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Old 11-23-2014, 06:24 PM   #3421
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I got the Spec-R P8 DCJ's: http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=682

Nice and smooth. But I drive crappy, and broke the axle (threaded part). Spec-R doesn't seem to sell the individual parts.

Anybody know of a part (Tamiya, Yokomo, etc) that will fit? I don't want to have to shell out for another full set of DCJ's just to replace one part. Although the way I drive, I may need it!
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:30 PM   #3422
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This?
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=4708
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Old 11-26-2014, 07:42 PM   #3423
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Im running my S1 on a low to medium grip parking lot club track with 3000wt diff fluid in the rear, Rear shocks in #6 hole, shortest camber links possible, and 3 rear toe in, 2.5 camber. Problem is on Take off from a dead stop the rear end spins out on full throttle , only way to avoid it is lightly easing on the throttle , through the turns at low speeds I can get on the throttle pretty hard and dont notice much of the problem as I do from a dead stop taking off. Should I try something around 800wt in the rear diff ? Lay the rear shocks down a few holes ? I found on rctech that 3000wt was better for high traction tracts and 500 for low traction, rccaractions says thicker diff oil for better foward traction. Any suggestions ?
I changed the rear toe to 3 and laid the rear shocks down 1 hole and the car drives like its on rails ! Huge difference, didn't need to change the diff fluid wt.

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Old 11-26-2014, 10:44 PM   #3424
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you definitely wont want 2mil in the rear dif. 1500-3000wt is ideal for the rear. 2mil is something you would consider for afront dif when you want more steering.

So i thought id try something completely different tonight and put a 418 setup on the R1pro.
Im not gonna compare myself to marc but i have to say his setup works very well for me on our carpet track. car super responsive, stable "enough"
i didnt pull my best laptime but i was able to drive faster laps more consistantly without having to overdrive the car as much. still chasing sub 10 seconds on 100x36, but i think im mindfking myself.. i mean 20+ years vs my 3.. and the tires.. man the even used worn out gravity tires seemed to be stickier than new sweeps lol.
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Old 11-26-2014, 11:15 PM   #3425
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Which setup did you use, Valk? Now that I primarily run a D06, I'm willing to start trying new stuff with my R1 Pro.
Will you be running at the Victoria WCICS race? I have the time booked off of work for it, but not sure if I'll be able to transport myself out there.
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Old 11-27-2014, 09:36 AM   #3426
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Victoria wcics race is my annual report card as I'm too poor to travel to other wcics races hope to see you there though. Its totally epic with over 230 entries. Maybe this year word has spread enough e could break 300!

I used marcs ets setup from 2013. Its like the only one posted for the 418. Differences though being I only have limited springs. Nothing in 2.6 range. So spec r 2.7 f and xray yelloe in back. Added a little droop too which I haven't measured yet.
Blake didn't like it at all but I point and shoot and let the car rotate on its own. I think he spends way more time on throttle and it pushed everywhere for him heh.

I'd love a d07 but.my rc budget is in the toilet. I need new tires for 1/12 and its something I have to plan for lol

Ps if it helps you come to our race, my couch ia damn comfy. Even if you were to share with someone this would save you at least $150
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Last edited by valk; 11-27-2014 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 11-27-2014, 04:05 PM   #3427
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Hi

Have anyone tried the S1 chassis on a R1? As out outdoor track is lacking of traction due to the wet/cold weather, I am intending to use the S1 fibreglass chassis on my R1, as I have both cars. Our track is quite technical with a only a short straight. Hoping to achieve more steering and have the car more planted as the tyres cool down pretty fast even with the use of tyres warmer.

Currently car is on 2.5 degree rear toe, front droop 5, rear droop 4. Ride height 5.5 all round. Shocks on 500cst oil with famous blue/ yellow combo with 3 holes piston . Car is so planted on track that I am under steering on 17.5 blinky and protoform dodge stratus shell.

Any advise is appreciated.
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Old 11-27-2014, 04:39 PM   #3428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viktozzz View Post
Hi

Have anyone tried the S1 chassis on a R1? As out outdoor track is lacking of traction due to the wet/cold weather, I am intending to use the S1 fibreglass chassis on my R1, as I have both cars. Our track is quite technical with a only a short straight. Hoping to achieve more steering and have the car more planted as the tyres cool down pretty fast even with the use of tyres warmer.

