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Old 09-29-2014, 02:19 PM   #3346
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Originally Posted by ddub View Post
Been out of RC for a long while and decided to take advantage of the excellent asphalt onroad course by me and get into USGT. I picked up a s2 kit about 2 weeks ago from tqrc and have been slowly building it out. I ran into two problems with the kit and one more that I am unsure on.

1) the suspension mounts (S1P402) are supposed to come with 2 offsets to the right and 2 to the left. I got 3 right and 1 left. Contacted TQRC and they are sending me the right ones immediately. Thanks for the good customer service TQRC.

2) One of my shock shafts looks like it was broken off right where the shaft narrows before the threads. There was no small broken part in the bag, just the broken shaft. Unfortunately, the part for the S2 calls for a 26mm shaft and it doesn't seem like spec R provide this separately. The normal R1/S1 part is a 28mm shaft. TQRC is working with Spec R to get a solution on this.

Does anyone know if there is an alternative or issue with using the 28mm shaft specifically on the S2? I seem to remember reading in this thread about the shorter shock towers making it more difficult get ride height down. Is this maybe to address that? Any thoughts would be helpful.

3) I've never owned a belt driven RC before. I have everything set up correctly, shimmed battery side, no wobble, etc. but I still have a very slight sort of clicking when moving the drivetrain. I have traced it down to the front belt not meshing perfectly with the wheel on the gear on the spur gear assembly. It is like the belt coming in to the spur rides the top of the gear before it click in to place. Is this normal? Will it go away one everything settles in? Also, the belts both front and rear seem to want to ride on the outside of all of the gears; diff, spool and both spur side gears. It doesn't look like they are jumping or anything so based on what I read in here, I am not worrying about it.

Thanks for any thoughts or advice on this build!
i used shafts from my cyclone when I built my shocks and different pistons and different O-rings
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Old 09-30-2014, 10:42 AM   #3347
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After setting up my car and getting everything dialed in, the rear end became super loose on corner entry. I open up the rear diff to rebuild it thinking it might be the problem. I noticed that the 2k oil had dissipated to 1/3 of the original amount. There have been no leaks. Does the oil burn up inside causing this.
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Old 09-30-2014, 01:24 PM   #3348
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After setting up my car and getting everything dialed in, the rear end became super loose on corner entry. I open up the rear diff to rebuild it thinking it might be the problem. I noticed that the 2k oil had dissipated to 1/3 of the original amount. There have been no leaks. Does the oil burn up inside causing this.
The oil does not burn up, it will leak out only. When you built the diff, did you let the oil work it's way into the gears? Is the diff very stiff when you first put it together? I had a problem with the diff o-ring swelling to the point where the diff was unusable.
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Old 09-30-2014, 02:23 PM   #3349
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Diff is smooth before and after. Gears still look good. A little more resistance frm 2k to 3k oil. No residue from the diff in over 25 battery packs. Around 900 carpet road course laps. If it leaked it did not leave anything on the chassis.
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Old 10-02-2014, 12:08 AM   #3350
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Hi guys, I have a problem with the screws coming lose at the front of the front bulkhead resulting in my belt becoming lose. They are the ones that hold the suspension tower down to the bulkhead.

Is there anyway to fix this?

Also, what oil should I be using in the diff and the shocks?
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Old 10-02-2014, 04:48 AM   #3351
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Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
Hi guys, I have a problem with the screws coming lose at the front of the front bulkhead resulting in my belt becoming lose. They are the ones that hold the suspension tower down to the bulkhead.

Is there anyway to fix this?

Also, what oil should I be using in the diff and the shocks?
Screws into aluminum, use blue Locktite threadlocker.

Screws into plastic, use CA glue as your threadlocker. Yes, it comes apart.

I have 2000 cst in my rear diff and 500,000 in my front gear diff.

Shocks are based on your conditions but I used Associated 32.5 wt.

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Old 10-02-2014, 01:31 PM   #3352
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The s2s I built; I used hole d on the front arm and the second from inside on the tower. With the preload collar all the way out it gave 5-5.5 ride height with a ready to run 17.5 tc.
Did you use a spacer under the arm mount? I can only get down to 8mm with the stock springs using the same holes. This is with the car at 1450g for USGT.
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Old 10-02-2014, 01:39 PM   #3353
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I got tired of fighting the ride height issue too. I just bought the Tamiya TRF Short Springs. Problem solved.
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Old 10-02-2014, 01:47 PM   #3354
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1mm spacer in front. None in rear. Tire diameter might also plsy a part. We run muchmores outside with a smaller diameter than the sweeps we run indoor. just have to play with shock angles.
Xray short springs work too.
If.I.buy an s2 for stock, ill prob just use my s1 towers and avoid this problem.
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Old 10-02-2014, 02:44 PM   #3355
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Thanks guys.
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Old 10-02-2014, 03:21 PM   #3356
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Thanks for the advice .crispy

Ryan
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Old 10-08-2014, 05:00 AM   #3357
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New top deck and bottom deck for R1: http://www.redrc.net/2014/10/spec-r-...ck/#more-87214

It makes you wonder what's going on with the R2, I thought it was due soon. Perhaps it'll just be a Pro Spec with these new plates and a few extras from the S2.

I'm still loving my Pro Spec, it's doing very well at my local club
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Old 10-08-2014, 06:41 AM   #3358
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Re-introduction of the chassis. I had it on mine for over a year. I just sold the car though.
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Old 10-08-2014, 08:04 AM   #3359
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Wouldn't the new decks fit both the s/r1 and s2?
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Old 10-08-2014, 08:27 AM   #3360
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I have that chassis plate on my s1 touring car. Although I think mine is 2.5mm. It works awesome though. I use it with a standard r1 topdeck. I feel like it's the chassis the pro spec should have come with.
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