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Old 08-16-2014, 04:32 PM   #3226
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Originally Posted by rtenzo02 View Post
I'm wondering if anyone's ever removed the outer servo mount (stock s1) to achieve the floating servo affect ? The only bad thing I noticed about the idea is the servo mounts only use 1 screw so thinking about ca gluing it to the chassis with the single screw for extra strength to avoid the mount twisting. Any opinions ? Thanks in advance !
A small piece of servo tape, under the inboard side of the servo may do the trick. If you want to go more "old school" use a little Shoe Goo to keep it from moving around.
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Old 08-16-2014, 05:01 PM   #3227
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A small piece of servo tape, under the inboard side of the servo may do the trick. If you want to go more "old school" use a little Shoe Goo to keep it from moving around.
Thanks mooby for responding, wouldn't the tape or shoe goo defeat the floating servo effect ? Without much thought I assume it wouldn't be much different then using the outer servo mount ? Using the inner mount only, would allow the chassis to flex more than using the 1 mount and tape or goo ? I look at the adhesive as the outer mount seeing it bonds the servo across the chassis vs using a single inner mount that secures the servo to the chassis all by itself ? Help me out here ! Thanks again !
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Old 08-16-2014, 05:24 PM   #3228
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Default S2 questions

Hi guys.
Im considering an S2 (over the Sakura)

A couple of questions
- Are the diff outdrives metal or plastic
- does it have CV's front & back (ie NOT dogbones)
- Will a silvercan/old school brushed motor actuall fit the motor mount. I know newer cars motor mounts are designed with Silvercans in mind.....
- Are the optional sway bars needed for low stock/silvercan racing ?
- How fussy is setup on this... Im really after a car that will drive well if the setup isnt 100% spot on. Its just a lack of time sort of thing, I just want to turn up & race, not spend hours finding the right setup.
Ive been out of racing for 3 years, but want to get back into racing occasionly, so dont want to spend big $ on a car that wont be used that often.

Cheers
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Old 08-16-2014, 05:28 PM   #3229
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Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Hi guys.
Im considering an S2 (over the Sakura)

A couple of questions
- Are the diff outdrives metal or plastic
- does it have CV's front & back (ie NOT dogbones)
- Will a silvercan/old school brushed motor actuall fit the motor mount. I know newer cars motor mounts are designed with Silvercans in mind.....
- Are the optional sway bars needed for low stock/silvercan racing ?
- How fussy is setup on this... Im really after a car that will drive well if the setup isnt 100% spot on. Its just a lack of time sort of thing, I just want to turn up & race, not spend hours finding the right setup.
Ive been out of racing for 3 years, but want to get back into racing occasionly, so dont want to spend big $ on a car that wont be used that often.

Cheers
If I may , I've read a few post from people saying the spec r cars perform well right out of the box with stock manual settings.
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Old 08-16-2014, 05:35 PM   #3230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtenzo02 View Post
Thanks mooby for responding, wouldn't the tape or shoe goo defeat the floating servo effect ? Without much thought I assume it wouldn't be much different then using the outer servo mount ? Using the inner mount only, would allow the chassis to flex more than using the 1 mount and tape or goo ? I look at the adhesive as the outer mount seeing it bonds the servo across the chassis vs using a single inner mount that secures the servo to the chassis all by itself ? Help me out here ! Thanks again !
Use just the inner mount with a small bit of servo tape to keep the outer portion of the servo "floating" above the chassis. A small dab of Shoe Goo, around the inner edge of the servo, will allow the chassis to flex/twist, and keep the servo in place. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-16-2014, 06:23 PM   #3231
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Originally Posted by mooby64 View Post
Use just the inner mount with a small bit of servo tape to keep the outer portion of the servo "floating" above the chassis. A small dab of Shoe Goo, around the inner edge of the servo, will allow the chassis to flex/twist, and keep the servo in place. Hope this helps.
OK so it will still allow more flex than using both mounts ! By the way I'm not bugging out over upgrading to a $15 r1 mount , just looking to learn the physics, thanks Mooby, so far everyone's been great to me here on rctech, RACE ON !
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Old 08-16-2014, 06:24 PM   #3232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Hi guys.
Im considering an S2 (over the Sakura)

A couple of questions
- Are the diff outdrives metal or plastic
- does it have CV's front & back (ie NOT dogbones)
- Will a silvercan/old school brushed motor actuall fit the motor mount. I know newer cars motor mounts are designed with Silvercans in mind.....
- Are the optional sway bars needed for low stock/silvercan racing ?
- How fussy is setup on this... Im really after a car that will drive well if the setup isnt 100% spot on. Its just a lack of time sort of thing, I just want to turn up & race, not spend hours finding the right setup.
Ive been out of racing for 3 years, but want to get back into racing occasionly, so dont want to spend big $ on a car that wont be used that often.

Cheers
Plastic outdrives, today I broke one. It took a very hard hit to do it, new track to me with substantial boards.
CV's, very decent.
I can not answer the silver can question.
I do not use sways, have had no issues without them.
I have ran the car at three different tracks, same setup. No issues.
Can not beat it for the price, ran it against some very good comp while travelling. Car was not lacking, loose nut behind the wheel.
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Old 08-16-2014, 06:39 PM   #3233
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Originally Posted by rtenzo02 View Post
OK so it will still allow more flex than using both mounts ! By the way I'm not bugging out over upgrading to a $15 r1 mount , just looking to learn the physics, thanks Mooby, so far everyone's been great to me here on rctech, RACE ON !
The great thing about the Spec-R cars is that parts are CHEAP. Buying the upgrade parts is a whole lot cheaper than Xray or Tamiya.
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Old 08-16-2014, 07:36 PM   #3234
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The great thing about the Spec-R cars is that parts are CHEAP. Buying the upgrade parts is a whole lot cheaper than Xray or Tamiya.
I agree and that's 1 of the reasons I chose this chassis, low dollar, designed well, and able to compete with the expensive brands.

Last edited by rtenzo02; 08-16-2014 at 08:52 PM.
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Old 08-16-2014, 08:24 PM   #3235
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Originally Posted by imajerky View Post
Plastic outdrives, today I broke one. It took a very hard hit to do it, new track to me with substantial boards.
CV's, very decent.
Have to clarify...plastic spool, metal out back.
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Old 08-17-2014, 02:17 AM   #3236
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Myself and my son changed to a gear diff up front as we broke numerous driveshaft joints with the spool. Now use one million thickness oil in the front diff without any problems.

The Spec R cars need setting up just like any car. The stock set up is fine, but you also have to consider driver style and track conditions which may need changes to the set up.
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Old 08-17-2014, 12:26 PM   #3237
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Just ordered myself a R1 Pro Spec kit.
Looking forward to the building part and driving the car.
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Old 08-17-2014, 03:13 PM   #3238
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addictedtoblue. when you are done I think you will change your name to addictedtored.
Enjoy the build
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Old 08-18-2014, 01:29 AM   #3239
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What is the number of teeth on the S1 diff pulley and front one way pulley? and yes its late and I don't want count teeth so I'll just ask if anyone knows.
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Old 08-18-2014, 02:46 AM   #3240
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What is the number of teeth on the S1 diff pulley and front one way pulley? and yes its late and I don't want count teeth so I'll just ask if anyone knows.
38
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