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Old 11-30-2012, 07:44 AM   #466
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LOL, he says it's the R1 build he did.

The S1 build hasn't started yet.
oops my bad. I thought the picture on the right was the S1.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:22 AM   #467
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See my review:
Spec-R R1

It covers pretty much everything you asked for. It's the S1 review but it's the same for the R1 for the most part.

Only must have's IMO is:
Protek R/C Ceramic 5x8x2.5mm Metal Shielded Flanged "Speed" Ball Bearings (2)[PTK-MF85ZZC] These can be found at amainhobbies.com

.2, and .3mm Shims. these need to be 3x5x.2 shims to fit M3 size screws. No real part numbers I know of. I use these:

http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-Stai...cs_p_1254.html

Other than that there are no "Must have" items. The bearings I listed fix the lay shaft issues with the kit's included shims. The .2MM shims will fix the slop in the steering rack and chubs if you are really worried about it. You may want to find some .1MM shims in the same size just in case your kit is tighter than mine.
Thanks!

- these fit without problems/alterations? http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=322
- what about drilling the holes in the shock pistons?
- drilling the shock caps? (for example 1mm)
- on petit rc it is said to use anti wear grease. I really don't know which one. Maybe you have a partnumber?
- other fine tuning issues?
(gonna get me TA green slime for the geardiff and the shocks)

Thanks again.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:51 AM   #468
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.2, and .3mm Shims. these need to be 3x5x.2 shims to fit M3 size screws. No real part numbers I know of. I use these:

http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-Stai...cs_p_1254.html

The .2MM shims will fix the slop in the steering rack and chubs if you are really worried about it. You may want to find some .1MM shims in the same size just in case your kit is tighter than mine.
Speedtech RC carries the Tamiya 3mm shim kits, which include .1, .2, and .3 mm. Also, Atomic makes a similar kit that you can get, I think, from HKS Hobby.

-Mike
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:22 AM   #469
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Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Thanks!

- these fit without problems/alterations? http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=322
- what about drilling the holes in the shock pistons?
- drilling the shock caps? (for example 1mm)
- on petit rc it is said to use anti wear grease. I really don't know which one. Maybe you have a partnumber?
- other fine tuning issues?
(gonna get me TA green slime for the geardiff and the shocks)

Thanks again.
- these fit without problems/alterations?
Yes, those DCJ's fit without modification, they are what I'm currently using.

- what about drilling the holes in the shock pistons?

Drilling the pistons isn't necessary. the kit gives you two and three hole pistons and the three hole seem to be working perfectly at my local track. they are 1.1mm holes I think. It's really personal preference and any standard 10mm piston should work. I use the RSD Soft shock bladders as they are more consistent than the stock Spec-R units and just seem to react better.

http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-10mm...ers_p_528.html

- drilling the shock caps? (for example 1mm)

Drilling the shock cap is only if you want zero rebound. I used the shock rebound tool and put it on the lowest setting and did not drill the caps, they seem fine and very consistent and this is largely personal preference, track surface and driving style oriented.

- on petit rc it is said to use anti wear grease. I really don't know which one. Maybe you have a partnumber?
Anti-wear grease is something along the lines of associated black thrust bearing grease. Associated P/N: ASC6588]
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ack-Grease-4cc

- other fine tuning issues?

Green slime, also known as SF3 grease, is always a good idea. I also heard a tip that Kyosho ORG03 P3 Orange O-rings are much better preventing shock "Squeak".. I'm trying them out but didn't get to race last night on them due to poor conditions. (never buy Green slime from associated! it's a HUGE rip off! a tub of the EXACT SAME grease that is 300X the amount of a single tube of green slime is only $5.Link below)

Xray drive train components work in this car just fine, the spool in the front is the same size so if you want a slightly better quality spool you can buy the X-ray unit. but really I see no point as it's slightly heavier and you'll not break the spec-R spool if you remember to put the screws in it unlike some joker on here . I picked up some of the xray spring steel drive cups for my spool, they are a direct fit to the Spec-R spool. The gear dif is bulletproof so don't mess with that, just make sure you polish the spacers and the backs of the gears to get it silky smooth. (Don't sand, POLISH with 2000 grit, wet it down, put it on some glass and rub the gear flatly against the sandpaper on the glass. not removing material so much as making it shine. The shims when I'm done are quite reflective, almost like a mirror and the backs of the gears are ultra slick. I use some super fine sand paper I found that is like 3500 grit used for wet sanding a finial finish on a cars paint job to give it that mirror like shine. )

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...g-P3-Orange-10
http://shop.noleenj6.com/product.sc?productId=8
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Last edited by Xenolance; 11-30-2012 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:58 PM   #470
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Speedtech RC carries the Tamiya 3mm shim kits, which include .1, .2, and .3 mm. Also, Atomic makes a similar kit that you can get, I think, from HKS Hobby.

