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Old 03-23-2014, 07:53 PM   #2716
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Originally Posted by .crispy View Post
What doesn't fit?

The Tamiya ball cups seem tight, but they're perfect. You can adjust your linkages without the balls popping off.
There is still some play on my car using the tamiya cups. I've used the plastic bag method to take up some of the play, but I'd rather just get some that fit, preferably ones with an access hole in them so that I can remove ball studs without having to pop the cups off.
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:45 PM   #2717
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you can drill holes in the top just fine, but make sure you drill them from the inside, so you dont get a burr on the inside of the cup. if they are very tight, you could rub a little polishing compound on the ballcup and run the car a few times. toothpaste even.

I havent tried other ballcups, but the tamiya ones really are the cats meow on this car. and if you want it even tighter, put some orings on the ballstud before attaching the cup. i do this on my steering rods to keep them super tight. the servo has more than enough torque to cope with the extra resistance.
I dont bother with the upper arms though.
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:05 PM   #2718
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Thanks, Valk. I'll order more Tamiya cups and drill holes in them, and will buy some little o-rings.
There also seems to be slop in the king pins, as well as the steering blocks. The wheels can wiggle around quite a bit. I'd really like to remove more of this play/slop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by valk View Post
you can drill holes in the top just fine, but make sure you drill them from the inside, so you dont get a burr on the inside of the cup. if they are very tight, you could rub a little polishing compound on the ballcup and run the car a few times. toothpaste even.

I havent tried other ballcups, but the tamiya ones really are the cats meow on this car. and if you want it even tighter, put some orings on the ballstud before attaching the cup. i do this on my steering rods to keep them super tight. the servo has more than enough torque to cope with the extra resistance.
I dont bother with the upper arms though.
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:21 AM   #2719
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That's weird. I guess your only option is r1a120. Or snipe from another car
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:31 AM   #2720
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Originally Posted by DBM View Post
There is still some play on my car using the tamiya cups. I've used the plastic bag method to take up some of the play, but I'd rather just get some that fit, preferably ones with an access hole in them so that I can remove ball studs without having to pop the cups off.
Play is prob not coming from your cups but from the c-hubs. The little rod that goes in the lower arm that holds the c-hub seems to be a little thinner. This way you get play on the whole front. On the back it seems ok.

No idea how to fix it tho. Tried using a piece of bag around the rod but that isn't gonna fit
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Old 03-24-2014, 10:59 AM   #2721
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I dismantled the front suspension on the car last night to see where the party was coming from. The axle moves around quite a bit inside of the steering block, so I thought that maybe the bearings were a loose fit in the blocks. After disassembly, it looks like the bearings are a good fit in the hubs, and the play is actually coming from the bearings themselves. This explains why there is slop in the rear wheels as well. My car only has ~40 minutes of use, but I replaced the brains with new ones anyways, but the slop is still there. I think the factory spec-r bearings are just sloppy. I going to order some better ones and see how that improves things.

Quote:
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Play is prob not coming from your cups but from the c-hubs. The little rod that goes in the lower arm that holds the c-hub seems to be a little thinner. This way you get play on the whole front. On the back it seems ok.

No idea how to fix it tho. Tried using a piece of bag around the rod but that isn't gonna fit
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:10 AM   #2722
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...it looks like the bearings are a good fit in the hubs, and the play is actually coming from the bearings themselves...
Let us know how that goes, I did notice a lot of the slop was bearing related but it doesn't bother me running it in USGT enough to change them.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:17 AM   #2723
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I'll definitely report back on any difference that I notice. My setup system should be here any day, so I'll measure the slop before and after the bearing swap so that we have actual numbers to go from.

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Let us know how that goes, I did notice a lot of the slop was bearing related but it doesn't bother me running it in USGT enough to change them.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:23 AM   #2724
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Factory bearings definitely are garbage but you get a cheap car lol.
I definitely recommend replacing them. I like avid. Cheap and work very well.
Most of the steering rack slop is fixable with better bearings alone.
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Old 03-24-2014, 12:54 PM   #2725
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Factory bearings definitely are garbage but you get a cheap car lol.
I definitely recommend replacing them. I like avid. Cheap and work very well.
Most of the steering rack slop is fixable with better bearings alone.
Thanks for the confirmation about the stock bearings having a lot of play in them. The steering rack is pretty terrible.

Can anyone here offer feedback on the Yeah Racing ceramic bearings? The reason I ask is, I going to place an order for a bunch of stuff from tqrcracing this week, and the Yeah Racing ceramic bearings is what they sell.
I have Yeah Racing djc's in my car, and the 5x10x3 bearings that came with them have less play in them than the stock spec.r bearings, but still have some play in them.
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:33 PM   #2726
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I have tried ceramic bearings but found they were fragile and didn't last. I've used Boca Bearing one dollar bearings and they were OK. I have also used Team Blue Star blue rubber sealed bearings. The rubber seals are nice but do cause friction.

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Old 03-24-2014, 03:07 PM   #2727
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I've used avid $1 rubber sealed bearings in all my cars - never once had an issue

honestly, you can't beat $1 a bearing - especially if all its doing to do is 1/2 spin left, 1/2 spin right in a steering rack
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:37 PM   #2728
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Avid ceramic revolutions are very good. Not $1 but I ran those inside and outside on my serpent np.
Depends how much you crash. Touring cars don't shread vearings like pancars do heh.
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:47 AM   #2729
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So I have been performing surgery and setup on my recent purchase (thanks Wal). Whilst swapping out the motor mount I have stripped out the hex of 2 of the screws on said mount. Any ideas on how to remove these screws? I thought about gluing a hex key into them one at a time and trying to removing them. Might end up taking it to the LHS to have it cut off. The mount is cactus and the screws are also.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:44 AM   #2730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjudd77 View Post
So I have been performing surgery and setup on my recent purchase (thanks Wal). Whilst swapping out the motor mount I have stripped out the hex of 2 of the screws on said mount. Any ideas on how to remove these screws? I thought about gluing a hex key into them one at a time and trying to removing them. Might end up taking it to the LHS to have it cut off. The mount is cactus and the screws are also.
Button or flat head? Try vise grips? grind a slot for flat head screw driver? Try drilling out the head? We'd have to see where it is.
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