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Old 03-13-2014, 09:47 PM   #2611
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Yup, I got the USB programmer with it. I had read that the x-car series are indeed hobbywing xerun esc's with a hobbyking sticker on them, which is why I endured weeks of frustration by ordering from hobbyking's China warehouse (the American warehouse does not stock the x-car 60). :P While waiting for it to arrive, I got impatient and ordered the turnigy 120a turbo esc from the American warehouse, which is why the turnigy is in my R1. The x-car 60 will find a home in the S1.


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I'd assume the one I am using in my Tamiya M05 is a newer generation. Could be good luck, don't know. At $17, it's worth trying at least?



Get yourself the USB programming adapter from hobbyking. Not only does it work with the hobbywing software, it also works with genuine hobbywing v2.1 speedos (haven't tried anything else, might try my ezrun 35A speedo that we use in Mini here in Australia).
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:37 PM   #2612
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Originally Posted by DBM View Post
Yup, I got the USB programmer with it. I had read that the x-car series are indeed hobbywing xerun esc's with a hobbyking sticker on them, which is why I endured weeks of frustration by ordering from hobbyking's China warehouse (the American warehouse does not stock the x-car 60). :P While waiting for it to arrive, I got impatient and ordered the turnigy 120a turbo esc from the American warehouse, which is why the turnigy is in my R1. The x-car 60 will find a home in the S1.
I like this Spec-R thread. It's not full of people telling other people they need to spend hundreds on gear.
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Old 03-14-2014, 07:04 AM   #2613
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Yup, I got the USB programmer with it. I had read that the x-car series are indeed hobbywing xerun esc's with a hobbyking sticker on them, which is why I endured weeks of frustration by ordering from hobbyking's China warehouse (the American warehouse does not stock the x-car 60). :P While waiting for it to arrive, I got impatient and ordered the turnigy 120a turbo esc from the American warehouse, which is why the turnigy is in my R1. The x-car 60 will find a home in the S1.
The Trackstar 120a turbo is pretty good tho.. I've got both the 80 and 120 version. They work great. Gay at the local track was amazed what it can do vs his Hobbywing XERUN V3.1 Sensored 120A.

I'm sticking to Trackstar!
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Old 03-14-2014, 07:11 AM   #2614
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The Trackstar 120a turbo is pretty good tho.. I've got both the 80 and 120 version. They work great. Gay at the local track was amazed what it can do vs his Hobbywing XERUN V3.1 Sensored 120A.

I'm sticking to Trackstar!
now someone just has to submit them to ROAR for approval

all of the tracks near me and classes I run all require ROAR approved speedos
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Old 03-14-2014, 07:25 AM   #2615
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now someone just has to submit them to ROAR for approval

all of the tracks near me and classes I run all require ROAR approved speedos

I think they are working on that. At least for the new Gen2. Got no rules like that at our track hehe.
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Old 03-14-2014, 07:38 AM   #2616
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I agree. I've only been in the hobby for three weeks, but it became quite obvious after only one day that this hobby has a much higher than average amount of elitists compared to other hobbies that I am involved in (racing real cars, combat robotics, rc airplanes, photography). So many people are very quick to judge/bash other peoples purchases. It is quite a big turn off. So what if I run a $50 esc rather than a $290 one? So what if I can't afford a $400 radio and $130 servo?
I agree that in many cases, the more part will be better, but not always. Is an xray better built than the R1? Likely. But it's the r1 damned good for the price? Absolutely.


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I like this Spec-R thread. It's not full of people telling other people they need to spend hundreds on gear.
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Old 03-14-2014, 09:35 AM   #2617
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I agree. I've only been in the hobby for three weeks, but it became quite obvious after only one day that this hobby has a much higher than average amount of elitists compared to other hobbies that I am involved in (racing real cars, combat robotics, rc airplanes, photography). So many people are very quick to judge/bash other peoples purchases. It is quite a big turn off. So what if I run a $50 esc rather than a $290 one? So what if I can't afford a $400 radio and $130 servo?
the only thing I would argue with your theory is the radio. I've run the cheap ones and the higher end ones normally perform night-and-day above the lower end ones... but every thing else you said here I 100% agree with. just take a look at all the 'which is better then which' threads that pop up here - you want to talk about elitists

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I agree that in many cases, the more part will be better, but not always. Is an xray better built than the R1? Likely. But it's the r1 damned good for the price? Absolutely.
the R1 is definitely a great deal, even the S1 is (regardless of how many hopups you add). but in the end, the driver makes the difference - I've seen guys running cars that cost more then my car, but ultimately they can't drive and then they get pissed off and quit. all because 'someone' said you need this or that to be competitive and good. More people need to understand its not always the $$ dumped into the hobby that makes you good. its preparation and practice that make the good guys (and even moderate drivers, like me) better

run what works for you - regardless of how much it costs
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Old 03-14-2014, 10:32 AM   #2618
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I agree. I've only been in the hobby for three weeks, but it became quite obvious after only one day that this hobby has a much higher than average amount of elitists compared to other hobbies that I am involved in (racing real cars, combat robotics, rc airplanes, photography).
Its like that in any hobby. I've always said its a hobby you can control how far you take things. If you want the big wins then practice and open up the wallet .... if your just running a local track for a fun time then just buy what you need to use.

