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Old 02-11-2014, 05:27 AM   #2476
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Ive had my R1 for about a month now and must say wow very impressed. Ive had my S411 going on 3 seasons and still enjoy the car but this one has just been consistent right out of the box. I wanted a car to tinker with and have for a back up so for the price I think the R1 is perfect performer.

Took a couple of long practice nights to work things out with it - learn what it liked and didnt like. Dug around on the net looking at various setups from different drivers and cars and decided to go with Josh's setup from his R10 at Horsham Nationals. Ya a little cross breeding but it felt good and gave me a base line to start with.

I changed all four suspension arms over to the ARC R10 for two reasons. Price, you cant go wrong getting all 4 arms for 14$ .... Hard or Normal. I get more shock holes and length matches. Other reason was strength of the material and they use the bigger hinge pins like others mfg's. I also changed my C's and knuckles over to Xray. After a normal board meeting (yeah I dont hide I smack crap lol) I broke the stock C and didnt like the look of the break. Just a bit more brittle for my liking and the Xray stuff fit right in. Other then that everything else is SpecR on the car - minus the Xray low friction belts that dropped right in.

After a night of running I found that all Ive really changed from the R10 setup was my upper links. I lowered the rear .5mm and the front 1mm while also moving the front to the outer hole on the bulkhead. WOW! The car felt more planted for my local low traction track.

The kit came with the Type A upper deck but I also bought the other normal 2.0 upper deck just to try. In my hands the Type A felt softer, more flex to it compared to the other. I was looking to get more corner speed out of the car, little more snap to its rotation so I decided to try the normal upper deck. The car felt instantly responsive, not twitchy but agressive with consistency. FAST! Almost to the effect that the chassis was able to flex but the top deck helped bring it back flat.

My first real race weekend with the car on the clock was impressive to say the least. By the days end and with very little changes I was already 4secs faster then my S411, same battery and lipo. Im not knocking my Serpent, that car is fast and capable but I just feel like the R1 is more predictable and consistent.

This past weekend I raced our trophy race and again the car was just top notch performing. Early morning the track was LOOSE and I played with all different scenarios in setups just trying to find a safety net for track change and learn more about the car. I found myself going back to my baseline everytime and the car just getting better. The car was following the track and getting faster with it. For our third round I was digging for just a bit more onpower exit steering and looking for a way to calm it down on entrance but not loose it. A half degree of camber out on the front was my try and what a difference it made for me. I was on the same lap but 3secs behind TQ for the day - 3secs is alot but I will take it since only 3 people have run 35 laps on our track so far and now Im one of the three.

Sorry for the long winded post - I tend to do this at times but I just wanted to give an honest opinion on the car. For the $$ you cant go wrong with wanting a contender out of the box in the R1. After a little cross breeding with arms, C's and knuckles this thing is a monster for me. (still has the loose nut behind the wheel but hes happy)
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Old 02-11-2014, 07:56 AM   #2477
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Nice write up! Xray T3 parts I assume?
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Old 02-11-2014, 08:07 AM   #2478
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Nice write up! Xray T3 parts I assume?
Yup.
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Old 02-13-2014, 07:28 PM   #2479
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Can someone explain the differences in the 2 gear diffs, spr-r1p320 and spr009-xr. What are the benefits of each ? Thanks !
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Old 02-13-2014, 07:49 PM   #2480
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Hi
The difference that I can see is that the spr009-xr is the XRay Diff and the spr-r1p320 is the stock SpecR R1 diff. As far as any other differences they should be identical, maybe someone else can confirm this. I would use the SpecR R1 diff.
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Old 02-13-2014, 08:14 PM   #2481
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The description for each says it will fit both chassis but thats all it says. Why would someone choose one or the other ?
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Old 02-13-2014, 10:15 PM   #2482
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Hi
The difference that I can see is that the spr009-xr is the XRay Diff and the spr-r1p320 is the stock SpecR R1 diff. As far as any other differences they should be identical, maybe someone else can confirm this. I would use the SpecR R1 diff.
Doesn't the Spec-R diff have internal bearings that the Xray does not?
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Old 02-13-2014, 10:35 PM   #2483
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Doesn't the Spec-R diff have internal bearings that the Xray does not?
I think you're right about that. The spec-r tc6 gear diff have it either. The bearing really are a nice touch.
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Old 02-13-2014, 11:19 PM   #2484
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If it fits, I'd strongly recommend an actual xray diff. They are spendy, but they are really That Good (TM).

-Mike
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:02 AM   #2485
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If it fits, I'd strongly recommend an actual xray diff. They are spendy, but they are really That Good (TM).

-Mike
I'm not going to disagree with that. I do remember Steve and Jeff both commenting that they ran 5K diff oil in the Spec-R diff because of the internal ball bearings, as opposed to 3K in "other" onroad diffs. They said it just had less internal resistance.
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:56 AM   #2486
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I'm not going to disagree with that. I do remember Steve and Jeff both commenting that they ran 5K diff oil in the Spec-R diff because of the internal ball bearings, as opposed to 3K in "other" onroad diffs. They said it just had less internal resistance.
For me it's more a matter of build quality, leakage, and consistecy. I ran specr diffs in my schuis, and they got the job done, but they were fiddly to build. I've built like 4 xray diffs, and you can literally just slap it together and it's perfect.

I'm not suggesting replacing a good working specr diff. But if, say, you're buying a front diff, consider getting an xray for the rear and using the kit one in front.

-Mike
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Old 02-14-2014, 03:17 AM   #2487
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
For me it's more a matter of build quality, leakage, and consistecy. I ran specr diffs in my schuis, and they got the job done, but they were fiddly to build. I've built like 4 xray diffs, and you can literally just slap it together and it's perfect.

I'm not suggesting replacing a good working specr diff. But if, say, you're buying a front diff, consider getting an xray for the rear and using the kit one in front.

-Mike
I've discussed this with Xray drivers and they have NEVER had to replace gears. I have had gears wear out on both our Spec R gear diff's, but only in the front. I would suggest using the Xray gear diff in the front, or try the Spec R carbon gears which is what I have in now.
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Old 02-14-2014, 04:52 AM   #2488
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I've been running my R1 for almost a year now and still using the original seals and carbon gears in the diff. I've changed oil multiple times and about a month ago I changed the paper seal as a precaution. The bearings in the outdrives make it very consistent and smooth.
In my experience overfilling a gear diff is the major cause of a leaking diff.
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:08 AM   #2489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
For me it's more a matter of build quality, leakage, and consistecy. I ran specr diffs in my schuis, and they got the job done, but they were fiddly to build. I've built like 4 xray diffs, and you can literally just slap it together and it's perfect.

I'm not suggesting replacing a good working specr diff. But if, say, you're buying a front diff, consider getting an xray for the rear and using the kit one in front.

-Mike
Didn't one of your Xray diffs explode in mod a few months ago?

Seriously, though, you've seen me abuse my R1 and I have had no diff issues *knocks on wood*. As far as I know I'm running the stock internal gears, though I got the cars/diffs used so maybe they're carbon gears. The diffs DO leak when overfilled, but once they settle into the appropriate oil level they're fine. I've checked my rear (5K oil) recently after weeks of running and it was still happily filled.

You guys should see the junk that TLR calls a gear diff. Holy cow was that thing horribly built and leaky
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:20 AM   #2490
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the r1 diff requires thicker oil as it spins so free. i ran 3k most of the time (17.5 motor, low-medium traction carpet.
would recommend 4-5k if running hotter motors than 17.5, or on high traction carpet.

i couldnt get my diff to stop leaking, so i would recommend the xray diff, pricey but its good
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