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Old 02-13-2015, 06:04 PM   #3556
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Thanks, that's what I was looking for.
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Old 02-13-2015, 07:04 PM   #3557
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Yes, 2.9F and 2.7R is correct. When I got my first Spec-R S1, I emailed them and that was what they told me.
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Old 02-13-2015, 08:04 PM   #3558
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Yokomo blue. All you ever need =]
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Old 02-13-2015, 08:17 PM   #3559
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Yes, 2.9F and 2.7R is correct. When I got my first Spec-R S1, I emailed them and that was what they told me.
What does that translate to in the Imperial system?
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Old 02-13-2015, 08:26 PM   #3560
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Google amazing
Search 290g/mm in lbs/in =16.23 lb.

Sear h 270gr/mm
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:06 PM   #3561
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What does that translate to in the Imperial system?
Google the "Reflex Racing spring chart" and you will find a list of most springs and their rates.
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:09 PM   #3562
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Boom!
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Spec-R R1-rsd_universal_spring_chart.jpg  
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:10 PM   #3563
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I thought numbers like 2.7, 2.9 were N/mm? In that case, multiply by 5.71 to get lbf/in.
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Old 02-14-2015, 11:12 AM   #3564
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My son and I are going through quite a few steering blocks with the bottom screw stripping and destroying the block. We both lost one today while racing. Does anyone have a solution for this ?
Thanks
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Old 02-14-2015, 11:33 AM   #3565
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unfortunately, steering blocks are just a common thing to go on touring cars. the xray super stiff wide bumper has helped with this tramendously, but ill still break one every couple race night. just accumulated taps will eventually kil them.

i tried running xray t2/3 style blocks which bolt right in, though you will have to shim them to be center. they broke where the steering arm meets the block. heh. but were stil better.
t4 wont work as you would need the c hub, which uses different pins than t3.
i think dbm had yokomo aluminum blocks in his r1? id rather break it than bend it though.
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Old 02-14-2015, 11:54 AM   #3566
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Quote:
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unfortunately, steering blocks are just a common thing to go on touring cars. the xray super stiff wide bumper has helped with this tramendously, but ill still break one every couple race night. just accumulated taps will eventually kil them.

i tried running xray t2/3 style blocks which bolt right in, though you will have to shim them to be center. they broke where the steering arm meets the block. heh. but were stil better.
t4 wont work as you would need the c hub, which uses different pins than t3.
i think dbm had yokomo aluminum blocks in his r1? id rather break it than bend it though.

Thanks Valk, I've thought about aluminium ones before but have been warned off them, although most buggy racers use them and they take far more punishment than touring cars. When we've stripped the threads, its been through glancing blows rather than a hard hit, so aluminium may be the answer. Its the cost which puts me off though.
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Old 02-14-2015, 11:59 AM   #3567
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just get yeah racing ones for bd5/7. should work great. they not that expensive at like $15 or something. id pm dbm about which ones he has first though. you could also try the hard composite steering blocks, just stay away from the chubs heh.
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Old 02-14-2015, 12:06 PM   #3568
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I'm using aluminum bocks for a Tamiya 417. They are sturdy enough to not bend, so no worries about that. The wheel bearings are closer together so will have to put some shims on the axle stub behind the hex
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Old 02-14-2015, 12:21 PM   #3569
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Quote:
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I'm using aluminum bocks for a Tamiya 417. They are sturdy enough to not bend, so no worries about that. The wheel bearings are closer together so will have to put some shims on the axle stub behind the hex
Hi DBM, what manufacturers blocks are you using ? Are the 417 ones a direct fit or do they need shimming ?
Thanks
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Old 02-14-2015, 12:26 PM   #3570
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Hi DBM, what manufacturers blocks are you using ? Are the 417 ones a direct fit or do they need shimming ?
Thanks
They are from yeah racing. They were ever so slightly tight between the king pin bushings so I had to remove a small amount of material with a file. I use them on both my S1 and R1.
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