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Old 02-08-2013, 09:43 AM   #931
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Originally Posted by performula View Post
I'm very interested in the S1 to get back into electric and RC. I have read this thread from the front to back.

My question is what budget combo/or pieces should I get for the ESC/BL Motor and what batteries?
Depends what class you want to run in as to what electronics you're going to run. I'd recommend checking out some of the packs that Speed Passion do anyway, they're good value. Batteries, Nano-Techs, EAM's packs or SMC's packs are all good options.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:00 AM   #932
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Originally Posted by Fuzzi0n View Post
Depends what class you want to run in as to what electronics you're going to run. I'd recommend checking out some of the packs that Speed Passion do anyway, they're good value. Batteries, Nano-Techs, EAM's packs or SMC's packs are all good options.
Touring classes near me run 13.5, 17.5, and Mod. I might not race. I raced for about three years and I did not enjoy the set-up vs. race time. We'll see.

But I was looking for a set-up I could potentially race with.
Motor?
ESC?
Battery?
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:19 AM   #933
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what wheel and tires are being used with this kit?
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:13 AM   #934
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Originally Posted by jeff jenkins View Post
I'm not sure what you mean by xp and xr.
On the swing shafts there is writing on them silver or grey.The ones that came with the second generation kit with the bearings in all (SPR001-XR2) have written spec-r XP and the ones that bind & don't fit read spec-r XR
They both seem to belong to the version 2
I'm trying to figure out what part # for a spare swing shaft version 2 that comes with the kit for X ray & Spec R that works.
The spare part of SPR001-SXR2 in not the right one it binds and has a differant writting on it
Thxs
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Last edited by chef88; 02-08-2013 at 11:37 AM.
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:40 PM   #935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performula View Post
Touring classes near me run 13.5, 17.5, and Mod. I might not race. I raced for about three years and I did not enjoy the set-up vs. race time. We'll see.

But I was looking for a set-up I could potentially race with.
Motor?
ESC?
Battery?
I'd suggest looking at Speed Passions Reventon Pro combo's - they have a number of them and they're a good price for a high end ESC with a very good motor. Something like this would be good if you wanted to run 17.5 for instance. Really up to you which class you want to race though. If you end up running blinky you could save a bit and buy a lower end ESC. If you get a good ESC, you can always buy a few different motors down the line.

For the battery, any of the three that I listed in my previous post are a good choice, with SMC and EAM's packs being the ones to go for - they are well regarded on here, tons of power throughout a run and they're well priced too.
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:19 PM   #936
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New R1 options have arrived.

FYI, Thanks.
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:35 PM   #937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k4mp4q View Post
Thanks airwave,
Just 1 more question....lets say I want to make my rear car 3.5 toe in... I'm going to use rr 2 out and rf 3 out... Is that mean the track wide will be wider by 2.2 + 1.4 = 3.6.....
Is that correct?

Thanks
I also find this system a little bit strange, because actually, the offset is defined in not in mm...

On my TCXX, you can use +1.0 FR and the FF is calculated by retiring 1 of the printed value...

On the R1, you can see that when you add 0.5 you add ~0.75mm (that's a supposition because plastic blocks are not very precise...). The width of the train is usually defined by the FR and the RF blocks (but you're right, it should be something like (FF+FR)/2 and (RF+RR/2) because the wheel is fixed in the middle of the arm...)

Another important thing: If you use neutral blocks (4) you will have 0 in the front but already 3 in the rear, the RR block is wider than the FF block.

So now, you ask for 3.5 in the rear:
- With RF=3IN and RR=4 you will have 3.5 toe and no offset.
- With RF=4 and RR = 3OUT you will have 3.5 toe and +0.7mm (0.5) offset
- With RF=3OUT and RR = 2OUT you will have 3.5 toe and +1.5mm (0.5) offset
- etc...

Are you ok with that? What kind of effect are you looking after widening the rear train?
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:42 PM   #938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airwave View Post
I also find this system a little bit strange, because actually, the offset is defined in not in mm...

On my TCXX, you can use +1.0 FR and the FF is calculated by retiring 1 of the printed value...

On the R1, you can see that when you add 0.5 you add ~0.75mm (that's a supposition because plastic blocks are not very precise...). The width of the train is usually defined by the FR and the RF blocks (but you're right, it should be something like (FF+FR)/2 and (RF+RR/2) because the wheel is fixed in the middle of the arm...)

Another important thing: If you use neutral blocks (4) you will have 0 in the front but already 3 in the rear, the RR block is wider than the FF block.

So now, you ask for 3.5 in the rear:
- With RF=3IN and RR=4 you will have 3.5 toe and no offset.
- With RF=4 and RR = 3OUT you will have 3.5 toe and +0.7mm (0.5) offset
- With RF=3OUT and RR = 2OUT you will have 3.5 toe and +1.5mm (0.5) offset
- etc...

Are you ok with that? What kind of effect are you looking after widening the rear train?
Well I was trying to set my front toe out 0,5* and back toe in 3* but since I have only have a set of suspension mount so I have to change according what I have in stock.....

Now what I want is to try widening the car by using this suspension mount instead of adding shim on the hex wheel....since I have to much traction on the car resulting traction roll

Thanks
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:05 PM   #939
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Do wheels and tires come with either kit?
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:38 PM   #940
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Just ordered a S kit kit for Texas EOS VTA races. What other items should I get besides the sway bar kit and the floating servo holder?
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:42 PM   #941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performula View Post
Do wheels and tires come with either kit?
No, wheels/tyres/inserts aren't included.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pit-racer View Post
Just ordered a S kit kit for Texas EOS VTA races. What other items should I get besides the sway bar kit and the floating servo holder?
Tamiya ballcups, flanged 5x8x2.5mm bearings for the spur pulleys, alloy hexes.
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:43 PM   #942
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Spur gears. It comes with a 48p 84 tooth, which is way too big. My LHS doesn't have much in 48p, so I ended up getting a 100/47 64p combo just to get me going until I can place another online order.
And, either another pair of 5x8x2.5mm flanged bearings for the spur carrier, or the longer MUP bushings.
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:11 PM   #943
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What's a good gear combo for 13.5T, medium to large track?
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:04 AM   #944
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Hey guys, I was looking at getting an R1 kit. Not the S1. I had a couple questions regarding durability of the car. How does it fair compared to say a tamiya or an xray? Also, what are some spares I should get plenty of right of the start. And what are the options parts I should get other then the floating servo mount?

Thanks!!
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:11 AM   #945
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i have around 2.5h runtime in my r1 and havent broken a part yet, and there has been some really hard crashes.

as for spares i dont know, but the regular stuff, arms and hubs are always good to have in the box

when it comes to optionparts you should buy new ballcups, i use tamiyas. the std ones are too hard and you cant adjust the turnbuckles without them popping off
flanged bearings for the layshaft (dont have the size)
the floating servomount is really nice too

other than that its just down to setup likings, i have ditched the std springs for yokomo pink/blue, but the std ones works really good too
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