R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-11-2014, 11:13 PM   #3196
Tech Master
 
valk's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 1,989
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to valk Send a message via AIM to valk Send a message via MSN to valk
Default

cf chassis and upper plates, djcs which are lighter than the stock axles, ceramic bearings, lightest possible esc like a tekin rs 2 spec or hobbywing 120a spec. you would have to look at lightening electrics, which i think is too expensive to bother heh.
__________________
My stuff
| Team Associated - Reedy - Reflex Racing/RSD - ProAMPS RC |
My RC
www.irocc.ca - www.wcics.ca - www.vrcworld.com - http://proampsrc.com/ - www.teamassociated.com
valk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2014, 11:39 PM   #3197
Tech Regular
 
mrjudd77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 251
Default

filippimini. I would advise to get rid of the XeRun 2.0. I have had 2 of these go bad on me in 2 outings. Since replaced with the trackstar 120A ver 2 and can tell you it is much better. Also there are a few FDR calculators available on smartphones. They will help get the gearing right. The Trackstar 10.5 that I run in blinky likes to run at higher revs. This actually lowered the temp when I went from 75/32 to 75/36 dropped about 10 deg celcius.
__________________
HPI Sprint 2 Flux (second ed.) Porsche 911 GT3 (sold)
Spec-R S-1
Spec-R R-1
http://au.dollarshaveclub.com/ref/index/r/yc8/1wmmuv8/s/tx/cx/1/
mrjudd77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2014, 11:44 PM   #3198
Tech Regular
 
mrjudd77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 251
Default

big al. I have just switched to a micro receiver from futaba, it only weighs 4.5g compared to the original one which was around 15g. There can be savings in weight to be had from running a different battery. If you are using a 6000maH battery it will be heavier that a 5700maH battery. Just a couple of suggestions
__________________
HPI Sprint 2 Flux (second ed.) Porsche 911 GT3 (sold)
Spec-R S-1
Spec-R R-1
http://au.dollarshaveclub.com/ref/index/r/yc8/1wmmuv8/s/tx/cx/1/
mrjudd77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2014, 12:05 AM   #3199
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Australia
Posts: 286
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TxMike_64 View Post
I'm still learning about gearing, and brushless motors as well. I'm just getting back into TC since leaving in 2004... BUT... You can always go down on spur or up on pinion for a numerically lower ratio. You can turn up the timing on the endbell, or in the ESC to get a little more top end. But if you are running a Blinky class you can't use timing on the ESC. If you aren't running a Blinky 21.5 class, you can just go to a faster motor (17.5 etc).

A 21.5 is only going to go so fast....
Yeah, but its noticeably slower than the other cars in 21.5 blinky. I'm getting killed on the straights.

Quote:
filippimini. I would advise to get rid of the XeRun 2.0. I have had 2 of these go bad on me in 2 outings. Since replaced with the trackstar 120A ver 2 and can tell you it is much better. Also there are a few FDR calculators available on smartphones. They will help get the gearing right. The Trackstar 10.5 that I run in blinky likes to run at higher revs. This actually lowered the temp when I went from 75/32 to 75/36 dropped about 10 deg celcius.
What sort of FDR should I be aiming for?
The FDR calculation is easy, but I don't really understand its application. It the following right
Lower FDR= less torque more top speed therefore more heat produced
Higher FDR = more torque less top speed therefore less heat

Am I right in thinking that the more torque that is produced, the less heat?

Also, I can achieve the same FDR using different sized spur and pinion combos, for example
60t spur and 30t pinion = 3.800 FDR
70t spur and 35t pinion = 3.800 FDR
76t spur and 38t pinion = 3.800 FDR
80t spur and 40t pinion = 3.800 FDR

Is there any reason for choosing one over the other?


Will increasing the timing on the motors bell end also increase heat?

Filippimini
__________________
Ryan
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tamiya M05
Spec-R S1
filippimini is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2014, 06:04 AM   #3200
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Oshkosh, WI
Posts: 249
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
Also, I can achieve the same FDR using different sized spur and pinion combos, for example
60t spur and 30t pinion = 3.800 FDR
70t spur and 35t pinion = 3.800 FDR
76t spur and 38t pinion = 3.800 FDR
80t spur and 40t pinion = 3.800 FDR

Is there any reason for choosing one over the other?
Filippimini
Your main determining factor in choosing which of the varying combinations of spur & pinion to get to your desired FDR will be which set will physically fit in the car. The smaller the combo the closer the motor shaft and the layshaft will have to be and vice versa...the motor mount will only provide so much movement.