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I agree that in many cases, the more part will be better, but not always. Is an xray better built than the R1? Likely. But it's the r1 damned good for the price? Absolutely.
My R1 beat some pretty good Xrays its first season ..... and it got beat by some pretty good Xrays. Any car can be a winner
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:22 PM   #2619
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I agree with you that it is definitely the driver that makes the difference. I've taken down many faster/better prepared cars at autocross, mostly relying on being able to outdrive the other guys (I've been autocrossing for 15 years). When I was stock car racing, it was a bit different....I relied on spot-on chassis setup and car preparation, as well as smooth careful driving to be successful (I won two championships in two the two years that I raced stock cars).
Unfortunately I cannot rely on experience/skill to win rc car races...I have only 1 practice night of experience, and boy do I suck! :P

I hear ya about the radio. It is a mistake that I have made before (cheaping out on the radio). In my first combat robotics event (in 2007), I had nothing but radio issues. I was using an FM radio, while most of the guys had switched to 2.4ghz by that time. My radio worked perfectly fine at home, but at the event where other radios were turned on; my radio barely worked at all.

my first RC airplane came with a super cheap Spektrum DX4E radio. When it was working, it worked fine....nice and smooth, no glitches. But once in a while it would lock the throttle and throw full down elevator, sending the plane directly into the ground.

Now I have this cheap Turnigy radio, and it does seem to be the reason that my servo steers farther one way than the other. The end points can only be increased to 120%, but I think it would need more like 135% to correct the problem. The centering problem seems to be a combination of things, but likely not the servo. I think that the loose fitting ball cups and other slop in the steering is causing most of it. The kimbrough servo saver was likely contributing a bit, as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
the only thing I would argue with your theory is the radio. I've run the cheap ones and the higher end ones normally perform night-and-day above the lower end ones... but every thing else you said here I 100% agree with. just take a look at all the 'which is better then which' threads that pop up here - you want to talk about elitists



the R1 is definitely a great deal, even the S1 is (regardless of how many hopups you add). but in the end, the driver makes the difference - I've seen guys running cars that cost more then my car, but ultimately they can't drive and then they get pissed off and quit. all because 'someone' said you need this or that to be competitive and good. More people need to understand its not always the $$ dumped into the hobby that makes you good. its preparation and practice that make the good guys (and even moderate drivers, like me) better

run what works for you - regardless of how much it costs
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:32 PM   #2620
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I agree that there are elitists in every hobby, but this hobby seems to have a much higher concentration of them. If someone wants to buy a $700 car, that's cool. But they shouldn't knock others cause they don't want to invest the same money into the hobby, or chose a different car than the majority of the others use.
Most of the guys in my club run Xrays and Serpents. One of the guys just bought a Yokomo BD7, and before his new car even arrived, people were poking fun at him for buying a "Brokomo". Granted, it is kinda funny. Maybe I'm just sensitive, due to having always done things a bit differently than most, not just following the leader.

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Originally Posted by Robbob View Post
Its like that in any hobby. I've always said its a hobby you can control how far you take things. If you want the big wins then practice and open up the wallet .... if your just running a local track for a fun time then just buy what you need to use.



My R1 beat some pretty good Xrays its first season ..... and it got beat by some pretty good Xrays. Any car can be a winner
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:36 PM   #2621
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Anyways, I'll get back on topic.

I'm using Kimbrough spur gears. I had read that they are of good quality, and very true. However, both of mine are a tad off center. It made me think that it might actually be the plastic center pulley assembly that is causing spur to be off center. Anyone else have this problem? I might have to order the $30 aluminum upgrade.
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:48 PM   #2622
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I use Core or 3racing spur gears and they seem straight and true. The red alloy center shaft is soft and wears easily causing issues and I don't recommend its use. The stock center shaft works just fine.
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Old 03-14-2014, 04:41 PM   #2623
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Had our regular Friday night meet last night. Qualified 3rd and 4th in the Qualifying races. Was running 1st in the first final until I came up on some lap traffic and got run off the track with less than 20 sec to go. Stripped one of the rear turnbuckles. Finished 3rd after leading most of the race by half a lap. Oh well next time.
Changed wheels this week as well. Went up from 35 shore front and rear to using 37front and 40rear. Struggled a little for grip at the start of the night. Still I had fun and that is what really matters. Not how much is spent.

Side note. Speedy got hammered when I was punted by the lap traffic, so I guess I am up for a new one now.
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Old 03-14-2014, 07:23 PM   #2624
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I think we might be talking about different things. This is the part that I'm talking about:

http://www.rcmart.com/spec-sprr1h727...cPath=595_1576

I plan on keeping the stock steel shaft.



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I use Core or 3racing spur gears and they seem straight and true. The red alloy center shaft is soft and wears easily causing issues and I don't recommend its use. The stock center shaft works just fine.
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Old 03-14-2014, 07:27 PM   #2625
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Originally Posted by DBM View Post
I think we might be talking about different things. This is the part that I'm talking about:

http://www.rcmart.com/spec-sprr1h727...cPath=595_1576

I plan on keeping the stock steel shaft.
Yup....I must have misread. I use the red alloy pulley for sure but not the shaft it rides on. The stock steel one is fine and doesn't wear.
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