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Old 10-04-2012, 10:20 AM   #106
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keep us posted, I am really excited on this!
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:06 AM   #107
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Car is done, minus electronics installation. Shocks are great. Easy to build, good quality, nothing to complain about here.

Body Post System/Front Bumper/Battery Mounting System:
9.5 out of 10-

If it had the floppy body post holders in the front, it would be perfect. However, the rear body stiffener is money! It not only presses in with clips, but uses a set-screw at the front to keep it from moving. The Front bumper is much like the other ones available in the market.

The battery mounting system is simple, yet effective. Personally, I would not run the velcro, but 99.9% of people out there would probably slap me for saying it. So, I think this being the first out-of-the-box system set up like this gives it extra points.
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:27 AM   #108
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I'm most curious about how it drives compared to Christian' RSD6.1 and his 417.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:16 PM   #109
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That, I won't be able to do for a while. This car is a prize for the Texas EOS finals, so I can't drive it. Once we get more in, I will build one and test it. I am super interested in running it as well.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:52 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
arms are a little tight on the suspension mounts, so I used some aluminum washers to free up the suspension.
I'm not picturing where the tightness is... Don't the arms have the wheelbase spacers and pivot balls between them and the suspension mounts?

Quote:
Caster blocks have a little bit of slop, but again, most cars do to.
Even with the set screws? Is the slop between the knuckle and the c-hub?


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Ball cups are so-so. They are free and fit well, but they are so hard that when you tighten the turnbuckle to the recommended lengths, the turnbuckles are not really adjustable, they just pop off when you try to turn them. Maybe threading the ballcups with a tap would be a good idea. Or simply using Tamiya ballcups.
I had that problem when I used some probably 1/8" turnbuckles on my Schui. I found that if I just worked the ballcup on turnbuckle vigorously, it would loosen up.

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One issue that I had was that since the plastic is so hard, I stripped a ball cup hex (they are aluminum) threading it in. I would recommend a 3mm tap to ensure easier threading.
Would pre-threading with an M3 screw help? Or is it that tight?


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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Car is done, minus electronics installation. Shocks are great. Easy to build, good quality, nothing to complain about here.
Did you build with kit bladders or yours?


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The Front bumper is much like the other ones available in the market.
I noticed it looks pretty similar to the T4, which people were being neurotic about its potential for chassis damage in a crash. Think it'll hold up?

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The battery mounting system is simple, yet effective. Personally, I would not run the velcro, but 99.9% of people out there would probably slap me for saying it. So, I think this being the first out-of-the-box system set up like this gives it extra points.
I noticed in the instructions, there are screws to support the battery on the inside. Is there any other adjustment for left/right/forward/backward cell position?

-Mike
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:10 PM   #111
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The tightness comes from the fact that the balls inside the inserts have to break in is my guess. I think that once it is run a couple of times it will free up nicely. Right now, the balls are a bit tight on the inserts.

Yes, it seems the slop comes from the hinge pin on the arm hole. They might be a little off spec. However it's not that bad.

Yes, tapping the holes into the plastic ball cups and plastic parts would definitely be helpful and recommended.

I used the kit bladders, however ours will work with the shocks.

Much like with the T4, the people that are neurotic about breaking it, would break any type of front bumper. In order to break a front bumper the collision would have to be very direct and very hard. My 417 has a bumper like this one and I have never really had trouble. However, is it weaker than a TC6 style bumper, sure! I don't think it's a deal breaker though.

The battery can be moved in and out, but not back and forth. We have been working on a new universal battery stop system that would work on this car, and most cars with tape slots, which also allows the battery to be moved fore and aft.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:27 PM   #112
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Sounds good, Cristian. I'm looking forward to seeing Jeff's when he gets it on the track.

-Mike
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:35 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
The tightness comes from the fact that the balls inside the inserts have to break in is my guess. I think that once it is run a couple of times it will free up nicely. Right now, the balls are a bit tight on the inserts.

Yes, it seems the slop comes from the hinge pin on the arm hole. They might be a little off spec. However it's not that bad.

Yes, tapping the holes into the plastic ball cups and plastic parts would definitely be helpful and recommended.

I used the kit bladders, however ours will work with the shocks.

Much like with the T4, the people that are neurotic about breaking it, would break any type of front bumper. In order to break a front bumper the collision would have to be very direct and very hard. My 417 has a bumper like this one and I have never really had trouble. However, is it weaker than a TC6 style bumper, sure! I don't think it's a deal breaker though.

The battery can be moved in and out, but not back and forth. We have been working on a new universal battery stop system that would work on this car, and most cars with tape slots, which also allows the battery to be moved fore and aft.
The car looks good...but I don't see any spare parts listed on your site. When will you have parts in stock? Just in case my LHS cannot support this car....
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:46 AM   #114
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any DJC for R1 ?
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:53 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mos-leung View Post
any DJC for R1 ?
I spoke to spec-R support and they said they would be out shortly with a full line of hop ups including DJCs.
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:28 AM   #116
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The DCJ's are probably going to be the same as the XRAY DCJ's. I believe they are using the same size dogbone ball.

Once parts are available, we will stock parts for the car.
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:26 PM   #117
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So of the people that have got the R1 has anyone tested it yet on track? I'm a bit surprised there has been no feedback as of yet.
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:55 PM   #118
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Still building mine, so far it's 80% done. my motor and servo should arrive this week and then I can test it Thursday.
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:57 PM   #119
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Quote:
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So of the people that have got the R1 has anyone tested it yet on track? I'm a bit surprised there has been no feedback as of yet.
My parent company Spec-R is now putting together videos of customers' R1s running on the track. Stay tuned. If anyone has technical question or issue with the car pls PM me.
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:28 PM   #120
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This car looks promising. Great price point and good features. This is a great way for someone getting started to get into a competive car without breaking the bank. Can't wait to see the performance of one of these at my track.
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