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Old 11-23-2012, 11:18 AM   #406
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Just finish building the car and have a few observation:
- can't fit a 64p 40t pinion with the motor installed. Using a 100t for blinky stock racing. What is everyone using for spur running stock?
- stock end caps come off too easily when adjusting for camber and toe etc. going to replace with Tamiya ones.
Otherwise the car came together quite well.
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:32 AM   #407
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Ran the S1 for the first time today, fun driving a RC car again for the first time in about 7 years. LiPo's and brushless are interesting, never run a car with them and all I can say is there's so much power available. Car felt alright, might need to soften the rear end up though. Hadn't forgotten how to build a car, and having not crashed it yet, haven't forgotten how to drive either.
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:47 AM   #408
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I run a 92/48 for blinky 17.5 with a Rectech running the 12.5 High torque rotor
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:39 PM   #409
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Finished my S1 today and gave it a quick run at my local track. Few things I noted about the build, worthy of checking over with anyone thinking of picking one of these awesome chassis up.

-Get a Dremel and an arm reamer, it'll help with the build to take all the flashing off the plastic parts, there's more in the S1 than the R1 (toe blocks, bulkheads, steering etc). It'll save time and look neater.
-The manual says to glue the belt guide onto the spool, mine came pre-molded in one piece.
-The manual says build the driveshafts, mine came pre-assembled.
-Not sure why but I couldn't get any rebound on the first shock I built. I reassembled it 3 times with no difference, built the other three shocks no problem with max rebound and redid the first one again, and it was spot on? No difference that I could tell in what I was doing but its alright now!
-I'm using a GM 5000 LiPo with the L-shaped holders and tape. Look carefully at the manual and it'll say to use two M3x12mm screws, one in the servo mount and one in the motor mount brace to stop the pack moving inwards.
-If you're running 17.5, pick up small spurs and big pinions....
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:50 PM   #410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by academygaz View Post
Finished my S1 today and gave it a quick run at my local track. Few things I noted about the build, worthy of checking over with anyone thinking of picking one of these awesome chassis up.

-Get a Dremel and an arm reamer, it'll help with the build to take all the flashing off the plastic parts, there's more in the S1 than the R1 (toe blocks, bulkheads, steering etc). It'll save time and look neater.
-The manual says to glue the belt guide onto the spool, mine came pre-molded in one piece.
-The manual says build the driveshafts, mine came pre-assembled.
-Not sure why but I couldn't get any rebound on the first shock I built. I reassembled it 3 times with no difference, built the other three shocks no problem with max rebound and redid the first one again, and it was spot on? No difference that I could tell in what I was doing but its alright now!
-I'm using a GM 5000 LiPo with the L-shaped holders and tape. Look carefully at the manual and it'll say to use two M3x12mm screws, one in the servo mount and one in the motor mount brace to stop the pack moving inwards.
-If you're running 17.5, pick up small spurs and big pinions....
The belt guide is not actually molded in, it's a tight-ish fit but it will come off, Trust me. I made the same mistake with my R1 and it popped off after a single run lol. Just work it off, apply some CA, pop it back on and use some fine needle nose plies to force it in place. It's odd the variances in kits, my flashing was super light and very east to remove.

I'm currently running a 88/52 spur/pinion and that works well out our local track. It's a 1/8th scale track so the straight is very Loooong as you can tell in the video I posted a page. My trinity D3.5 17.5 was running right at 160-170 after about 10 minutes. I'm running 20 of mechanical timing.
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:51 PM   #411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by academygaz View Post
-The manual says to glue the belt guide onto the spool, mine came pre-molded in one piece.
-The manual says build the driveshafts, mine came pre-assembled.
-Not sure why but I couldn't get any rebound on the first shock I built. I reassembled it 3 times with no difference, built the other three shocks no problem with max rebound and redid the first one again, and it was spot on? No difference that I could tell in what I was doing but its alright now!
Same here on the belt guide and driveshafts, I'd assume they either were going to produce the car differently to start with and just changed it late on, or included those points in case you need to rebuild them.

