Airwave

iTrader: (1)

Had the same problem with the diff... It seems that when the paper joint is new, it is too thick and the toric joint is useless... I've made some tests but actually I've chosen to mount the Spec-R Xray gear diff...

Plastic outputs are usual on spool, they have to be considered as wear parts. They are good for reasonable motors, like 10.5, but you should consider the spring steel option parts if you go with more powerful motor or if you are used to crash ^^

miles514

iTrader: (2)

Ive managed to eliminate some slop on the front end by drilling the outside pin hole of the front arms and the front c hub. before it is 2.5, now its 3mm. reason why is the hole where the pin resides is a bit loose, so there is slop. I have some 3mm pins lying around so I experimented. Dremel and a 3mm drillbit is my bestfriend here.

.crispy

Might be why there is a printed "Additional Remark" page with the manual in the box.

Says to use a 3mm arm reamer on the inner holes in the A-arm and a 2.5mm reamer on the outer holes and C-block.

Obviously, they found their tolerances were off.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

This past race, I managed to sheer off one of the spool outdrive cups, which took out one side of the pin on my nice CV universals. Luckily I had a spare cup and swapped back to the stock universals. I'm not sure when it happened, but I think it was after a pretty hard hit-and-roll. I feel bad for how much abuse I put this car through

On that note, I decided not to buy a new aluminum steering rack this season, but I was able to eliminate some of my steering column slop by shimming under the cross-member piece (where the servo turnbuckle attaches). I have 0.03 mm under one end, and 0.04 mm under the other (7mm shims I believe), right beneath the ball bearings. That made things a lot better. There is still slop around the main bearings (which ride on the aluminum posts), so I may try the CA glue trick there.

I'm also going to change wheel bearings for the new season, as those are sloppy from all the hits.

Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

Well guys, good weekend with my R1 during 3rd Stage of the MinituerkasRC Open Onroad Championship 2013.

Qualified in 2nd place (another R1 made the TQ) and on A-Mains got 1st place.

This is on 8.5 Blinky class. The guy on the other R1 abandoned due to electronics problems.

Very happy with the car so far ! :





I race 1/10 Nitro Sedan and GT Nitro classes too ... (won in 1/8 Nitro GT and in 1/10 electric touring, got 4th place on 1/10 Nitro Sedan).

regards,

Pit-racer

iTrader: (4)

Anyone have a good set-up for asphalt for the S1. Seems to be a lot of carpet set-ups

Bappe

have drilled several holes in the s1 chassi and dremeled it after the same shape as the cf chassi after the pic was taken to get to flex more

test fitted it to the car and its not perfectly flat, cant get the car untweaked so its going in the garbage..

funny thing is that when i fitted my dremeled cf chassi and cut topdeck the car had about the same flex, so will just test with the carbon chassi and topdecks.

too bad that the weather here is crap, will have to wait for a couple of weeks until its drivable here outdoor..

BajaSkidmark

Just about ready to put my R1 chassis on the track. I found the HPI vintage 5 spoke front rims rub on the spindle arms. Are there hex shims available for the wheel hubs to space the wheels out? I need about .1 mm to get the inside lip of the wheels to clear the spindle arms. I don't like the idea of using round shims between the hex wheel hubs and the rims.

.crispy

LOL. I've fought this battle recently.

I took some Traxxas grey hexes that are really long and ground them down (evenly) to get them to the width I wanted.

Fine line between getting the vintage wheels to clear and having enough axle left to put a nut on...

.1 mm of round shims won't affect anything. You'll still have enough hex depth in the wheel to not slip.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

On my S1 with the vintage HPI rims I added a simple round washer on each front axle to provide clearance. Not an issue and it works fine.

JayL

I run the tamiya 6mm alum hexes on my S1 VTA car

tak4

Hey guys, I'm looking for a cheap starter car for someone who may not stay in the hobby for long. Was wondering how good the S1 would be (asking here as there is no thread for it).

How drivable and durable is it? Any workmanship issues? Do you need to resetup the car after every crash (don't laugh the Sakura drove me wild on this issue). This will be a car for an absolute beginner so I need it to be as simple and as fun as it can be.

Bappe

the plastic in the car is ALOT better then the sakura, when i drove the sakura xi it was very fragile, broke 2 front arms and a casterblock and a steering hub on it in mild crashes, has never broken that many parts in a touringcar.

with the spec r i have broken a front bodypost, and the car has been driven more packs, and has been in harder crashes too.

in handling i never liked the sakura, was hard to get good balance in the car, either good steering and no rear traction or the opposite.
the spec r has a very good setup out of the box, very neutral and easy to drive,
has alot more potential imo

tak4

I know what you mean. The XI was horrible for me as well. Went through 3 chassis (due to tweaks) before finally thrashing it for a T3'12. Am driving the Eryx now. Really fun car the Eryx. But the S1 sounds like an amazing deal.

BajaSkidmark

I found some spacers at the LHS - Tamiya p/n 53646 Wheel Spacer (blue). They are aluminum washers in .5 and 1.0 mm thickness, anodized blue. 4 mm i.d., o.d. isjust smaller than the hex drive. Worked perfectly...