What I have done in the past, and I'm surprised I haven't found it mentioned any place before, is pick a pitch (48p or 64p and stick with it) then install any spur and the SMALLEST mating pinion you can while the motor is nearest to the layshaft/spur gear, count the number of theeth (spur + pinion) and you have the smallest tooth range that will fit in the car. Do the same process again but install the LARGEST pinion that will fit while the motor is the furthest away from the spur, add the teeth and you have the largest tooth range that will fit the car.

With this range (say 135 teeth to 145 teeth for 64p gears) you will know exactly which combination of gears you can physically install on the car and buy one size of spur and a range of pinions that might suit your needs for the FDR that best suits your track.

Speaking on FDR that fits your track, ask around and see what your trackmates are running for FDR. If your running the same then start looking at other things to change. You mentioned that your car is second hand, check the bearings & belts and make sure they're not causing any issues. I did some bearing maintenance & cleaned out the pulleys on a friend's car, he gained almost 2 tenths that very next race and dropped temps.

There's a bunch of little things to check. Keep trying different things...get in a routine and don't get discouraged.
Ropes is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2014, 08:20 AM   #3201
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 8
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
Am I right in thinking that the more torque that is produced, the less heat?

...

Will increasing the timing on the motors bell end also increase heat?
There are A LOT of factors that can be attributed to heat: if your gear mesh is too tight, if the bearings are dirty and binding, if the wheel nuts are too tight, gearing too high OR too low (some motors will run hotter at certain RPMs, and if you run it a bit higher will actually run cooler), ESC settings (timing, drag brake, braking schemes, neutral range)... and yes, increasing timing (software and hardware) will usually increase motor temp.

I wish I could find the article where they talk about adjusting gearing and ESC settings to balance motor temp and ESC temp. Some of it was counter the mainstream process.
TxMike_64 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2014, 09:01 PM   #3202
Tech Master
 
big al's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Olympia,Wa
Posts: 1,025
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by big al View Post
I need some advice from you guys.

I have an S1 that I ran this weekend in 17.5 (it was a beast by the way) and the only way I could get it down to 1380 grams was to use a shorty pack. I won a revtech 100c full size battery in a raffle, but can't find a way to get the car anywhere near 1380 grams. What's the secret. If I install a low profile servo and justock esc I only lose 15-20 grams. Which puts me around 1440. I already have about 95% of the screws changed to red aluminum. I previously used the car as a SS, so I never had this problem. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
I was able to hit 1430 with an electronics switch and aluminum wheel nuts. Upon closer inspection, I found that I only had about 50% of the screws changed out to aluminum. I then ordered some red anodized flat heads from fastener express and figure that I can drop about 25-30 grams more, which should put me in the 1400 gram ballpark. I can live with that.

On a side note, I was able to put in some very respectable lap times this last weekend against all the major Tc's. Schumacher, xray, AE, ARC... you name it. I was about 2/10's per lap off pace of the leader. A couple of crashes due to nervous fingers kept me out of the top 5 (personal goal). About a year and a half old and still performing.
big al is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2014, 10:58 PM   #3203
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bremerton, WA
Posts: 425
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Big Al,

I've been trying out some different things that might help.

Don't know if you've switched out turnbuckles to titanium. Steel ones weigh in at nearly 13 grams. What kind of body do you run? How much paint did you apply? The last one I painted, lightweight body, used a pearl white and lightly backed with silver (opaque up close, solid at distance. Bright for older eyes) Its a scale spec body, so heavier than TC. TC lightweight body and light on the paint is next up for my S2 TC. Last thing I was just searching for??? Battery weights. The pack I use is 307g, a 6600 mah. I'm trying to find those last 25g or so, just because. Chime in with your pack weight and mah/C rating if known. This seems like the easiest, most logical place to start.
imajerky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2014, 11:43 PM   #3204
Tech Regular
 
mrjudd77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 251
Default

Nano Tech 5800
Spec.
Capacity: 5800mAh
Voltage: 2S2P / 2S Cell / 7.4V
Discharge: 30C Constant / 60C Burst
Weight: 296g (including wire & case)
Dimensions: 138x46x25mm
Balance Plug: JST
Discharge Plug: 4mm Bullet-connector to your own custom plug
Model no: NC5800.2S2P.30
__________________
HPI Sprint 2 Flux (second ed.) Porsche 911 GT3 (sold)
Spec-R S-1
Spec-R R-1
http://au.dollarshaveclub.com/ref/index/r/yc8/1wmmuv8/s/tx/cx/1/
mrjudd77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2014, 01:42 AM   #3205
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Antwerp, Belgium
Posts: 869
Default

As i'm thinking about buying a back up car (SpecR S2) for myself and for my little girl to run it with a silvercan motor i do have some questions.

