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Old 03-30-2013, 04:28 PM   #1261
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I ordered this part and hoping that it would solve the vibrating problem. Front spool gives a lot of stress to the front drivetrain that causes breakage.

And for the pin, I just tighten it just right, I mean not too tight, just merely touching the grabscrew to the center of the pin is enough




http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-t301-d...t-p-36126.html
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:35 PM   #1262
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Spec-R S1 running well no breakage but did have a wheel nut fall off. My asphalt vta is getting better. Went with lighter diff oil and gave a lil bit more droop in rear.
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:23 AM   #1263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miles514 View Post
I ordered this part and hoping that it would solve the vibrating problem. Front spool gives a lot of stress to the front drivetrain that causes breakage.

And for the pin, I just tighten it just right, I mean not too tight, just merely touching the grabscrew to the center of the pin is enough




http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-t301-d...t-p-36126.html
why dont u use spec-r ECS ?? it's more durable...
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:01 AM   #1264
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Originally Posted by MC112b View Post
Are you breaking the pin or splitting the hole that's in the drive shaft? Could this be a spool related issue?

Are the spendy Xray shafts worth the $$?
I'm running a front gear diff and they are breaking right here:

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Old 03-31-2013, 10:40 AM   #1265
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wierd! does it break because of that you crash or does it just break completely random?
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Old 03-31-2013, 12:03 PM   #1266
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wierd! does it break because of that you crash or does it just break completely random?
Both times it broke when I hadn't hit anything for a long time. This last time I was just going down the straight at full song while I was running third in the A-main.

Wheel comes off and you think "Okay, I lost a wheel nut", but nope, the end of the axle is still firmly attached to the wheel. I lost a wheel bearing this time too, but found it on the track.
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:07 AM   #1267
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Originally Posted by kschu View Post
why dont u use spec-r ECS ?? it's more durable...
The specR ECS is not listed at the RCmart. How about this one? but pricyer.

http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-sp...cPath=595_1576
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:59 AM   #1268
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i use the 3racing ssk shaft in front, they are holding up just fine

search for them on ebay
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:23 AM   #1269
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because of the stiffness of the std r1 chassi i turned on the dremel and worked off a little material from it, its still stiff!

will get the s1 chassi and topdeck in the mail tomorrow, looking forward to try it out

on the r1 chassi i have removed the little carbon piece between the 2 openings in the rear, extended the hole in the front and milled out between the 2 holes in the middle, its also narrowed down to 84mm wide

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Old 04-01-2013, 09:59 AM   #1270
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I can definitely tweak/bend the S1 chassis w/ top deck. Not easily but much. I like fiberglass because I don't feel bad if it gets damaged
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Old 04-01-2013, 12:33 PM   #1271
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Originally Posted by Bappe View Post
because of the stiffness of the std r1 chassi i turned on the dremel and worked off a little material from it, its still stiff!

will get the s1 chassi and topdeck in the mail tomorrow, looking forward to try it out

on the r1 chassi i have removed the little carbon piece between the 2 openings in the rear, extended the hole in the front and milled out between the 2 holes in the middle, its also narrowed down to 84mm wide

Wow, there is not a lot of chassis left! You made huge holes... How did it change the car's behavior on track?
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Old 04-01-2013, 01:44 PM   #1272
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i havent tested it as i did the cuts today

but the feeling on the table is that its got a little more flex with the steering brace on and all the screws in the topdeck, and alot more if i remove them, should be able to play a litle more with the handling due to flex in the chassi now, the car in standard form is very stiff, and look at for example yokomo bd7, xray t4, and even tamiya now with option chassis, all are running quite alot of flex so i want to test it on this car too. will also try s1 chassi and topdeck.
now the indoor season is over here in sweden so might not be so much tested before september/october, wil try some things outdoor but wont run it so much in the summer.

at the last race for the season i tried the b-spec topdeck vs the std topdeck, couldnt feel any difference due to the stiff std chassi, but did cut the front and rear bridge on the b topdeck to get just a little more flex, and the car went from being good to amazing, had so much more controll over it and could drive alot harder, this was on a high traction carpet track. most tracks i run on is low/med traction so i think that there is alot of things that can be done to get more traction out of the car
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Old 04-01-2013, 01:55 PM   #1273
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I finally have my R1 suspension and drivetrain complete, and starting to mount my electronics. When I use the rubber grommets for the servo mounting, these grommets rub on the drive belt. I am using a Savox SC-1252MG Low Profile Super Speed Metal Gear Digital Servo .07/97.2. Is it necessary to run the rubber grommets, or will the servo be okay with the vibration? I assumed that the mounting pattern for all servos were essentially the same and didn't think I would get this close to the drive belt.
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:22 PM   #1274
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Quote:
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Is it necessary to run the rubber grommets, or will the servo be okay with the vibration?
The servo rubber grommets are not used for R/C car installations.
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:47 PM   #1275
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The servo rubber grommets are not used for R/C car installations.
Thanks
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