-Mike
These are the ones?

http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...lter_name=shim kit&product_id=214

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...lutch-Shim-Set


http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-Bearings-2
Are these instead of the spur gear shaft bushing SPR-R1P310?
If so, then two are needed? Do these wear down fast? I mean should I buy more than one set of two?

Last edited by Kensei; 11-30-2012 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:02 PM   #471
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Originally Posted by Luke Hobson View Post
Ok, so my car turned up finally after sitting in customs for over a week :-/

Built it yesterday, no major concerns at all apart from as jeff mentioned, the layshaft is miles off with regards to shimming, I must have measured about 1.2mm extra endfloat. But that is easily shimmed out, or in my case I think I'm just going to make up some new bushes that the layshaft sits in to take up the slack.
Also the hubs with the top hats feel like they needed a shim in too.. Like you have on the TCX etc between the top hat and the c hub.

I too had to add 0.1mm spacers to the upper bulkheads to avoid pinching.

Basically the car went together very simply, just be sure to have some of the correct sized shims available when you do the build.

All in all a nice piece of kit and I can't wait to give it a run in the next few weeks.

Pictures of unboxing and build in my blog link below
On Petit RC I see your measurements and it says "Car inc shell - 1314.4".
Which LiPo and what does it weigh?
Can't seem to find that info in your specifications.
Would a 5400mAh LiPo be sufficient for 13.5T and SP Cirtix ESC?
Only reason why I would opt for this LiPo (from CS) is because of its weight.
Thnx
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:25 PM   #472
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It's all detailed in my blog, which is linked from Petit RC, and below in my sig.

I use MooreSpeed 5600 lipo's.

With the car you really don't need to worry about the weight, I had issues finding where to put it to get up to minimum limit.
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Old 12-01-2012, 03:08 AM   #473
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Well I feel dumb now.. I didn't even realize that the silly 80T spur would be too small. Ugh I just spend $45 on a buncha pinions and spurs that are useless to me lol.

(17.5 blinky gearing, 45/80 was all the LHS had that would get me to the 3.5 FDR)
Racing 13.5t. Thought of doing this: (all 48DP)
81/34 4,526
80/35 4,343
80/36 4,222
80/38 4,000
74/40 3,515
But that wouldn't work than?
If so which spurs and pinions to use to these FDR's?
Like to know before spending money on these.
Thnx

Last edited by Kensei; 12-01-2012 at 04:26 AM.
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:51 AM   #474
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Edit: Oops didn't realise many people used 48dp anymore lol
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Last edited by Luke Hobson; 12-01-2012 at 07:31 AM.
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Old 12-01-2012, 07:28 AM   #475
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Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Racing 13.5t. Thought of doing this: (all 48DP)
81/34 4,526
80/35 4,343
80/36 4,222
80/38 4,000
74/40 3,515
But that wouldn't work than?
If so which spurs and pinions to use to these FDR's?
Like to know before spending money on these.
Thnx
I've not tried 48p so I'm of no use, Sorry!
Ah crap on second thought I know the math to convert it.

The smallest spur/pinion I was able to use for an FDR of 3.4 was an 86T/48T, 64P. This is a 65T/35T spur in 48P so never go smaller than that.
The 74T spur you mentioned is about a 99T in 64P. This will give you a lot of flexibility in gearing but is kindly big for my tastes.

I would do a 72T spur (96T 64P) and 39 Pinion for 3.5FDR and just stick with that spur to get the smallest spur/pinion you can. If I did the math correctly the smallest pinion you can use with the 72T spur is a 28T pinion. (86+10=96, 48-10=38, the smallest pinion you can run with a 96T spur is a 38T pinion. 38/2*1.5=28.5, You have to round up to get the correct pinion size so that means it's rounded up to 29T so this give you 2 additional teeth to work with since you can go down to a 28T pinion.)...Gods I hate math..

