Fuzzi0n

Screw in the motor mount and a screw in the servo mount.

.crispy

I thought about it, but decided that I could spend less than $129 on the parts that I would likely need.

Since I dropped about $80 on spares, I haven't broken a thing...

Pit-racer

iTrader: (4)

Yes Johnny those screws and locations keep batt. off the belt. The only flaw I had was the stock servo arm was a piece, so I temporary replaced it with a metal arm until I find a small servo saver. I thought I read a xray servo saver works?

Johnnytc3

iTrader: (1)

Thanks I had them in there but didn't think that was the correct way coming from a TC6 with stoppers.

Johnnytc3

iTrader: (1)

I feel awkward not using a servo saver so I never even installed the stock arm. I am using the Kimbrough mid size w/holes. It looks like the Xray servo saver and Tamiya HD are common from what I remember in this thread.

Pit-racer

iTrader: (4)

I will look into them both. The drivetrain is smooth as you seen when you stopped by. I'll change set-up back to stock and start from there if I don't hear on here on a starting point.

bjanzen

iTrader: (6)

I thought that I would chime in...... yes the bolts keep the battery in place. It looks funny but works fine..

The Xray Xtra stiff servo saver works well with this car. We tried the Kimbrough and found it too soft to work right.

My buddy is running a R1 in VTA and has yet to break much of anything........ and he is rough on the car. I will add that he put an RPM TC3 bumper on it and has gone several months without any breaks.

On setup...... we started with the stock setup and added some shims to raise the rear roll center for VTA and swapped the AE springs....... green and silver. It has been a joy to race all season.

Hope this helps......

tiago890

iTrader: (8)

Has anyone tried using a different battery tray, one of those screws actually broke the corner of my hard case lipo. so just wondering if there is any better option other than the 2 screws.

Pe4atnik

I didn't like that screws and I took flat head with FH washers and put fuel tube under it. So we have much bigger spot of contact.
Sorry for my english...

Today we found that steering plates with small bearings differs greatly one to another. One - much play, another - no play at all.

PitNamedGordie

iTrader: (8)

Yes use a flat head screw and washer for a little more surface area. But I also use lead weight down the center which also holds the battery in place.

JayL

battery holder: I glued an old plastic nitro throttle servo arm under the belt to hold the battery

breaking driveshafts: just replace the drive shafts and front spool outdrives with xray parts and you are good to go and still saving money

Pe4atnik

I found specR steel spool cups on rcmart. But no info on specR.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

Managed to build a full driveshaft out of the three broken ones. Decided to buy parts instead of a full kit, it was the postage costs which swayed the decision, plus I'd have loads of bits I wouldn't need.

Replacing with Xray parts - I understand your point, but even if the Spec R S1 is a cheaper option, it still should be fit for purpose, and not need to have parts replaced every week. I hope that the car settles down and I don't have to keep spending to replace broken parts, or I will start to regret buying the cars.

.crispy

Which driveshafts are you breaking? The black "Sport" model or the gold spring steel upgraded ones?

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1744

I broke a stock shaft and replaced it with these. No problems since.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

It's the stock Sport ones - I know they're cheaper but they still should hold up. I still think its the lack of movement in the spool and the driveshaft is taking the hit. Hopefully when the new gear diff arrives it will cure the problem.