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Old 01-21-2013, 10:07 AM   #811
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Bad phone pics of my Spec-R build.
Cant figure out what i did wrong with battery strap but i have to fold it over itself.



Bought the body painted - i think they did a great job.
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:50 AM   #812
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Bad phone pics of my Spec-R build.
Cant figure out what i did wrong with battery strap but i have to fold it over itself.
You didn't do anything wrong with the battery strap, they were just assembled incorrectly. I have a R1 and a S1 kit and both straps were assembled incorrectly, had to buy new straps or use tape.
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:29 PM   #813
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Well, I couldn't resist. Despite just having just built my TC6.1wc, something about this car I just could not say no to. I popped on a R1 and a S1. Going to use the S1 for parts. We race in a parking lot with low to medium grip asphalt so I plan on using the S1 chassis/top deck in the build for more flex

They were out of Tamiya ball cups though so I might just try the stock ball cups and drill them out.

Thanks for all your help guys.

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Old 01-21-2013, 04:41 PM   #814
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Default Diff shimming

Ok so i'm looking at some shims for the gear diff:

http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=161

Now this 0.1mm shim with a diameter of 8mm with a 4mm hole so its smaller than the original kit .2mm shim.
Would you put that under or over the original bigger 12mm shim?
I ask because would it get in the way or hurt the xring because of its size? Or could it affect the bevel gear because there isnt enough diameter in the shim for the gear to rest on?

I believe this is the standard 0.2mm shim:

http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=162

I'm looking to remove 0.3mm play, Is there any advantage to using 3x 0.1mm or 1x 0.2mm and a 0.1mm shim.

Help is greatly appreciated
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:56 PM   #815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnytc3 View Post
Well, I couldn't resist. Despite just having just built my TC6.1wc, something about this car I just could not say no to. I popped on a R1 and a S1. Going to use the S1 for parts. We race in a parking lot with low to medium grip asphalt so I plan on using the S1 chassis/top deck in the build for more flex

They were out of Tamiya ball cups though so I might just try the stock ball cups and drill them out.

Thanks for all your help guys.

I will be watching you and your R1. Need to find something to replace my HPI Pro4
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:41 PM   #816
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I will be watching you and your R1. Need to find something to replace my HPI Pro4

Just buy one already
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:28 AM   #817
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hello

buy the car boys, its great.

have just fitted some t-shocks to try will keep you informed.
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:15 AM   #818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpecRC View Post
Ok so i'm looking at some shims for the gear diff:

http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=161

Now this 0.1mm shim with a diameter of 8mm with a 4mm hole so its smaller than the original kit .2mm shim.
Would you put that under or over the original bigger 12mm shim?
I ask because would it get in the way or hurt the xring because of its size? Or could it affect the bevel gear because there isnt enough diameter in the shim for the gear to rest on?

I believe this is the standard 0.2mm shim:

http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=162

I'm looking to remove 0.3mm play, Is there any advantage to using 3x 0.1mm or 1x 0.2mm and a 0.1mm shim.

Help is greatly appreciated
Can someone lend some insight here?

Last edited by SpecRC; 01-23-2013 at 03:33 AM.
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Old 01-23-2013, 12:35 PM   #819
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Can someone lend some insight here?
Where is the .3mm of play?

-Mike
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Old 01-23-2013, 02:12 PM   #820
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Its on the output shafts. So between the shim and the pin there is slight play. Im wondering where to put the shims that arent slightly the same diameter and will it matter since ive got them now.
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:51 PM   #821
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Out of curiosity, I decided to see if the tc6 (my other tc that I keep lots of spares for) steering block bushings were compatible with the S1. The overall height, 5mm, is dead on. The tc6 measure out at .003 OD thinner, but are .005 thinner ID. So you'll have a bit of play where the bushing meets the block, but far less play where the bushing meets the screw/ball stud. If you're in a pinch, go for it. I will.
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:31 PM   #822
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Originally Posted by SpecRC View Post
Its on the output shafts. So between the shim and the pin there is slight play. Im wondering where to put the shims that arent slightly the same diameter and will it matter since ive got them now.
On the Spec-R Schui diffs, we put the smaller diameter shims on the outside of the diff case, between the case and the outdrive, to take up that slack. If you put more shims under the large gear, it might make the gear mesh too tight.

I have no experience with the R1 diff, though.

-Mike
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:01 AM   #823
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same for the r1 diff, shim on the outside
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:52 AM   #824
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Hi all,

Just finished my build and have a couple of issues - can you help?

1. The gear diff keeps on leaking, I haven't even run the car and the oil leaks out from the join between the two halves. I have replaced the gasket and oring and used green slime on the oring but no luck. Could I be over tightening the screws? any ideas?

2. There is a huge amount of play in the steering crank - its crap - It seems like the posts are too long (through the chassis) and both the cranks wobble up and down meaning I can grab the steering link and move it up and down 2-3mm and left to right 2-3mm. Is this normal??? Compared to my TC6 its way too much play.

I also had the bad velcro battery tape, missing caster blocks, missing screws and missing ball ends in the box seems like I got a lemon...

Gary
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:23 AM   #825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazmanster View Post
Hi all,

Just finished my build and have a couple of issues - can you help?

1. The gear diff keeps on leaking, I haven't even run the car and the oil leaks out from the join between the two halves. I have replaced the gasket and oring and used green slime on the oring but no luck. Could I be over tightening the screws? any ideas?

2. There is a huge amount of play in the steering crank - its crap - It seems like the posts are too long (through the chassis) and both the cranks wobble up and down meaning I can grab the steering link and move it up and down 2-3mm and left to right 2-3mm. Is this normal??? Compared to my TC6 its way too much play.

I also had the bad velcro battery tape, missing caster blocks, missing screws and missing ball ends in the box seems like I got a lemon...

Gary
R1 or S1?

What weight of oil are you using in the diff? How much oil did you put in the diff when you assembled it?

Take some pics of the steering rack also...
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