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Old 07-29-2014, 02:53 PM   #3166
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Had not thought about using 2 glitch busters
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Old 07-29-2014, 04:33 PM   #3167
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The capacitor on the ESC is essential for the proper operation of the ESC. A capacitor on the receiver is what people call a glitch buster and is to provide an amperage boost when the electronics draw too much current, causing brown outs.
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Old 07-30-2014, 01:59 AM   #3168
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New speedy and battery turned up today. I will take the caps off of the old one to utilise as a glitch buster in the new one.
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Old 07-30-2014, 11:05 PM   #3169
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I got a used S1, and looking thru the R1 and S1 manual, shock oil is #500 and diff oil is #1000. What is the equivalent in WT?
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Old 07-30-2014, 11:24 PM   #3170
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500 cst, roughly 40wt ae.
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Old 08-04-2014, 01:45 AM   #3171
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Hi guys,

I've been trying to find a comparison of the R1 and S1, but I can't really find anything.
The only half useful looking thing is this link, but the sound won't work for me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Us2nhvWzIfM

Can anyone point me to a comparison or explain the differences or similarities?
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Old 08-04-2014, 02:41 AM   #3172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
Hi guys,

I've been trying to find a comparison of the R1 and S1, but I can't really find anything.
The only half useful looking thing is this link, but the sound won't work for me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Us2nhvWzIfM

Can anyone point me to a comparison or explain the differences or similarities?
They're both essentially the same car but the R1 uses better materials.

The chassis, top plate and shock towers are carbon fibre on the R1, on the S1 they're the basic fibreglass.

On the R1 there's far more aluminium. The diff housings for example are aluminium whereas they're plastic on the S1. The same is true of the shocks.

Both cars share the same geometry and drive train. They both have the same diffs and CVD's.

The R1 Pro Spec offers a few upgrades such as the floating servo mount, revised top plate and the softer O rings in the shocks.

I've owned both an R1 Pro Spec and an S1 and found there to be little difference performance wise between the two.

They're both excellent cars, but the R1 is a bit prettier!
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Old 08-04-2014, 10:23 AM   #3173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
Hi guys,

I've been trying to find a comparison of the R1 and S1, but I can't really find anything.
The only half useful looking thing is this link, but the sound won't work for me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Us2nhvWzIfM

Can anyone point me to a comparison or explain the differences or similarities?
Hi, The Spec R cars are really good and the S1 can be upgraded which is what I did. I did a comparison of the S1 and R1 and this is on my blog which you can read at www.spec-r-racer.com
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Old 08-04-2014, 11:38 AM   #3174
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Default which shock springs to use

I have picked up an S2 and have enjoyed figuring out a good base set up that works for me. One thing I do not like...picking springs. I have used associated, RSD and Ride. No dice. I know that the shock towers were lowered but retained the S1's shocks. What have people been using? I tried some RSD Xray 20mm, the super shorties and they have worked ok but I'm looking for something in between.

One other thing. The S2 is heavy. I picked up a second one for scale spec and its about 100grams overweight. Has anyone figured the gram savings by using a lightweight body, say a tamiya GTR? I've been unable to find body weights from tamiya. Just curious. I am thinking of trying a shorty, just to try. The car is plenty competitive, as is. Just trying to see where the limit is.
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Old 08-04-2014, 12:11 PM   #3175
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the R1 is MUCH more consistant from run to run and in the building stages.. the bulkheads of the s1/2 have a weird shape to them that doesn't sit on the chassis properly. but i do like the keys they used to make sure everything aligns proper. you still need to spend time shimming to get everything perfect but meh.

friend of mine has had success using t4 short shock springs on his. others just use regular 23mm springs and adjust the lower hole locations to get the ride heights they want. i have to do this with my r1 to use stiffer spring rates.

as for weight, you would have to change out all the fiberglass with cf to see an appreciable weight saving. you would also be surprised how much lighter the aluminum parts are to the plastic ones. djcs in the front an aluminum cvds in the rear would help.

but.. thats expensive.. you might as well just get a R1 and use the s1/2 as parts car.
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Old 08-04-2014, 12:34 PM   #3176
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the R1 is MUCH more consistant from run to run and in the building stages.. the bulkheads of the s1/2 have a weird shape to them that doesn't sit on the chassis properly. but i do like the keys they used to make sure everything aligns proper. you still need to spend time shimming to get everything perfect but meh.

friend of mine has had success using t4 short shock springs on his. others just use regular 23mm springs and adjust the lower hole locations to get the ride heights they want. i have to do this with my r1 to use stiffer spring rates.

as for weight, you would have to change out all the fiberglass with cf to see an appreciable weight saving. you would also be surprised how much lighter the aluminum parts are to the plastic ones. djcs in the front an aluminum cvds in the rear would help.

but.. thats expensive.. you might as well just get a R1 and use the s1/2 as parts car.
Thanks for the reply. I'll check out the T4 short springs. The idea behind the car was to show a newly formed club that even the cheap stuff can compete, so I'm trying to keep the cost as low as possible.
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Old 08-05-2014, 12:53 AM   #3177
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I have been trying to show our well established club that the cheaper option is worth looking at. There are a few of us running the R1 and R1 pro. The only thing holding me back from this task is my lack of skill. I am improving though. From running at the back of the field for 2 seasons (HPI the S1) to running mid field this season with the R1 and a heap of improvements to setup and electrics. I would like to be sponsored by Spec-R one day. When my skill level increases. Hope this happens before I get too many more grey hairs.

On another note. I installed the new speedy and micro receiver plus a new nanotech battery. The car is heaps quicker and drives in a predictable fashion again. Happy Days. Speedy is a Trackstar 120A Ver2. 5800 nanotech battery. Futaba R2106GF receiver (only 4 grams)
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Old 08-05-2014, 05:03 AM   #3178
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If you replaced every screw with aluminum or titanium you'd probably save upwards of 50 grams. Also you'd be surprised how much extra weight a different set of wheels/tires can add or remove. In the winter I run on Sweep 32s and it's a full 20-25g heavier than the Blue Ride 32s I run on asphalt. Which works out for me because the indoor weight limit is 1400g while outdoor is 1380g, happy coincidences!
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Old 08-05-2014, 01:07 PM   #3179
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We have several spec rs deployed in our club at all racing levels. Presently the fastest guy runs an s2. I run an r1 pro but started with an s1.
There was and is always comedic chat about the parts quality and consistancy but that s2 wins.
We also have a rental program via speed passion powered s2s. The club has one or two to rent out and a few more for sale rtr for like $400.
Been successful so far.

I've simplified to just one full option prospec. Ill run it in mod for trophy races and stock for.club races.
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Old 08-05-2014, 03:14 PM   #3180
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I actually just made up a flyer for kitting out a spec-r S2 and it came in around $500. All new stuff, heavy on hobbyking items.The one stumbling point is speed control. Two speedos I am curious about...hobbywing juststock and the trackstar 120A. Any input?

50 grams? Wow...although, switching out to all titaniums would be outside of the intent of "The Cheepo". I have to say, I'm having a hard time buying into 50 grams...The tires make sense as well, but limited to HPI's for scale spec.
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