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Old 04-03-2014, 07:29 PM   #2806
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I think it's the design combined with the plastic, not a good combination for sure. I broke mine so often that I literally carried several spares for each race night.
Yeh, would like to see them seperate the rear hub and steering knuckles which are sold together?? I never break a rear hub and have about 5 of them...lol
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Old 04-03-2014, 10:18 PM   #2807
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The number of rear hubs I have is obscene. Darrin the next time you're at Lou's come check out my parts box lol! It's sad how many I've gone through. I put a peice of kydex under my bumper foam and it's helped ALOT!
I thought a saw a picture somewhere of carbon plastic parts for this car. Maybe their Facebook page. I'll look into it more in the morning. I don't want to start rumours on an "I think I saw..."
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Old 04-04-2014, 03:08 AM   #2808
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I've had two S1 and now have an R1 and I have only ever broken one C-hub ever. I've never broken a suspension arm either. You guys must be more aggressive than me or your tracks are tight and unforgiving.
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:32 AM   #2809
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Thee has to be a way to sace the steerin blocks from failure,, always at the bottom screws. Maybe larger bushings with a urathane insert to give it a tiny bit of give if you crash?
I had like 4 steering bkocks abd broke 3 at one carpet race lol not even really hitting things. Just a swipe into a board sideways.
Might start using t4 blocks as its the only thing I break.
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Old 04-04-2014, 11:40 AM   #2810
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Aluminum bits for a 417 fit the front, but the rears need a larger diameter pivot pin to work.
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Old 04-04-2014, 12:09 PM   #2811
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Naaaaah. That's what a 12th scale costs. You csn get an s2 fir $119 though st tqrcracing.
Graphite and aluminum parts are pretty expensive. Even if they are made in china.
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Old 04-04-2014, 12:32 PM   #2812
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I'm still pretty new to the hobby and I still think $290 for a 1/10 rolling chassis is a heavy price.
Then you obviously still haven't seen one of these: http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...&pn=AWEA700EVO

Or even one of these: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDXHK&P=ML

Just sayin'
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Old 04-04-2014, 12:41 PM   #2813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Then you obviously still haven't seen one of these: http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...&pn=AWEA700EVO

Or even one of these: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDXHK&P=ML

Just sayin'
or this

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...s&pn=XRA300020

$290 is awfully cheap compared to some of the chassis out there
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Old 04-04-2014, 12:46 PM   #2814
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Use a peice of Kydex under your front bumper. It acts as a sort of deflector when you go Into a wall with the front wheels. Works awesome.
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Old 04-04-2014, 01:02 PM   #2815
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Even running races on foot probably cost as much as racing an R1, anything that you put the word racing in front of is going to be expensive. It's because racing brings in passion and competition, and these things cost much money. Probably the most affordable form of auto racing is Match box cars or pine cars.
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Old 04-04-2014, 01:03 PM   #2816
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I bought the pro spec as my first car. Compared to the price of the xrays, serpents, tamiyas, yokomos, the r1 is less than half the price. It is a heck of a good car at its price. Parts are cheap, too. Like has been said though. ....if you don't want to spend $240-280 for the r1/pro spec, get the S2 for $120.
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Old 04-04-2014, 01:05 PM   #2817
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Even running races on foot probably cost as much as racing an R1, anything that you put the word racing in front of is going to be expensive. It's because racing brings in passion and competition, and these things cost much money. Probably the most affordable form of auto racing is Match box cars or pine cars.
not too sure pine cars are too cheap anymore
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:02 PM   #2818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valk View Post
Thee has to be a way to sace the steerin blocks from failure,, always at the bottom screws. Maybe larger bushings with a urathane insert to give it a tiny bit of give if you crash?
I had like 4 steering bkocks abd broke 3 at one carpet race lol not even really hitting things. Just a swipe into a board sideways.
Might start using t4 blocks as its the only thing I break.
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Aluminum bits for a 417 fit the front, but the rears need a larger diameter pivot pin to work.
Xray Steering knuckles and a hard Xray bumper stops all this madness with broken steering parts....Like I said before. Or keep doing what you are doing...
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Old 04-04-2014, 09:03 PM   #2819
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do t4 blocks direct fit? t3 ones did and im using them. ill have to look at getting a hard bumper. i also broke a front body post so maybe stronger posts. id actually like to see about fitting vbc body posts as they are threaded for body adjustment.
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Old 04-04-2014, 09:52 PM   #2820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valk View Post
do t4 blocks direct fit? t3 ones did and im using them. ill have to look at getting a hard bumper. i also broke a front body post so maybe stronger posts. id actually like to see about fitting vbc body posts as they are threaded for body adjustment.
Yes the T4 steering knuckles are a direct replacement only thing is that you will need to use 1mm of shimming instead of the stock .5mm shim or use 2x .5mm shims to take up any extra space between the knuckle and the castor block. I run my car with a 1mm shim on the top of the knuckle. I have not broken any body post yet but I have also had the hard bumper on after the 2 week with the car when front end parts were just flying off at an alarming rate....X-ray hard bumper and X-ray knuckles = no worries.
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