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Old 01-14-2013, 08:33 AM   #766
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Originally Posted by k4mp4q View Post
Hi Guys...

I'm finally pull the triger on purchasing this car...

Anyway i'll be using it for this coming TITC Race on february...
I'll be going to play 13.5 open brushless...

So any of you guys have a good setup for the start on this layout...

Thanks
I would recommend the setup I just posted . If it has too much roll for you just shorten the upper links and you will get some more response.back. It's a very easy to drive setup.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:44 AM   #767
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Jeff,

I see that over time your setups have seemed to increase the thickness of the rear oil in the gear diff; have you tried running the Spec-R solid rear diff insert? I ask for two reasons, one is I can’t build the rear diff to hold oil at all but I see there is a version 2 gasket I want to try and the other reason is when exiting a corner if I get on the throttle quickly the car wants to keep turning coming out of the corner, going from 500 to 1000 to 5000 has helped but just curious on your thoughts?

Thanks for your help in advanced - Nick
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:57 AM   #768
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Jeff,

I see that over time your setups have seemed to increase the thickness of the rear oil in the gear diff; have you tried running the Spec-R solid rear diff insert? I ask for two reasons, one is I canít build the rear diff to hold oil at all but I see there is a version 2 gasket I want to try and the other reason is when exiting a corner if I get on the throttle quickly the car wants to keep turning coming out of the corner, going from 500 to 1000 to 5000 has helped but just curious on your thoughts?

Thanks for your help in advanced - Nick
Also, I've always used grease in diffs, is this an option or should I use the 5000 oil ? I've bought 2 S1 cars, 1 for me and 1 for my son.

Anything I need to look out for when we build the cars ? Do Xray spur gears fit the S1 ? I have quite a few of these.

Thanks
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:13 AM   #769
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I prefer the consistancy of silicone oil over grease. But I do not want to lock the rear up as then I would have poor steering unless I steer with the throttle. But to stop the leaking take apart your diff and wash it real good with soap and hot water . Then let it dry and cool off. Then where your xrings go heavily coat that are of the cases with associated green slime. Also tighten the case down so it compresses the outer oring seal really good. And you should be good. The car already comes with all the v2 parts.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:34 AM   #770
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Maybe I'm not tightening the diff case enough, I'd rather use oil as well if I can get it to stay in there!
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:05 AM   #771
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Maybe I'm not tightening the diff case enough, I'd rather use oil as well if I can get it to stay in there!
Make sure its tight and make sure you do the screws up evenly. Also I'd really recommend using a lot of Green Slime on the o ring and around the edge of the diff where the two sides meet, you shouldn't have any issues then. Thicker oil might help too, I'd have thought 5000 would take a lot more time to do anything than 1000 would.

I rebuilt my one and found it leaked afterwards, despite not doing it originally, when I rebuilt it again I just used a ton of Green Slime and really made sure I did it up properly, no issues since.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:29 PM   #772
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Default R1 Set-up

hi Gents,

i have just finsihed building my R1 and was wondering if you could give me a set-up to use on an medium grip Asphalt service.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:51 PM   #773
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I would recommend the setup I just posted . If it has too much roll for you just shorten the upper links and you will get some more response.back. It's a very easy to drive setup.
Thanks Jeff...

But your setting is for carpet.... will it be the same with the ashpal setup?

And will you going to titc?
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:58 PM   #774
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Should still work
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:07 PM   #775
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Here's my S1 running on Reventon R with Ballistic high RPM 10.5, TRF shocks and Audi R8 shell.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:25 PM   #776
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TITC is so much of a different track and event that a conventional set up really won't work....
My absolute best advice would be look at what the Tamiya set ups are like and go from there....

And to the person that asked, no Xray spurs do not fit.
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:47 AM   #777
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TITC is so much of a different track and event that a conventional set up really won't work....
My absolute best advice would be look at what the Tamiya set ups are like and go from there....
Thanks Luke...

What about your asphal base setup.... is that good enough to start on that...

And can you post your aeration shocks ....what is that? what is the different with the oil shock..

Thanks
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:29 AM   #778
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Hiya,

I'm not too sure my asphalt set up will be of much use tbh, again it's such a unique race it's a tricky one to advise on.

To be honest I've ditched the aeration dampers now, they just didn't feel like an advantage on track,

but the basic idea is;
Drill a small hole in the shock top
Thread the hole with a small set screw from the hinge pins to the AE tc6 arms.
That screw will be the bleed screw.
Then I epoxy the shock top to the shock cap to be sure it's sealed.
Once that's set, either trim the std shock bladder, or get the correct sized o ring and use that as a seal.

Hope that makes sense to everyone lol
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:48 PM   #779
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Hey guys,
Im building my gear diff and notice about .2mm and .4mm play on the out shafts after shimms are in. Is this ok? Or should i try to get a .2mm extra shim to remove the play.
Is it bad if i run with the play? Cause it could be hard to find the right shim

Also did you guys green slime your diff gasket?

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Old 01-15-2013, 07:22 PM   #780
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How durable is this car?

I am about to place and order for a couple S1s to mess around with and from what I am reading, should get the following right away:

1)Tamiya ball cups
2)Aluminum hexes
3)Roll bars
3)Diff gear gasket version 2??
4)5x8x?? Flanged bearing for the lay shaft

What spare parts should I get? It seems like the only thing that are breaking are shock caps from what I read?
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