filippimini

I'm having trouble with the bottom screw always pulling out of the steering block. Any tips to avoid this, besides not hitting walls.

Also, by output shaft kept coming out of the front spool. Has anyone else experienced this?

addicted2blue

Perhaps you can use a longer ball stud 5mmx8mm and use a low profile nut on the upperside of the steering block.
That should be able to stop the ball stud to come out of your steering block.
Did you use the screws to lock your spool outdrives to the spool itself?
Most importand is to stay away from the walls, that can be done with taking your corners a little bit more wide and you can even go a little faster arround the track cause your car carries more speed in to the corners.

valk

iTrader: (13)

maybe let a little thread lock set on the screw before putting it in. prethread the holes first.

F1Jet

My shocks are built to the 60.5 mm length from the manual and when mounted in the car this shock length gives almost no uptravel. The springs are almost touching the adjuster rings when built to this length,. I am using the kti springs, regular length. Am I supposed to be using short-length springs? What shock length are others using?

mooby64

iTrader: (3)

I had the same issue with my S2 kit. I bought the Spec-R 20mm long spring set and they work great.

addicted2blue

That's because the shocktowers are lower then the ones of the Pro Spec.
So i guess it can be solved with mounting some S1 or R1 shocktowers.
But first thing you can do is remove the suspension spacers that will solve the problem aswell, I think they are about 1mm thick.

F1Jet

WOW! That is such an important bit of information.

The Yokomo DB7 manual sets the shock length is 63.5 mm, a huge difference. What advantage did Spec R intend to gain by using the lower shock towers?

I am not sure what parts you mean by suspension spacers - my build was as per the manual so no spacers were added between the various car parts and the chassis plate. The shocks were built as per manual without any additional spacers, so there's no extra spacers to remove. It seems that I will need to add spacers between the chassis plate and the diff block to gain some shock length.

addicted2blue

If you don't use them it should be fine, but i do think the springs are to stiff and the oil that's supplied with the kit is to thick.
I had the same problem like you have but then i changed to my usually used oils as in my other cars.
I used in front 450 and at the rear 350 with some tamiya TRF418 springs and the car was good.
I was able to set the car at the right ride height and droop settings.
And the car works great and is super fast to drive.

The best way to solve the problem is to use some S1 or R1 shocktowers and you will be fine.

valk

iTrader: (13)

This problem is mentioned again and again. Simply mount shocks more angled and you can get 5 mm ride height and proper droop np.

You need to use the d hole on front arms. And c hole on rear arms. There is the problem of wheels scrubbing the shock eyelet at full steering lock but the s2 is very narrow in factory trim. Spacing the wheels out helps here.

JimmyMack12

RE: Spec-R S1 -

Is there another aluminum motor mount that has a bit more adjustability for different spurs/pinions? With the stock (kit) motor mount, you can only go so big on spur before you can't go any bigger on pinion, and vice-versa. It doesn't leave many options. I'm running the car as a VTA car.

.crispy

Yeah, you really have to find the sweet spot on the spur. I settled on a 96t 64p spur. I can go from 4.25 all the way down to the low 3s with my FDR no problem.

F1Jet

Thanks for your patience, and more importantly for a possible solution. While 5 mm is a good ride height, the indoor carpet season is getting into full swing here and I would like to be able to go lower than 5 and still have my shock mounting options. I did observe the problem with the wheel rub back in the summer when I noticed white powder around the suspension arm and a notch in the plastic ball cup connector. A set of wider wheel hubs all around solved that issue.

.crispy

Wow. I'm shocked that anyone will let you go lower than 5mm. It's pretty much the universal standard.

I guess they don't care about their carpet...

big al

iTrader: (10)

Why don't you just twist out the lower shock ball cup? Give it a full turn or two to lengthen the shock. Problem solved. I've never built a shock shorter than 62.5mm

DBM

I had to do just that on my R1 ps. I could not achieve a decent droop setting without lengthening the shock two turns.