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Old 02-24-2014, 03:39 AM   #2551
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Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
I have a mix of Tamiya and Losi JRXs cups on my car. The problem is that the JRXs cups are not made anymore....sucks. Also the JRXs cups use a smaller size ball stud so you will have to change the ball studs to match. The stock ballstuds work fine with Tamiya cups. I think that I will be looking into TOP ball cups and studs to see how they work out they look like JRXs cups but I think have a larger ball.
thanks, Kevin

yeah, I know the losi ball-ends use a smaller ball - have them on my TCX, which were update to titantium, so I do have the standard HPI ball studs I could use

I know they were discontinued. I know I had an issue a couple of years ago, but I think I stock-piled a few bags. the nice thing, one bag could pretty much do a whole car

TOP uses 5.3mm ball studs - well, at least the Photon and Photon EX does - vs the 4.7 ball stud on the Spec-R
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:54 AM   #2552
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Well just to prove my statement about the outer hinge pins, this weekend I broke the right rear outer hinge pin! Ha! Serves me right I guess... but then again, one broken piece in 21 months of racing, is a pretty durable car I'd say!
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:08 AM   #2553
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Well just to prove my statement about the outer hinge pins, this weekend I broke the right rear outer hinge pin! Ha! Serves me right I guess... but then again, one broken piece in 21 months of racing, is a pretty durable car I'd say!
lol broke one too... damn... seems like if you buy a spare it just increases the chance of that part breaking lol! it does seem though that if the Grub screw holding them in is too snug they are more apt to break! I suppose they don't need to be tight at all just enough to get into the machined groove and disallow the pin from sliding out IMO... oh-well onto off-road for me! just ended a very satisfying carpet season with a $120 car running just as fast as the big dogs!
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Old 02-24-2014, 12:52 PM   #2554
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This might be a silly question, but can anyone tell me if the sakura xi sport (or the zero-s) arms/c-hubs, and/or steering blocks are compatible with the Spec-R cars? My gf wants a sakura (they are pink!), and it would be nice to not have to keep stock of a separate set of spare suspension bits.
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Old 02-24-2014, 12:56 PM   #2555
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The steering knuckles fit for sure. I have them on one of my s1 cars. I'm not 100% about the c hubs or arms though.
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Old 02-24-2014, 01:49 PM   #2556
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If you are OK with the parts changing the handling characteristics of the car then sure you could swap any brands parts with slight modification. Could always put spec-r parts back on her car. With swapping parts remember to check pin diameter and drive shaft length.
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:13 AM   #2557
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Update on Spec-r S1 race results.
I participated in a local indoor championships where the racers from several clubs came to meet. It would be considered a state/province level race.
I raced in the TC 17.5 blinky class, which had about 20 entries in the class. A - D mains were run with 6 racers per main.
I run an S1 with some upgrades:
- aluminum shocks
- sway bars off the R1
- double joint front CVD
- aluminum servo mount
- aluminum steering rack.
The electrics are some low cost options I got from HobbyKing. the motor was a D3.5.
My goal was to put together the lowest cost car that was still competitive.

After 6 rounds of qualifying I qualified 2nd, 1 lap off the TQ. Our top 2 cars were laps ahead of the 3rd qualifier( approx 4)
For the final I felt that if I could get a clean run I could challenge for the win. In the end the race was not all that clean and I finished 2nd.
The only changes I made from the box stock setup was a 1.3 swaybar in the rear as opposed to a 1.2, and 1 shim under the rear toe blocks to give a slight amount of anti-squat.
The S1 is a good working car in its stock form and can easily compete at a club or a state/province level race. I easily beat the best brands out there with decent drivers like Xray T3 / T4, Tamiya 417, Associated TC 6.1 and such. In this race the best driver did win, and I do not feel like the car let me down or could have worked any better. I left feeling if I had drove a bit better that this car could have won the event.
Even better, a couple cars broke and they used the spec-r parts to patch up their cars. the steering rack is a direct fit to the Tamiya 417, and the rear hubs were modified to fit an associated TC6.1

Last edited by lawton70; 02-26-2014 at 08:13 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:05 AM   #2558
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That's a good result lawton70 and proves how good the car is. I've ordered alu bulkheads and suspension mounts for our 2 cars, mainly for strength and accuracy as I feel after more than a year that the plastic parts were starting to wear and strip. I hope I find an improvement in the cars.
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Old 02-28-2014, 01:51 PM   #2559
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Congrats on the good results, lawton70. Where abouts in Canada are you located? What HobbyKing parts are you using?