-Is it possible to mount the R1 motormount on the S2 chassis? (this motor mount is usefull when driving a silvercan)
http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=398
-What are the necesary parts that need to be upgraded to get the car to a good standard. (I was thinking about alu steering, suspension mounts, alu servo holder, alu shock body's and gear shaft bushing set)

I would like to use the car for silvercan racing and for using it with speedpassion ESC/motors.
So i'm searching for buying 1 car who is able to have all the above mentioned ESC/motor combo's without spending to much money.
addicted2blue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2014, 09:26 AM   #3206
Tech Master
 
valk's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 1,989
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to valk Send a message via AIM to valk Send a message via MSN to valk
Default

Everything about the cars is interchangable as the s2 only has very small changes. Skip he r1 servo mount. S2 one is pretty good. I ran one on my r1 pro asiloaned the stocker out. Happy with it.
Aluminum hinge blocks definitely as they adjust trackwidth as well. Don't forget to buy two sets of inserts.
Metal pivot balls. Tamiya ballcups, xray hard bumper maaaaybe aluminum swingrack but forget everything else.
You will prob want swaybars too. Lots and losts of posts in this tjread about upgrading s1/2. Seems someone writes this reply every week.
__________________
My stuff
| Team Associated - Reedy - Reflex Racing/RSD - ProAMPS RC |
My RC
www.irocc.ca - www.wcics.ca - www.vrcworld.com - http://proampsrc.com/ - www.teamassociated.com
valk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2014, 09:49 AM   #3207
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 8
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
-Is it possible to mount the R1 motormount on the S2 chassis? (this motor mount is usefull when driving a silvercan)
(URL)
I actually don't know about that mount. Inthe specs it says it must be used with specific top plates.... I dunno...
TxMike_64 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2014, 10:03 AM   #3208
Tech Master
 
valk's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 1,989
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to valk Send a message via AIM to valk Send a message via MSN to valk
Default

Has to be used with a type a or b top plate that has rhe hole near the.motor mount. If you want the center screw that is.
__________________
My stuff
| Team Associated - Reedy - Reflex Racing/RSD - ProAMPS RC |
My RC
www.irocc.ca - www.wcics.ca - www.vrcworld.com - http://proampsrc.com/ - www.teamassociated.com
valk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2014, 10:48 AM   #3209
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Antwerp, Belgium
Posts: 869
Default

Thx for the tips, i will look into it a little more and see if i would buy the S2 or the R1 pro spec version.
Cause when i do a quick calculation about the S2 chassis with all the needed option parts then i easily spend about 200 and a R1 Pro Spec costs about 250 and every needed part is in the kit.

If i would keep the S2 standard then it's a bargain, but when i would do some upgrading it will costs a lot more.
Normally i wouldn't mind doing that but the parts are not as easy to find as tamiya parts, cause of this i'm more into a R1 Pro Spec version over a S2.
addicted2blue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2014, 11:19 AM   #3210
Tech Master
 
valk's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 1,989
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to valk Send a message via AIM to valk Send a message via MSN to valk
Default

The s2 is only a viable option if you run it as it is in the box. If you want to get serioud with the upgrades, just buy a prospec. Lots of people buy an s2 for parts. At rc marts $84 that's viable but $129 stateside not so much.
Of course more shipping ect. Everything is relative.

An r1 pro and a few spares is a great way to get started in tc. S2 is fine in the hands of a decent driver but I actually wouldn't recommend it for a new person. Too many prep things needed to be done to make it its best.
But they have undoubtedly made a killing on the s1/2. No other reason to release a plastic version before a new full version.
__________________
My stuff
| Team Associated - Reedy - Reflex Racing/RSD - ProAMPS RC |
My RC
www.irocc.ca - www.wcics.ca - www.vrcworld.com - http://proampsrc.com/ - www.teamassociated.com
valk is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Team Losi JRXS Type-R Andrew Gray Electric On-Road 13454 07-11-2017 07:26 PM
2012 R.O.A.R Carpet Nationals andrewdoherty Electric On-Road 774 04-04-2012 03:26 PM
JR R1 Pro w/ case for sale... Sorcerer001 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 7 12-10-2004 11:44 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:50 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net