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Old 02-21-2013, 04:46 AM   #991
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Indulge me please...

So if I understand this issue correctly..., without some type of shimming, either flanged bearing, these new longer bushings or plain ole shims the spur gear rubs on the top deck correct? I can imagine that with shorter bushings and no shims, there must be a fair amount of slop in there.



But you're saying that these new bushings are too long for some spurs? Can't I just take some material off these bushings with my dremel grinding wheel?

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Old 02-21-2013, 06:38 AM   #992
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This is what I did, if I run a wide spur I can change, add or remove spacers. No need to dremel if you still have the black kit spacers.
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:43 AM   #993
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I didn't realize how bad that picture is! I just used some spacers on the shaft to take up the excess space.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:52 PM   #994
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Its been said earlier on in this thread not sure which page but others have just taken off material from the bushings like you said.
Im running the sandard spur with those white bushings and i felt it was a little to tight and had to take some off to begin with"i could feel the balls in the bearings" so it was smooth
Funny thing is I ended up measuring the flanged bearings and standard bushings to get the distance feeling right with those white ones.


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Originally Posted by .crispy View Post
Indulge me please...

So if I understand this issue correctly..., without some type of shimming, either flanged bearing, these new longer bushings or plain ole shims the spur gear rubs on the top deck correct? I can imagine that with shorter bushings and no shims, there must be a fair amount of slop in there.



But you're saying that these new bushings are too long for some spurs? Can't I just take some material off these bushings with my dremel grinding wheel?

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Old 02-21-2013, 02:37 PM   #995
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Well, guess what I ended up doing? I used the black bushing on one side and the white bushing on the other with my Kmbrough spur and it works perfect!

Here's another problem... I'm using a gear diff in front and the bearing/spacer part was so wide that when dropped down in the mounts the bearings were all bound up. I sanded down the spacer on the LF and then it drops right in and the diff spins nicely.
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:19 AM   #996
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Originally Posted by SpecRC View Post
Its been said earlier on in this thread not sure which page but others have just taken off material from the bushings like you said.
Im running the sandard spur with those white bushings and i felt it was a little to tight and had to take some off to begin with"i could feel the balls in the bearings" so it was smooth
Funny thing is I ended up measuring the flanged bearings and standard bushings to get the distance feeling right with those white ones.
Hello

I ended up running the White bushings with one wheel spacer ( the one that goes between the two bearings in the hub ), on the right side of the sour shaft if your looking at the car from behind. That gave me a very small amount of movement on the shaft and the two belts now run in the middle of front spool and rear gear diff.
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:50 AM   #997
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That was not an easy build. Let's hope it runs better than my TC4 and makes it all worthwhile. I'm still worried about my spur assembly rubbing on my top brace and my rear diff is flinging oil...

A couple notes I'll share to make part of the permanent record.

I found a couple errors in the manual. On page six of the S1 manual it shows a picture of a 3mmx6 button head but says 3mmx8, and indeed that's what you should use.

Also when building the front suspension arm the layout shows them as they go in both the build and installation picture. But when you do the rear arms the arms are flipped over from the build picture to the install picture. And that makes the droop screw in the wrong place.

It would be nice in the manual if they mention why you're putting those 3mmx12 button heads in the servo mount and the one by the motor. A simple "these will keep your battery from sliding inward later on" would do wonders...

My biggest issue was that my steering link rod was not threaded on one side! Yup, that one got through the Chinese machine shop QA. Luckily I had something that will work.

Changing out pinions on this sucker sure ain't easy.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:20 AM   #998
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Changing out pinions on this sucker sure ain't easy.
Really? I don't have any problems with changing pinions - there's a hole in the chassis for it. If you run the pinion the other way around you can usually access it through the top deck too.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:24 AM   #999
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about the spurgear assembly, just buy some 5mm shims and use the black std bushings

i found the build quite easy, just pay attention to the manual, and about the droop screws in the arms you just have to look at the arms and chassi when you build it, never just look at the manual.. (done that mistake many times before myself)

the car will easily outperform your tc4 in terms of handling
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:37 AM   #1000
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Really? I don't have any problems with changing pinions - there's a hole in the chassis for it. If you run the pinion the other way around you can usually access it through the top deck too.
Well, that's nice to know about that hole!
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:51 AM   #1001
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This car looks promising. The only thing that's holding me back from getting one is the gear diff. I've had numerous spec-r gear diff for my tcx back when I still had the car. They leak like a mother... It seems like it's a hit and miss with spec-r quality, gear diff wise.

Any alternatives other than the stock one?
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:07 AM   #1002
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This car looks promising. The only thing that's holding me back from getting one is the gear diff. I've had numerous spec-r gear diff for my tcx back when I still had the car. They leak like a mother... It seems like it's a hit and miss with spec-r quality, gear diff wise.

Any alternatives other than the stock one?
Sand both halfs off the diff until they fit properly, then use some green slime on either half and put a load on the oring, should be totally leak free then.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:10 AM   #1003
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i consider to change to a xray diff in my car, the leaking diff is the only part that i dont like with the car

my diff is leaking because of the mouldings are uneven (just like the early tc6 gear diffs)
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Old 02-22-2013, 01:55 PM   #1004
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Sand both halfs off the diff until they fit properly, then use some green slime on either half and put a load on the oring, should be totally leak free then.
+1
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Old 02-22-2013, 02:03 PM   #1005
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i consider to change to a xray diff in my car, the leaking diff is the only part that i dont like with the car

my diff is leaking because of the mouldings are uneven (just like the early tc6 gear diffs)
When you assemble the diff take note if there is a slight gap between the two halfs. Mine had this gap and was a easy fix to just sand down the male side until you cant see light through them. Basically if u see light the oil o ring isnt sealing against the two halfs so it cant make a seal.
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