I ordered some parts from HobbyKing to go with my R1 (fits in with the budget minded car). x-car 60a esc, 17.5t sensored trackstar motor, 5300mah nanotech lipo, turnigy trackstar TS-915 servo (these look really good on paper...time will tell if it will stand up to my crashing), and some other items. The package from the USA warehouse arrived today, and the lipo was missing. The package from China hasn't left China yet (my last order from hobbyking's international warehouse took 6 weeks to get to me.) :P

I've been trying harder and harder to order from North American Suppliers like TQRC, and my most recent experiences with HK is making the choice that much easier. If TQRC had stock of S1's, I could order my whole CTA/VTA setup from them.
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Old 02-28-2014, 01:57 PM   #2560
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Originally Posted by DBM View Post
Congrats on the good results, lawton70. Where abouts in Canada are you located? What HobbyKing parts are you using?

I ordered some parts from HobbyKing to go with my R1 (fits in with the budget minded car). x-car 60a esc, 17.5t sensored trackstar motor, 5300mah nanotech lipo, turnigy trackstar TS-915 servo (these look really good on paper...time will tell if it will stand up to my crashing), and some other items. The package from the USA warehouse arrived today, and the lipo was missing. The package from China hasn't left China yet (my last order from hobbyking's international warehouse took 6 weeks to get to me.) :P

I've been trying harder and harder to order from North American Suppliers like TQRC, and my most recent experiences with HK is making the choice that much easier. If TQRC had stock of S1's, I could order my whole CTA/VTA setup from them.
that servo looks pretty decent and its great that it's a low-profile server... plus the metal gears look pretty good too. might have to think about getting one of these for my S1
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Old 02-28-2014, 03:34 PM   #2561
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This is more a n00b TC question in general than a specific Spec-R question. I am installing the Sway Bars on my S1. Do the two grub screws that go in to the sway bar mounts on the bulk head get done up TIGHT? Or do they get done up just enough to allow the sway bar to move?
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Old 02-28-2014, 04:05 PM   #2562
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Originally Posted by poeee View Post
This is more a n00b TC question in general than a specific Spec-R question. I am installing the Sway Bars on my S1. Do the two grub screws that go in to the sway bar mounts on the bulk head get done up TIGHT? Or do they get done up just enough to allow the sway bar to move?
They are for eliminating slop. To set them, leave the swaybar disconnected from the arms. Then snug up the screws a little bit at a time until the swaybar doesn't drop easily under its own weight. Then back it off again until it does.

-Mike
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Old 03-01-2014, 12:11 AM   #2563
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
They are for eliminating slop. To set them, leave the swaybar disconnected from the arms. Then snug up the screws a little bit at a time until the swaybar doesn't drop easily under its own weight. Then back it off again until it does.

-Mike
Excellent! Thanks.
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Old 03-01-2014, 02:05 AM   #2564
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I ran a front diff with 1,000,000 cst oil in it last night and it was amazing. The car felt like it was on rails.

The diff can move a little bit more than it can with putty in it and it's perfect for the tight track we race on. It also helps eliminate chatter at full lock.

The oil is disgusting though! It's so thick that it's hard to it get into the diff! It came with a syringe but it still ended up going everywhere. I'm not looking forward to the day I need to open it up!
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Old 03-01-2014, 06:26 AM   #2565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lawton70 View Post
Update on Spec-r S1 race results.
I participated in a local indoor championships where the racers from several clubs came to meet. It would be considered a state/province level race.
I raced in the TC 17.5 blinky class, which had about 20 entries in the class. A - D mains were run with 6 racers per main.
I run an S1 with some upgrades:
- aluminum shocks
- sway bars off the R1
- double joint front CVD
- aluminum servo mount
- aluminum steering rack.
What aluminum shocks are you running?
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