72/30=4.56
72/31=4.412
72/32=4.27
72/34=4.023
72/39=3.507

Wow.. that was confusing for me and I'll bet I'm wrong somewhere in all that crap up above!
I hate switching spurs myself but the combos you listed will all fit just fine if you really want to switch spurs to get your gearing more exact. I use 64P since it's easier to dial in the exact ratio using a single spur gear.
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Last edited by Xenolance; 12-01-2012 at 08:44 AM.
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:01 AM   #476
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Edit: Oops didn't realise many people used 48dp anymore lol
I am surprised.
Everywhere I come and go in Western Europe it is 48DP for outdoor racing.
Thank God I dodged that bullet.
Gots to get me another car me think.
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:46 AM   #477
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I am surprised.
Everywhere I come and go in Western Europe it is 48DP for outdoor racing.
Thank God I dodged that bullet.
Gots to get me another car me think.
Plenty of folks here use 48P with this car. I tried it and just didn't like the way they sounded on the track and the need to swap spurs like I mentioned above in my edited post.
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:55 AM   #478
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I've not tried 48p so I'm of no use, Sorry!
Ah crap on second thought I know the math to convert it.

The smallest spur/pinion I was able to use for an FDR of 3.4 was an 86T/48T, 64P. This is a 65T/35T spur in 48P so never go smaller than that.
The 74T spur you mentioned is about a 99T in 64P. This will give you a lot of flexibility in gearing but is kindly big for my tastes.

I would do a 72T spur (96T 64P) and 39 Pinion for 3.5FDR and just stick with that spur to get the smallest spur/pinion you can. If I did the math correctly the smallest pinion you can use with the 72T spur is a 28T pinion. (86+10=96, 48-10=38, the smallest pinion you can run with a 96T spur is a 38T pinion. 38/2*1.5=28.5, You have to round up to get the correct pinion size so that means it's rounded up to 29T so this give you 2 additional teeth to work with since you can go down to a 28T pinion.)...Gods I hate math..

72/30=4.56
72/31=4.412
72/32=4.27
72/34=4.023
72/39=3.507

Wow.. that was confusing for me and I'll bet I'm wrong somewhere in all that crap up above!
I hate switching spurs myself but the combos you listed will all fit just fine if you really want to switch spurs to get your gearing more exact. I use 64P since it's easier to dial in the exact ratio using a single spur gear.
Thanks.
So mine would work?
But yours is more handy because there is no need for switching spurs?
I hope this spur and these pinions are available. Gonna look into it.

You say you bet you are wrong somewhere? I hope not............
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:28 AM   #479
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Thanks.
So mine would work?
But yours is more handy because there is no need for switching spurs?
I hope this spur and these pinions are available. Gonna look into it.

You say you bet you are wrong somewhere? I hope not............
Yes, all of yours will fit just fine for sure.

I just double checked the math on mine and it appears to be correct.

If you want to do the math the formulas are as follows.

Convert 48P to 64P: (X/1.5*2=Y) where X is the tooth count in 48P and Y is the tooth count in 64P, Example: ( 72/1.5=48, 48*1.5=96 ) So this shows that a 72T spur in 48P is the same size as a 96T spur gear in 64P.

Convert 64P to 48P: (X/2*1.5=Y) where X is the tooth count in 64P and Y is the tooth count in 49P, Example: ( 96/2=48, 48*1.5=72 )

So in my example, 65/35 was the smallest combo that would fit giving a FDR of 3.52 but you could never go smaller than a 35T pinion.

To get the smallest you could use with the 72T spur you simply subtact 65 from 72 which is 7. Then subtract 7 from the pinion size, so 35-7=28 which is the smallest pinion you should be able to run with a 72T spur.

Wow I really hate math and gear ratios. I wasted around $50 USD trying to find the best ratios I could for this car and I've always liked the smallest spur/pinion combo I could get away with as the car always felt more responsive that way.
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:54 AM   #480
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So I thought I was going to test out some emulsion shock caps so I ordered the tamiya 501 x shock caps and turns out they do not thread onto the shock body. Bummer. But I did put in tamiya shock shaft and the tamiya grooved o-rings and the shocks feel extremely good now. And I am using the RSd bladders.

Luke, what shock caps were you going to try.
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Last edited by jeff jenkins; 12-02-2012 at 12:29 PM.
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