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Old 09-24-2014, 11:48 PM   #3331
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Im considering the Prospec carbon chassis plate on a S2 ??

Is it a worthwhile mod ? I race 21.5T blinky on low grip ashfelt.
The prospec plate is reasonably cheap at just over $50 .
Will it give more grip .
Does it have more flex than the S2 plate & would a more flexi plate make the car slower to change direction into tight turns ?

It would be the last upgrade on a car I'll probably be keeping for a few years.

edited to avoid further confusion :-)

Last edited by 1101; 09-25-2014 at 12:39 AM.
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Old 09-25-2014, 12:28 AM   #3332
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Does anyone of you guys know where i could find the R1 Pro Spec upper deck (it's the B-type version with part nr SPR-R1G757)?
It seems they are sold out everwhere i could find them.
I didn't say the chassis plate, i said the upper deck
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Old 09-25-2014, 12:37 AM   #3333
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I didn't say the chassis plate, i said the upper deck
Yep, you want deck, I want plate
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Old 09-25-2014, 05:42 AM   #3334
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Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
Does anyone of you guys know where i could find the R1 Pro Spec upper deck (it's the B-type version with part nr SPR-R1G757)?
It seems they are sold out everwhere i could find them.
I never could find the one that come stock on my ProSpec.

I ended up buying one each of the

Spec-R (SPR-R1C505)
Spec-R R1 Upper Deck 2.0mm

and the

Spec-R (SPR-R1G753)
Spec-R R1 Upper Deck 2.0mm (Type A)

I think I put the latter one on.

Can someone tell me in laymans terms the differences I might expect between all three types?
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Old 09-25-2014, 05:01 PM   #3335
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S2 Build question... There is a large (~12mm dia.) O-ring that is shown in the manual going on the outside of the shock body, between the top of the spring and the preload collar. The manual is not clear about exactly how these go on, and none of the photos of assembled cars show the O-rings. Should I just leave those out?

Last edited by funked1; 09-25-2014 at 05:16 PM.
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Old 09-25-2014, 05:14 PM   #3336
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Originally Posted by cementsurfer86 View Post
I think Tamiya has something similar to that. I'll give a look see in my box tonight when I get home. If I remember though, the Tamiya ones weren't all that much stronger than what you described...
Looks like SPR010-SC will fit. They don't call out the dimensions on the product page, but both these and the S2 HD diff screws show up in the car manuals as "M2.6 x 11" screws along with a picture of a machine screw.
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Old 09-25-2014, 05:15 PM   #3337
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Very common problem for those of us using the Spec-R for VTA. The vintage wheels are too deep.

I have to run 7mm hexes on the front. You might be able to get away with 6mm. 6.5mm would be best.
I 3D printed some 6.5mm hexes and you are right.
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Old 09-25-2014, 05:25 PM   #3338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funked1 View Post
S2 Build question... There is a large (~12mm dia.) O-ring that is shown in the manual going on the outside of the shock body, between the top of the spring and the preload collar. The manual is not clear about exactly how these go on, and none of the photos of assembled cars show the O-rings. Should I just leave those out?

There is a groove inside the collar that they fit into.

They provide resistance so the screw collar doesn't move when you don't want it to.
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Old 09-25-2014, 05:27 PM   #3339
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So should the ring go against the shock body threads below the adjuster?
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Old 09-25-2014, 05:35 PM   #3340
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So should the ring go against the shock body threads below the adjuster?
Inside it.
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Old 09-25-2014, 06:11 PM   #3341
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Inside it.
Thanks!!!
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Old 09-27-2014, 11:36 PM   #3342
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Default steering slop

I had the first test run today .
How do I get rid of all the steering slop. I have the upgrade metal steering mech. Do I need better bearings in the steering mech?
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Old 09-28-2014, 07:36 AM   #3343
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I had the first test run today .
How do I get rid of all the steering slop. I have the upgrade metal steering mech. Do I need better bearings in the steering mech?
Fought with this since day one. A lot of it is the post that the bearings ride on. Just not very tight.

New bearings didn't help at all.
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Old 09-28-2014, 02:59 PM   #3344
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you need to shim between the INNER bearing races. i just baught a bunch of 3-4-5-mm shims to try this out myself. otherwise, use orings on the ballstuds to keep things tight. you can never get rid of all the slop, but dont feel bad, the new xrays ive been building for people lately have a decent amount of slop in this as well. with todays servos i wouldnt worry about freeness with the ballbearings but you dont want any binds obviously. a little tight is still ok if it gets rid of unwanted bumpsteer.
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Old 09-29-2014, 01:45 PM   #3345
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Been out of RC for a long while and decided to take advantage of the excellent asphalt onroad course by me and get into USGT. I picked up a s2 kit about 2 weeks ago from tqrc and have been slowly building it out. I ran into two problems with the kit and one more that I am unsure on.

1) the suspension mounts (S1P402) are supposed to come with 2 offsets to the right and 2 to the left. I got 3 right and 1 left. Contacted TQRC and they are sending me the right ones immediately. Thanks for the good customer service TQRC.

2) One of my shock shafts looks like it was broken off right where the shaft narrows before the threads. There was no small broken part in the bag, just the broken shaft. Unfortunately, the part for the S2 calls for a 26mm shaft and it doesn't seem like spec R provide this separately. The normal R1/S1 part is a 28mm shaft. TQRC is working with Spec R to get a solution on this.

Does anyone know if there is an alternative or issue with using the 28mm shaft specifically on the S2? I seem to remember reading in this thread about the shorter shock towers making it more difficult get ride height down. Is this maybe to address that? Any thoughts would be helpful.

3) I've never owned a belt driven RC before. I have everything set up correctly, shimmed battery side, no wobble, etc. but I still have a very slight sort of clicking when moving the drivetrain. I have traced it down to the front belt not meshing perfectly with the wheel on the gear on the spur gear assembly. It is like the belt coming in to the spur rides the top of the gear before it click in to place. Is this normal? Will it go away one everything settles in? Also, the belts both front and rear seem to want to ride on the outside of all of the gears; diff, spool and both spur side gears. It doesn't look like they are jumping or anything so based on what I read in here, I am not worrying about it.

Thanks for any thoughts or advice on this build!
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