Edit: Just seen Xenolance's post - might throw some CA on there, but it seems rather well attached.

No issues with the shocks when I built them, I had more rebound on one rear than the other, but I was able to sort that out pretty easily - it was more my fault than the design. Only difference is I wasn't going for much rebound, running whatever the first notch (smallest) on the shock tool corresponds to.
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Old 11-23-2012, 05:23 PM   #412
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I'll be testing out bladerless/aeration shocks on the car the the next week or so to see how things go, if it works out well I'll put up a tutorial so everyone can have a bash at it.
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Old 11-23-2012, 05:43 PM   #413
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got my car today and its built and ready for testing tomorrow!

i did have some hickups in the build..

1. one of the steering posts was 0.1mm to big so the bearings didnt fit

2. spur layshaft issue, flanged bearings and kimbrough spur ordered!

3. shocks feels quite stiff (assembled out of the box w/o oil (did sand the plastic parts and had everything checked but couldnt get them smooth..)

4. 2 of the shock preload collars wasnt milled correctly where the oring sits so will run them without the oring

did take pics of the steeringpost and shock collars and will send them to spec r and see if they can send replecements.

will test it tomorrow, did copy jeffs setup as a start, will be running on low/med traction carpet with sorex28 and 17.5 boosted

will update how it goes, have been running a tc6.1 before on the same track so will be interesting to see how it compares!
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Old 11-23-2012, 05:45 PM   #414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke Hobson View Post
I'll be testing out bladerless/aeration shocks on the car the the next week or so to see how things go, if it works out well I'll put up a tutorial so everyone can have a bash at it.
i will be testing out the same thing once my speedtech order finally arrives its only been 2-1/2 weeks
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:13 PM   #415
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They seem to be the flavour of the month item, I'm sure either cutting bladders and tapping a hole in the top will be as good as getting a set of tamiya tops, which I'm 99.99% confident will be a direct fit
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:19 PM   #416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke Hobson View Post
They seem to be the flavour of the month item, I'm sure either cutting bladders and tapping a hole in the top will be as good as getting a set of tamiya tops, which I'm 99.99% confident will be a direct fit
They should fit, I was able to screw the TRF tops onto my S1 shock bodies with no trouble. If they were the same colour you'd struggle to tell them apart. Not running them, but I did see if they were interchangeable parts.
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Old 11-24-2012, 01:02 AM   #417
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Hello

Has any body had a problem with the gear diff leaking?
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:30 AM   #418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bappe View Post
got my car today and its built and ready for testing tomorrow!

i did have some hickups in the build..

1. one of the steering posts was 0.1mm to big so the bearings didnt fit

2. spur layshaft issue, flanged bearings and kimbrough spur ordered!

3. shocks feels quite stiff (assembled out of the box w/o oil (did sand the plastic parts and had everything checked but couldnt get them smooth..)

4. 2 of the shock preload collars wasnt milled correctly where the oring sits so will run them without the oring

did take pics of the steeringpost and shock collars and will send them to spec r and see if they can send replecements.

will test it tomorrow, did copy jeffs setup as a start, will be running on low/med traction carpet with sorex28 and 17.5 boosted

will update how it goes, have been running a tc6.1 before on the same track so will be interesting to see how it compares!

I had the same issue with the shock collars I did remove the inner flashings. The shocks build and feel like tamiyas! I am coming an X-ray t3' 12, except for the lay shaft issue this car is amazing. My bodies fit EXACTLY from my X-ray. They thought of everything!!!!!!

Yes I am selling my X-ray
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:51 AM   #419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xenolance View Post
Also..

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
thanks!! it looks good on the track
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:22 AM   #420
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The build of my new S1 Sport went well and I really didn't have any issues. I did find that there was lots of plastic flashing that needed to be removed, the single suspension hinge pin mounts are not labelled left an right which makes knowing which goes where a PITA, there are no droop setting recommendations and there are no droop screw pads to keep from wrecking the FRP chassis. Inside the red alloy shock collars there was some metal bits that needed to be scraped out so that the large O-rings would seat properly.
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