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Old 04-30-2014, 03:31 PM   #2956
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R1 is the same. Just have to scrape the edges really nice.
I agree. I just used a piece of emery cloth to smooth out the edge where the piston came off of the tree.
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Old 04-30-2014, 03:57 PM   #2957
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I just hold my blade perpendicular to the edge and turn the piston with the shaft attached. Scrapes off pretty easy without scratching. They don't really fit that well ill admit but if the bottom is built right they work well.
Just make sure the channel is facing the oring.
One of.my.sets of shocks came with someone elses plastic bit in the bottom that was prob a halfmm too small. They floated around and though the shocks were ""smooth" they leaked worse than my old pancar shocks lol.
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:29 PM   #2958
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Just got home from Wednesday night practice. Ran the xray hard bumper for the first time. I'm not sure if I like it, and here's why. I think it doesn't absorb impact as well as the squishy bumper, so it transfers more shock into the chassis, causing tweak. I never used to have tweak issues with the old stock bumper, but I had tweak after almost every session tonight (and I don't crash nearly as much or as hard as I used to). I think I'll order a new stock bumper with my next tqrc order.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:45 AM   #2959
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I'm thinking of trying an R1 2.5mm chassis to reduce flex. The pro-spec is very flexible. Anyone swapped between the two baseplates that can comment on the differences they noticed?
I'm also thinking of getting some aluminum baseplates cut. I'm hoping to have a drawing done up in solidworks some time this week.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:06 AM   #2960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBM View Post
I'm thinking of trying an R1 2.5mm chassis to reduce flex. The pro-spec is very flexible. Anyone swapped between the two baseplates that can comment on the differences they noticed?
I'm also thinking of getting some aluminum baseplates cut. I'm hoping to have a drawing done up in solidworks some time this week.
Hi,

The thicker chassis is generally less aggressive and will have a smoother, slightly reduced steering characteristic.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:31 AM   #2961
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Sorry, but I disagree on the above statement, it's too much of a blanket statement.

A more flexible chassis makes the car stay flatter since a lot of the suspension movement is displaced by chassis flex. This can tend to make a car "mellower". A softer chassis can be easier on tires as well, as the suspension does not dig into the track as hard. A thinner chassis, leaving all settings the same will lower the CG and the roll center of the car by however much the chassis is thinner.

A harder chassis increases response. The suspension is more direct and the car will tend to "roll more" with the same set up. A harder chassis typically will have less overall grip but can carry more corner speed.

Typically they can both be made to work, but the more flexible chassis tend to have a wider tuning window, and are more usable across different conditions. Softer chassis tend to be preferred in low bite And high bite conditions (weird, I know, different ends of the spectrum), harder chassis find their home somewhere in between.

The spec R harder chassis have the new shape as well, they are very good. I woild not hesitate to try it with the soft top deck.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:34 AM   #2962
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Nothing wrong with a disagreement. My statement was a general statement and is what many of our team drivers have experienced exclusively racing on asphalt.
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Old 05-05-2014, 05:23 PM   #2963
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Hey fellas, will this fit the R1 bearings etc?.. I hope so to replace the brital plastic version that breaks on light taps..

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...y-t4t3-p-24538
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Old 05-05-2014, 07:07 PM   #2964
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Hey fellas, will this fit the R1 bearings etc?.. I hope so to replace the brital plastic version that breaks on light taps..

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...y-t4t3-p-24538
Don't know, but when you buy them and try them, be sure to post how they worked.
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:48 AM   #2965
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At last Sunday's race, I found that I could get hardly any droop in the rear with the upper shock mount in the innermost location. That explains why the car would get pretty loose in the decreasing radius corner at the end of the straight. Lengthening the rear shocks by three turns fixed the problem.
I made some changes to the electronics as well. I turned the esc 90 to move some of the wires out of harms way, and also shortened up all of the servo leads a bunch. The only downside to this is that the motor wires now have to cross over each other. Oh well.....it isn't a fashion show.
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Old 05-06-2014, 03:54 PM   #2966
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Just thought I would mention that the S2 is available from SpecR.
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:29 AM   #2967
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Just thought I would mention that the S2 is available from SpecR.
The S2 is so cheap, I almost want to buy one just to try out. :P Amazing what you can get for $120.

In other news, I was working on my r1 a bit more and found another two very crunchy avid wheel bearings, both in the right rear. I haven't had any bad wrecks lately, especially no big hits to the rear of the car. The avids in the driveline still work fantastic. I just placed an order with tqrc for the murfdogg abec 5 wheel bearings. Hopefully they last longer.
I also ordered the Sweep STC4 body. My LTCR body only has a few more weeks left in it, and my LHS only have GX's in stock overpriced at $36. Dag.
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:53 AM   #2968
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The S2 is so cheap, I almost want to buy one just to try out. :P Amazing what you can get for $120.

In other news, I was working on my r1 a bit more and found another two very crunchy avid wheel bearings, both in the right rear. I haven't had any bad wrecks lately, especially no big hits to the rear of the car. The avids in the driveline still work fantastic. I just placed an order with tqrc for the murfdogg abec 5 wheel bearings. Hopefully they last longer.
I also ordered the Sweep STC4 body. My LTCR body only has a few more weeks left in it, and my LHS only have GX's in stock overpriced at $36. Dag.
ouch!!! $36 for a protoform body... That's almost Tamiya prices, and Tamiya's are way more detailed

the S2 does look nice - a buddy of mine is building one at the moment..
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:05 AM   #2969
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$36 is just fine. Adding bodies to interweb irders adds $20 lol. Though great hobbies has them and offers free canada post if you spend $100. Might ve an option.
Also that's $36 cdn. A little high but my lhs is $32-33. If I only need one body whatevese its the taxes that annoy me.
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Old 05-07-2014, 12:34 PM   #2970
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I do like the convenience of being able to buy one locally, and I try to support the lhs when I can, but I was ordering some random goodies from tqrc anyways, so figured I'd add the $23 body to the order. Shipping for the whole order was $11. I kinda wanted to try the sweep stc4 body anyways.
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