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Old 03-27-2014, 11:58 PM   #2776
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I use the Velcro strap, but I don't like it, don't like tape for that matter either. I dislike the strap because it flexes the chassis, so my ground clearance under the battery is lower than under the bulkheads, and means my chassis is tweaked any time there's a battery in it. I'd like to devise a little clamp style holder someday that holds the battery but doesn't directly exert any force on it, keeping everything as free as possible.
I use the factory strap & velcro tape to hold the battery in, it has still come out (once), but if you use velcro tape you don't need to pull that hard on the strap.


Hey Marty, I'll be there tomorrow (weather permitting), I'll have the lowering kit but not the engine mount, I'm not racing, I'm playing chef again & I need to get some more info from the bike guys (mine is nearly ready to run).

I've got the ball diff in the rear of the ProSpec, I may do one qualifying heat, then put it away, I have to work a 12 hour shift on Sunday so won't be staying for the finals, hope we can get the R1 running faster than the old S1, by the end of the night.

Oh & change your freakin' signature , you now have a R1 & the S1. LOL
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Old 03-28-2014, 12:14 AM   #2777
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New Spec-R S2 kits Pre-Order is available at TQ.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product_view.asp?p_id=7718


FYI, Thanks.
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:22 AM   #2778
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Originally Posted by PEEKracing View Post
Well I'll check out his video. I'm sure they're built right. How much air? I don't know how to measure that, but when I compress the shocks, at least one of the four will make a squishy sound.

I use the Velcro strap, but I don't like it, don't like tape for that matter either. I dislike the strap because it flexes the chassis, so my ground clearance under the battery is lower than under the bulkheads, and means my chassis is tweaked any time there's a battery in it. I'd like to devise a little clamp style holder someday that holds the battery but doesn't directly exert any force on it, keeping everything as free as possible.
Like this one? RSD product
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Old 03-28-2014, 06:48 AM   #2779
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Like this one? RSD product
Indeed, is that the one marketed for Xray?
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Old 03-28-2014, 07:09 AM   #2780
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Yes it is the one for the XRay adapted to the R1.
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Old 03-28-2014, 04:03 PM   #2781
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That's a pretty sweet idea for battery retention. I might try to make something like that out of a peice of broken chassis and those chassis stiffening posts that come with the kits.
What I've seen a few other guys do to prevent tweaking the chassis is they use a small strip of servo tape at either end of the battery to help keep it from moving around and allows the strap to be a little less tight so as not to bend the lower chassis plate.
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:03 PM   #2782
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I might try motherboard risers. I baught like 50 to rebuild my desktop. They handy and scree into each other. Thus adjustable length.
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:18 PM   #2783
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Tuning Haus make Tape Eliminator kits for various cars and you might adapt one for the R1. I use one on my Mi5 and it works perfectly. TQ Racing sells them.
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Old 03-28-2014, 07:47 PM   #2784
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top plate broke.. sooo low cost lower tech

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Old 03-29-2014, 06:15 AM   #2785
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OK so went racing today for an all scales/ open day. The weather was stupidly humid after a week of solid rain. The track was slippery, like it was covered in ice on some sections. Made the new car very hard to dial in. By the end of the night (I cut it short and didn't run in the finals) I was having massive problems with it going random directions. I had one of the better drivers have a look at it (thanks to CountryHick) We have put it down to faulty electrics, either the servo or radio. Plus the shocks need rebuilding again as I lost 2mm ride height in the front and gained 3mm in the rear.
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Old 03-29-2014, 08:18 AM   #2786
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When my outter hinge pin broke, the car seemed to be going randomly where it wanted, also did similar things when the sensor wire wasn't plugged in right. It seems that it's not enough to plug in the connectors, you also need to seat each contact individually with a small blunt to, they seem to have an extra half mm or so that they need to be fully reliable.
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Old 03-30-2014, 01:30 PM   #2787
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RE: Spec-R S1

So, thanks for answering my question about the shocks; now I know what to look for.

What about a motor mount with some more adjustment to it?
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Old 03-30-2014, 02:58 PM   #2788
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Why do you need a larger adjustment? You should be able to get all the adjustment you need with what's already available. Pick a spur gear size that will give you the range of ratios you need with the pinions you have.
I've seen other people use a dremel and small bit to slightly enlarge the slots for a little bit more play.
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:12 PM   #2789
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Quote:
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Why do you need a larger adjustment? You should be able to get all the adjustment you need with what's already available. Pick a spur gear size that will give you the range of ratios you need with the pinions you have.
I've seen other people use a dremel and small bit to slightly enlarge the slots for a little bit more play.
Because I don't want to have to keep changing spur gears in and out to get the gearing I want/need. I've run all kinds of spurs from a 84-tooth (64-pitch) to a 108-tooth (which won't let me put in any bigger pinion than about a 30-tooth). Changing that spur gear in and out is a pain in the a$$. Hell, even changing the pinion isn't all that easy on these touring cars (when you're used to running pan cars...LOL)
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:28 PM   #2790
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What gear ranges are you looking for?
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