Currently car is on 2.5 degree rear toe, front droop 5, rear droop 4. Ride height 5.5 all round. Shocks on 500cst oil with famous blue/ yellow combo with 3 holes piston . Car is so planted on track that I am under steering on 17.5 blinky and protoform dodge stratus shell.

Any advise is appreciated.
You need to get the rear end to rotate. I would try more rear droop or lower the the inner ball stud. Perhaps a combination of the two.
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Old 11-27-2014, 05:16 PM   #3429
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a front dif will give you a messton of steering without vchanging anything else. alternatly, more rear droop as described will also accomplish this but only off the thottle.
its going to depend a lot on how you drive your corners. if your the type the takes a wide arc and leans on the tires, or like me, drive up to the apex and slam on the brakes lol.
front dif will give you more steering under all conditions and its tunable, so thats a plus, but it lacks the stability of the spool i think.

you can lower the rear links, raise the upper links, shorten the wheelbase, narrow the front of the car, widen the rear ect.

s1 bottom plate WILL work and it will flex more but it will flex a lot more and be a fair amount heavier too. snipe the dif, put 2mil in it, try that.
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Old 11-28-2014, 01:54 AM   #3430
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500K should be more than enough in the front diff. I have run it like that for 2 seasons. If you put 2 mil in then you may as well have a spool in it.
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Old 11-28-2014, 03:16 AM   #3431
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Thanks guys.

Guess I forgot to mention that I do have a front diff with 100k oil on. Guess I try to up the oil to 500k and try again. I'm trying to get the car to rotate more, and be planted at the same time. Since with the wet weather, I'm looking to get it more stable and planted , thus, I dun care much bout the heavier weight.

Would try all inputs and update all again. Am gearing her up for upcoming 13.5 blinky gt class
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Old 11-28-2014, 03:38 AM   #3432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valk View Post
Victoria wcics race is my annual report card as I'm too poor to travel to other wcics races hope to see you there though. Its totally epic with over 230 entries. Maybe this year word has spread enough e could break 300!

I used marcs ets setup from 2013. Its like the only one posted for the 418. Differences though being I only have limited springs. Nothing in 2.6 range. So spec r 2.7 f and xray yelloe in back. Added a little droop too which I haven't measured yet.
Blake didn't like it at all but I point and shoot and let the car rotate on its own. I think he spends way more time on throttle and it pushed everywhere for him heh.

I'd love a d07 but.my rc budget is in the toilet. I need new tires for 1/12 and its something I have to plan for lol

Ps if it helps you come to our race, my couch ia damn comfy. Even if you were to share with someone this would save you at least $150
There are more setup sheets for the TRF418 available here :

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...iyaTRF418.html
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Old 11-28-2014, 08:12 AM   #3433
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Yes but only one carpet setup from marc. I wanted to try something aggressive and pro.
2mil isn't that heavy. Out on the bench yes but pit wheels on and its fairly easy to dif. Imagine speed and 1.5 kg pushing on it.
Someone at our track had a double dif setup with 2mil and that car is suuuuuper darty lol. Like more than mine.
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Old 11-28-2014, 05:51 PM   #3434
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double post
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Last edited by funked1; 01-17-2015 at 01:08 PM. Reason: 2x
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Old 11-28-2014, 05:53 PM   #3435
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Just FYI the 3Racing SSK axle does not fit on the Spec-R P8 DCJ. Most of the dimensions are the same but they used slightly different sized pins and it's a no-go. I am going to switch over to the 3Racing SSK's and use the axles I bought as spares.

Quote:
Originally Posted by funked1 View Post
I got the Spec-R P8 DCJ's: http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=682

Nice and smooth. But I drive crappy, and broke the axle (threaded part). Spec-R doesn't seem to sell the individual parts.

Anybody know of a part (Tamiya, Yokomo, etc) that will fit? I don't want to have to shell out for another full set of DCJ's just to replace one part. Although the way I drive, I may need it!
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