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Old 11-26-2012, 10:17 AM   #436
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I find less front droop improves on power steering. It keeps the weight from transferring to the rear.

On power steering has a lot to do with rear suspension setup. You need to get the rear free and rotating so it follows the front on power.
We are prolly saying the same thing by more droop I mean going clockwise on the screw and the number gets bigger on the block/gauges
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:26 AM   #437
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Just my $.02 on the car. After owning the R1 for a couple of weeks I was able to get the car on the track finally. The main thing I was impressed with was the cars durability. I haven't been to the track in a year and haven't really driven much in a year and a half. So I was hoping this car would be able to handle me being very rusty. It handled some full speed board taps without missing a beat. These types of hits would have definitely broken a c hub/steering arm on the 416x.

I used Jeff Jenkins setup and the car handled well. I will try some DCJs in the future. I did try using a gear diff with putty in front but I didn't like how the car accelerated. I may try it again with 500k but then again I liked how it felt with a spool. The Spec R springs felt good but I will try Tamiya white/blue springs next time out.

The build quality was fine...on par with most cars out there. If you have moderate build skills you should be able to handle shimming and minor sanding. I use PRS spurs and I had to shim the lay shaft with about .4mm of shims. I also used .3mm shims between the steering arms and c hubs to take out the play. Although, I drove it without these shims in and didn't feel the effects. I lightly sand the diff spacers to remove the burrs and free up the diffs. I didn't have any issues with the bearing holders being pinched so I did not shim the upper bulkheads.

I'm looking forward to my next time at the track to see how the car reacts to setup changes!

Has anyone tried XRay steel or aluminum spool cups? I see there are several options out there and I assume they will fit the Spec R spool...
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Old 11-26-2012, 12:07 PM   #438
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That's something I'd like to know about the spool cups too as I had that idea also
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Old 11-26-2012, 12:43 PM   #439
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What he said but what I really like is that this car has a 3rd motor mount hole for use with smaller spurs....Really Hudy himself might copy this
The 3rd mounting hole is brilliant. Using 64 pitch gears I have my car set with a 96T spur and 44T pinion for a 4.145 FDR. Should be close for my club's 17.5 blinky class.
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Old 11-26-2012, 12:45 PM   #440
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That's something I'd like to know about the spool cups too as I had that idea also


I was looking at getting either one of these:

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3022

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3358
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Old 11-26-2012, 12:46 PM   #441
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The 3rd mounting hole is brilliant. Using 64 pitch gears I have my car set with a 96T spur and 44T pinion for a 4.145 FDR. Should be close for my club's 17.5 blinky class.
+1!
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Old 11-26-2012, 01:28 PM   #442
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Anyone know of a Tamiya P/N that will work for their really good ball cups? I keep getting the wrong ones somehow, the balls are always too small for the cups.. (NO LAUGHING!) I looked on TQ and didn't see a ball cup set for the 417.
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Old 11-26-2012, 01:57 PM   #443
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Anyone know of a Tamiya P/N that will work for their really good ball cups? I keep getting the wrong ones somehow, the balls are always too small for the cups.. (NO LAUGHING!) I looked on TQ and didn't see a ball cup set for the 417.
53601 is what I got I believe, scroll through the parts locator on TQ and search for Tamiya Low Friction Adjuster 5mm
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Old 11-26-2012, 02:00 PM   #444
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We'll have some Aluminum spool cups for the R1/ XRAY in about a week. They will allow you to use blades for longer wear. They are based off of our TC6 cups, which last forever.
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Old 11-26-2012, 02:28 PM   #445
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53601 is what I got I believe, scroll through the parts locator on TQ and search for Tamiya Low Friction Adjuster 5mm

I used the same and they work perfectly.
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Old 11-26-2012, 02:56 PM   #446
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53601 is what I got I believe, scroll through the parts locator on TQ and search for Tamiya Low Friction Adjuster 5mm
Ahhh!! Both times I ended up with some 6-8 MM units, it didn't say so I just bought them, looking they are identical in both packs so I'll order the ones you linked, hopefully Reflex has em in stock!
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Old 11-26-2012, 03:49 PM   #447
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Originally Posted by PitNamedGordie View Post

Yeah the 2nd ones you posted are the ones that caught my eye. I'm not a fan of using blades up front.
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:34 AM   #448
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Thank the gods tomorrow is race day! Can't wait to put all my new goodies on the car and run it, it's been a hell week so I need the racing! Got all the new Aluminum parts ordered, new say bars, etc, and will be testing my setup and tweaking some more. I need to find some Muchmore 28's in stock somewhere in the US! It's been a bit cold for my 32s I think and last week the evening dew caused the track to turn into a slip-n-slide after about 9PM.
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:53 PM   #449
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Asking for a big favor.

Could someone (with digital calipers) take a few measurements of the top deck. I'm thinking of using this top deck on an older model chassis.

These are the measurements i would need. Also, could you take center to center hole measurements.

1. Length of top deck. (Front-most hole to rear-most hole)
2. Distance between the 4 bulkhead mounting holes A) Side to side, front to back.
O O
O O

4. Lastly, the mounting holes for the lay-shaft support.
a) Use the bulkhead hole closest to the lay-shaft support as your point of reference hole.
b) Using this reference hole, measure the distance to the first lay-shaft hole
c) Once again using the reference hole, measure the distance of the second lay-shaft hole.


Thank you so much for your help.
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Old 11-28-2012, 05:47 PM   #450
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Asking for a big favor.

Could someone (with digital calipers) take a few measurements of the top deck. I'm thinking of using this top deck on an older model chassis.

These are the measurements i would need. Also, could you take center to center hole measurements.

1. Length of top deck. (Front-most hole to rear-most hole)
2. Distance between the 4 bulkhead mounting holes A) Side to side, front to back.
O O
O O

4. Lastly, the mounting holes for the lay-shaft support.
a) Use the bulkhead hole closest to the lay-shaft support as your point of reference hole.
b) Using this reference hole, measure the distance to the first lay-shaft hole
c) Once again using the reference hole, measure the distance of the second lay-shaft hole.


Thank you so much for your help.
I'll do it for you tomorrow when I'm at the track. I'm going to go pick my stuff up in the morning.
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