poeee

I measured everything up and compared to my Tamiya M-Chassis shocks (Tamiya 54000), and everything was identical. Good move, Spec-R.

AARC

Whats up guys...Ive Been out of the game for about 10 year, and I'm planing to make a comeback so my question is, at $289 is this car any good for the price?

valk

iTrader: (13)

199 pages says yes.

mrjudd77

HAHAHAHAHA You cracked me up Valk

AARC the Spec-R is a very good car for the money. Competitive against all other car types and does not need a lot of mods. Have a look through the forum here and then pull the trigger and get one. Also they are very durable and have lasted through my first year of racing.

Jorge T

iTrader: (14)

I use 3Racing Ti 28mm shock shafts, TRF pistons/ shaft guide parts, RSD O-rings, yokomo black bladders and TRF HL shock bodies.

DBM

As a noob, I put my R1 through a lot of abuse, and it has held up wonderfully. It has been performing well, and has surprised a lot of local guys who thought that it would be a pile of crap due to it not being an xray/serpent. I would not hesitate to recommend this kit to anyone. For the price, it is damned good.

AARC

Awesome guys, thats all i needed to here... Durable, affordable, competitive and a good looking car aswell, whats not to like...Thanks.

AARC

Is there anything i have to change from the stock parts to make it better, so that i just order everything in one shot..

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

for the R1??

basically, you'll probably want to get some of the Tamiya ball cups - everything else on the R1 is good

AARC

Awesome, and thank you...im sold to the car.. im ordering one today..

GasGod

iTrader: (4)

DCJ's?? or are they not needed w/ gear diff.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

sure, but they're aren't necessary to start with.

I've just (finally) added them to my TA05v2R after owning/racing it for 2 years - so it takes away the chatter, but not a real necessity

mrjudd77

You don't need the DJC's with a front gear diff. It is the spool that causes the chatter by not letting the wheels to spin at different speeds. I don't know how the DJC's fix that but a gear diff is a better solution

DBM

I think there are two separate things that cause chatter. One reason is the one you stated. .... the front wheels cannot turn different speeds, so might cause chatter in tight corners. The other cause of chatter is from when the stock joints are used outside of their usable range, they will chatter. If you have your steering set up with a lot of throw/lock, you'll have this problem. DJC's will fix it.

When I ordered my R1 ps, I ordered the 3racing djc's. They were cheaper than the spec r ones. I also ordered the tamiya ball cups, but I didn't order enough. Order two packages. I drilled holes in mine before installing them, so that the ball studs could be removed rather than popping off the ball cup.
I also ordered a pack of 5mm ID shim washers, and some spare c-hubs, steering blocks, outter pivot pins, and arms.
My kit didn't come with enough shock oil, so you might want to order an extra bottle

mrjudd77

Completely agree there DBM, that looks like the best start up list for the Spec-R R1. Replacing the stock alum turnbuckles is a good idea as they are a bit weak and can bend easily. I have a set of Ti turnbuckles that are a bit stronger. They are a little long though and are just short enough for me to get my car setup correctly. Will have to look at some others if I ever replace them. Also on my shopping list is a full set of Ti screws. Not to save weight, just for their strength.