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Old 03-27-2014, 06:09 AM   #2761
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Do any of you find you need to top of the shock oil after just about every race day? I usually have at least one sick that got some air in it.
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:58 AM   #2762
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Now that I've owned the car for a few weeks, I've had it out to three practice nights, and one race day. I must say that I am RIDICULOUSLY IMPRESSED with the durability of this kit. My driving is pretty bad, and I crash A LOT (I'm a noob). The only issues I've had were: tamiya ball cup popped off of the right front c-hub, and the battery came loose from one end of the holder since I didn't strap it down tight enough with the velcro strap. The rest of the guys in my club seem to be decently impressed with the car, considering its price.

To any noobs considering getting a spec-r, do it!
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Old 03-27-2014, 11:11 AM   #2763
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Wow. Lol popping a tamiya cup must take some force.
Now that i think.of my failures, maybe I've just had the steering blocks tightened too much.
Maybe ill back the screws off and put a little locktite on there.

As for air in shocks... how much air? Never had tc shocks that were totally leakfree.
I usually refill mine every couple race days. Oil has been clean everytime so oring doing its thing.
Make sure the bottom cartridge is facing the right way.
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Old 03-27-2014, 11:16 AM   #2764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valk View Post
I follow chris graingers shock build procedure and get a perfect shock every time, even with the $20 spec r's.
I'd be curious to see this procedure ... any link to it?
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Old 03-27-2014, 12:16 PM   #2765
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Default Re: Velcro strap

I like them. The other guys (AE, Xray) look at my velcro straps with disdain and replace their tape every other run it seems like. Then at least once a race night, one of those guys loses a battery on the track.

Why such an aversion to the strap? They don't weigh that much. In the classes I run (VTA, USGT) I'm adding weight anyway.
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Old 03-27-2014, 12:19 PM   #2766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by .crispy View Post
I like them. The other guys (AE, Xray) look at my velcro straps with disdain and replace their tape every other run it seems like. Then at least once a race night, one of those guys loses a battery on the track.

Why such an aversion to the strap? They don't weigh that much. In the classes I run (VTA, USGT) I'm adding weight anyway.
I think its the perceived lack of security with with the straps.. i'd rather use tape because I know it'll stick to the battery, as opposed to just holding it

I know I probably won't use the strap and go with tape, but its just a perference
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Old 03-27-2014, 12:19 PM   #2767
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http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=srg9Glepzmk

To add to this procedure, ill loosten/tighten the caps to get rebound equal for a pair of shocks.
Once the cap is on and tight, very small adjustmebts to it are all that's needed.
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Old 03-27-2014, 12:22 PM   #2768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
I'd be curious to see this procedure ... any link to it?
I googled "chris grainger shocks rc" and a youtube video of Chris Grainger rebuilding shocks was one of the first results

Edit: I'm too late....oops!
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:15 PM   #2769
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Well I'll check out his video. I'm sure they're built right. How much air? I don't know how to measure that, but when I compress the shocks, at least one of the four will make a squishy sound.

I use the Velcro strap, but I don't like it, don't like tape for that matter either. I dislike the strap because it flexes the chassis, so my ground clearance under the battery is lower than under the bulkheads, and means my chassis is tweaked any time there's a battery in it. I'd like to devise a little clamp style holder someday that holds the battery but doesn't directly exert any force on it, keeping everything as free as possible.
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:24 PM   #2770
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Watch video. Do what he does and no air. In short. Fill abd bleed the shock fully. I find it quickest to have the rod all the way up, fill up to he brim, slowly drop the rod to dispose. Bubble. Repeat til shock at bottom.
Wait for air to bleed.
With oil right to the top; and your chosen reboud set, drop in the diaphram, float it around with a driver bit, seat the cap on the threads and push the plastic cap down as you do up the cap.
Once you have two, screw around with tightness of caps to get equal rebound.
I could do a video if it helps but I really just copy him lol.
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Old 03-27-2014, 09:19 PM   #2771
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Bout the only thing I noticed so far on the S2 that appeals to me is the top deck, looks like it would allow more flex than the S1 top deck. Like to see that design in a R2 carbon version. Jmo !
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:01 PM   #2772
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The lower chassis plate looks like the option chassis that came out for the r1. I have it and the standard r1 top deck on my 17.5 blinky touring car. It works awesome. The design should carry over to the s1 materials well.
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:18 PM   #2773
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I never understand those narrow chassis plates though. what would you rather have hit the ground? a cheaply replaceable peice of carbon fiber or your $90 motor, or $90 battery? lol.

nice to see them making updates to the car. however small.
will this mean a new r1 kit or an option upgrade to prospec kits?
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Old 03-27-2014, 11:03 PM   #2774
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wide chassis or narrow, you shouldn't have anything dragging on the ground. That's bad juju.
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Old 03-28-2014, 12:44 AM   #2775
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bring on the new SpecR R2. Can't wait to see the upgrade parts for the R1. I haven't even run my R1 yet but love the fact there are new bits on the way
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