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Old 10-31-2014, 09:41 PM   #3406
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Has anybody else had trouble with the center pulley fouling on the upper deck?

I'm building up a second car with a mix of R1 and s1 parts but the sides of the center pully stop me from putting the upper deck on. I'm using a kawada spur, which may be too wide I'm guessing. Can I shave the edge of the pulley down a bit?

Any advice?
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Old 10-31-2014, 10:23 PM   #3407
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Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
Has anybody else had trouble with the center pully fouling on the upper deck?

I'm building up a second car with a mix of R1 and s1 parts but the sides of the center pully stop me from putting the upper deck on. I'm using a kawada spur, which may be too wide I'm guessing. Can I shave the edge of the pull-up down a bit?

Any advice?
Why don't you just grind down the portions of the top deck that are causing inference? That's what I did. Worked Like a champ.
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Old 10-31-2014, 10:34 PM   #3408
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Yeah that's one of my options. I've noticed that on my other car the sides of the pully are flat where as on this one they have a ridge. Maybe the previous owner of my other car grinded the pully back.
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Old 11-01-2014, 02:38 AM   #3409
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Which gear diff did you get? (the S1 gear diff has different internal gears, seals, etc than the S2 gear diff).

Has anybody tried putting the S1 gear diff in the S2? Or vice versa? Were any advantages found? Any comments on which gear diff you thought was superior (in terms of drive ratio or not leaking or something else?

Also, tqrcracing only has internals for the S1 gear diff. Has anybody found a US source for S2 gear diff parts?
We have S2 Gear diff parts arrived today.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...id=60&s_sort=3

Thanks.
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Old 11-05-2014, 11:19 PM   #3410
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Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
Has anybody else had trouble with the center pulley fouling on the upper deck?

I'm building up a second car with a mix of R1 and s1 parts but the sides of the center pully stop me from putting the upper deck on. I'm using a kawada spur, which may be too wide I'm guessing. Can I shave the edge of the pulley down a bit?

Any advice?
Has anybody else had this problem?
What brand of spur do you use to avoid this?
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Old 11-06-2014, 12:49 AM   #3411
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this was a problem with the S1 top plate where it had to be modified slightly. ive had both original R1 topplates where this was not a problem. just file down some material from the s1 topplate and it works fine.
the s2 topplate seems to have corrected this problem. a worthwhile replacement for a s1 for sure.

my experience is mostly with kimbrough spurs, but ive started using yokomo spurs and like them better.
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Old 11-06-2014, 01:08 AM   #3412
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Thanks for the advice valk.
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Old 11-22-2014, 11:30 PM   #3413
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Im running my S1 on a low to medium grip parking lot club track with 3000wt diff fluid in the rear, Rear shocks in #6 hole, shortest camber links possible, and 3° rear toe in, 2.5° camber. Problem is on Take off from a dead stop the rear end spins out on full throttle , only way to avoid it is lightly easing on the throttle , through the turns at low speeds I can get on the throttle pretty hard and dont notice much of the problem as I do from a dead stop taking off. Should I try something around 800wt in the rear diff ? Lay the rear shocks down a few holes ? I found on rctech that 3000wt was better for high traction tracts and 500 for low traction, rccaractions says thicker diff oil for better foward traction. Any suggestions ?
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:17 AM   #3414
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Originally Posted by rtenzo02 View Post
Im running my S1 on a low to medium grip parking lot club track with 3000wt diff fluid in the rear, Rear shocks in #6 hole, shortest camber links possible, and 3° rear toe in, 2.5° camber. Problem is on Take off from a dead stop the rear end spins out on full throttle , only way to avoid it is lightly easing on the throttle , through the turns at low speeds I can get on the throttle pretty hard and dont notice much of the problem as I do from a dead stop taking off. Should I try something around 800wt in the rear diff ? Lay the rear shocks down a few holes ? I found on rctech that 3000wt was better for high traction tracts and 500 for low traction, rccaractions says thicker diff oil for better foward traction. Any suggestions ?
Try 1000 or 1500 wt.
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Old 11-23-2014, 09:55 AM   #3415
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Ill try the 1000wt and see if that calms the rear down , my cousin runs a trf417 on the same track and he uses 500wt in his rear diff but that sounds too light to me , Im fast in the corners and dont want to scrub off to much speed to settle down the rear end.
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Old 11-23-2014, 11:47 AM   #3416
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I posted a setup on petit that works very well on parking lot assuming sugar water is used. also depends on your driving style.
All i have in my pit box is 900cst and 3000cst lol. so i mix them together to arrive somewhere in thei middle, hopefully 1500-2000.
if say if anything, you would want a heavier rear dif to get better rear traction when outdoors and if running high traction indoors, you could go lighter to get faster rotation. you could also add a front dif to accomplish that.

2.5 is too much camber. i think if you tone that down to 1.5-2 at most it should help. toe seems normal. maybe stand the shocks up and mess with roll centers. you also might consider softer springs, like xray 2.5 or yokomo blue/black/yellow.

I tend to run identical springrates f/r with the front shocks more angled than the rears. but depends how you drive. i drive the car on the nose and use my brakes a lot.

you could also try taking out some screws. ive had good success running just the 4 outermost top plate screws. had lots of traction but slower rotation. when i put in every screw i got much better reactiveness and rotation but it did cost some traction. depends how stuck you want it i guess.

you didnt mention the type of tires and their condition.
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Old 11-23-2014, 04:13 PM   #3417
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Im running muchmore absolute 28r premounts in 60ish°F weather , no traction sauce during practice laps, and the track is normally pretty sticky from the soda they spray down in raceday. Using only 1 screw on the rear top deck. With diff fluid wt I thought the thicker the fluid the more locked affect you get from it , the thinner the oil the more it slips allowing better traction ? Im still gonna try some lighter diff fluid , also 2° rear camber would help with more contact patch on the straight. Ill try small changes until I get close to what Im looking for. Thanks for that suggestion. Oh, and Im running hara red springs which I think are very close to hpi silvers , 37.5wt shock oil front and rear. Gonna take a look at the setup you posted as well. Just want to make sure Im going the right direction in diff fluid wt by going lighter wt from where Im at now with 3000wt.

Last edited by rtenzo02; 11-23-2014 at 04:35 PM.
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Old 11-23-2014, 04:41 PM   #3418
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Originally Posted by rtenzo02 View Post
Im running muchmore absolute 28r premounts in 60ish°F weather , no traction sauce during practice laps, and the track is normally pretty sticky from the soda they spray down in raceday. Using only 1 screw on the rear top deck. With diff fluid wt I thought the thicker the fluid the more locked affect you get from it , the thinner the oil the more it slips allowing better traction ? Im still gonna try some lighter diff fluid , also 2° rear camber would help with more contact patch on the straight. Ill try small changes until I get close to what Im looking for. Thanks for that suggestion. Oh, and Im running hara red springs which I think are very close to hpi silvers , 37.5wt shock oil front and rear. Gonna take a look at the setup you posted as well. Just want to make sure Im going the right direction in diff fluid wt by going lighter wt from where Im at now with 3000wt.
You might try using thinner oil in the shocks. I found 30wt in the front and 27.5wt in the rear worked well.
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Old 11-23-2014, 05:38 PM   #3419
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Had a successful month with the S2.

Hoping people will start to look at cheaper options when running spec classes. Cars are very capable.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13676544-post78.html
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:33 PM   #3420
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Im going to try 1000wt diff fluid and -2° rear camber first and go from there, I think that should calm the rear end down. Thanks guys ! Ill post an update.
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