nrtv20

iTrader: (9)

Combination of slop in the rack and all the ball ends. The ball ends seem to be pretty loose fitting on the balls so everyone has been switching to Tamiya ball cups as a remedy and shimming the rack accordingly.

dragracer72nova

iTrader: (114)

Hello,
I am looking to get two of the SpecR S-1 chassis to run in VTA. Just wondering how people are liking the chassis and are there any problems they are having with them. I will be only running on an indoor carpet track with these cars.
Thank you for the help
Dave

.crispy

Car works great for carpet VTA. Easy to setup. Easy to drive. Everyone at my track has marveled at the jump in my performance (due to the car).

I've had two of the "Sport" drive shafts break on me. I recommend upgrading them in the front. Also, I would upgrade the to the aluminum steering rack. I've also got the gear diff in front.

All in all, great car.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Dave - I have two S1 chassis, one setup for my clubs GT2 class (17.5 blinky) with a few upgrades and a second box stock for VTA (21.5 blinky). I'm finding that these chassis are pretty much dialed right out of the box using the kit setup, kit springs, oil and diff fluid. Spool in front and gear diff rear as stock.

They don't give droop settings though and I'm using 4 front / 6 rear using the Associated droop gauge. I run Sorex 28R tires indoors on carpet for my GT2 and of course the HPI Vintage rims and tires for VTA per the rules.

dragracer72nova

iTrader: (114)

Thank you for getting back with me on the info.
Dave

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

Again, Toe is a cornerspeed killer, so I would like to minimize it in the rear and in the front as possible. You can also shorten your upper-arms in the rear. Most of setups are using the exterior link hole on the wheel side. That's also a cornerspeed killer, try the interior link, you will feel the difference immediately (the car is pivoting more)

By the way I can see that this car (S1/R1) is very appreciated for USVTA classes, is there anybody who's running bigger motor classes?

Bappe

i have ran my r1 in 17.5 boosted stock, not sure if i will run stock or mod after the summer

here in sweden the slowest stock class is 17.5 blinky.

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

+ YouTube Video

Hope you guys like the figure at 0:50...

Hars

iTrader: (5)

I'm running a S1 in VTA and a R1 in 21.5 blinky - what would you recommend I set the toe? I am guessing the box setup is for a much faster motor...

Hars

iTrader: (5)

Is anyone else breaking a lot of parts on this car?

Granted I am a n00b, but I am breaking way too many parts from relatively soft crashes. After reading this thread about people launching the car 4ft in the air into a wall and no damage I bought this car thinking it would be good for a crappy n00b driver. I'm running 21.5 blinky so it's not like I'm going fast!

So far:

3 C hubs
1 steering knuckle
1 spool outdrive

From 2 race meets.

It's about 12 C / 53 F at the track at the moment as we are coming into winter. Perhaps the plastics dont like the cold?

Do the xray C hubs fit on the R1? Are the outer pivot pins the same size? I may change them out and see how I go. I'll also get the spring steel outdrives for the spool.

Another problem I have is with the centering. If I tap the wall it seems to throw the center off and I have to adjust the trim mid-race to get it to go straight again. Very VERY annoying. I'll get the Tamiya ballcups and see if it makes any difference.

Here's the weird bit: I haven't broken a single thing on the S1 I bought for VTA and that car kisses the wall a hell of a lot more than the R1. The S1 has no problem centering either.

EDIT: I just thought: perhaps it's the fact I am not running a servo saver. I'm running it direct with a aluminium servo horn. Bad idea?

Fuzzi0n

Hars, it seems to be either extreme from what I've seen. Either people cant break anything or everything breaks on contact with a feather, lot of things can affect it though so it's hard to say what it is in your case, well other than hitting stuff.

Xray stuff should fit fine, I haven't tried it though so don't take my word 100%. As for your centering issue, make sure the rack has no play, nor is there any sort of play in the suspension. It may be partially due to the ballcups, I changed over to the Tamiya ones and it seemed tighten the car up in general, but in a good way. If you're running the stock servo mounts the servo could be moving around slightly, my one did even when I tightened it up. I'd recommend trying the floating servo mount if you don't have it, it's pretty solid. Running without a servo saver is fine, as long as you don't hit the boards hard, if you hit stuff I'd suggesting running one or you'll go through servo gear sets like crazy.

justxroro

iTrader: (2)

I have the same centering issue. What servo are you using? I skimped on the servo (savox 0254) and thought that was the problem, but possibly not. I ordered tamiya ballcups as well. Keep us posted with your progress, I suspect we're not the only ones with the centering issue.

Hars

iTrader: (5)

I think I will order the xray parts and see if that at least makes things a bit more durable, 2 race meets and unable to finish a race is pretty frustrating!

Will do mate. I didn't skimp on the servo (savox 1251) so it's gotta be the ball cups and perhaps the steering assembly. Will take it apart and rebuild it with the tamiya balls cups and see if that solves it. Trimming during a race is near on impossible!

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

If you're bumping enough to break things, you should definitely get a saver on there. It sounds like what you're experiencing isn't a failure to center, but rather the center changing on you after hits. Simple slop would make the car sloppy around center, but it'd always go basically straight. If the center is moving, causing you to adjust trim, you should be looking at things like the servo horn skipping teeth, the servo mounts shifting, ball cups skipping threads on the turnbuckles, the ball coming loose on the servo horn, or event the servo horn getting bent.

VTA tires are big and squishy compared to TC tires. The rims are also wider, so the axle doesn't stick out past the rim. If your axles are sticking out past the rim, they might be catching the barriers making your break more. You can dremel them down so they don't stick out so far past the wheel nuts.

EDIT: Just noticed you're using a Savox 1251. They are ALL metal gears, and so they can break pretty easily with an aluminum horn. I'd definitely get a saver on there. I don't think a partially-stripped gear would give you centering issues, though. I think it'd more likely be just complete failure to steer. Still, though, I'd open up that servo an inspect the gears for damage.

-Mike

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

@Hars: I think 2.0 could be a good idea if you have enough grip...

The plastic is very soft, that's very strange you break these parts on small crashes...

About the trim problem, are you using the aluminum centered servo mount? it is wider than a lot of servo and we also have problem with that, the servo moving laterally in the servo mount...

You have two solutions:
- You can use foam to prevent the servo to move
- You can use a longer screw on the battery side to hold the servo... But to do that you will need to have a metal body servo, at least if you don't want the screw to destroy the servo from the side...