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Old 01-21-2014, 04:51 PM   #2431
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Originally Posted by JimmyMack12 View Post
With running these Touring cars (and not sure if it's just this one, or most all TC's), do you *always* have to take off the top deck just to change a pinion? or, is it safe to cut a notch just above the pinion to get to the set screw?
No, turn the car upside down, loosen off the grub screw through the big oval cutout in the bottom of the chassis and then slide the pinion out. This will only work upto about 35 or 36T pinions anything bigger and well you have to remove 1/2 the top deck screws to get enough room to remove the pinion.
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:00 PM   #2432
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Or unbolt the motor and slide it out until the pinion falls off. You have to unscrew it anyways to re-adjust mesh.Thats what I do.
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:24 PM   #2433
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Or unbolt the motor and slide it out until the pinion falls off. You have to unscrew it anyways to re-adjust mesh.Thats what I do.
This.

Loosen the set screw while you still are meshed. Then the motor screws and pull the motor part way out. Pinion pops off.

Put the new pinion on the unmounted motor shaft and temporarily tighten. Remount the motor and set mesh and re-adjust pinion.
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:07 AM   #2434
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I think there is a hole in the main chassis deck to access the pinion screw...
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:58 AM   #2435
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Interesting discussion on the reliability of the car. My 11 year old son and myself have ran the S1 for a year now. Last week we visited a new club which has quite firm and rigid track barriers. He had a big crash and broke a C hub and stripped the front screws on the front plastic bulkheads. That is all we've broken through crashes in a year of racing. That's quite impressive for any car. We did go through a few driveshafts when we ran the spool, but that problem has gone now we're running gear diffs up front. A club mate recommended putting alloy bulkheads on the bottom only, and after the crash I might consider it.
We need to remember that it is a $80 - $100 car, but even with some upgrades is still a very cheap car. I bought one for spares as it is such a cheap option and am considering two more for possible outdoor racing in the summer. I believe that it is a competitive car and I am achieving better times than ever. It's an easy car to drive and set up and with my driving ability I don't think I'll achieve better times with a top end car.
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Old 01-23-2014, 01:18 AM   #2436
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Sounds more like the typical response 32819toon. These cars are almost indestructable. For about $20-$40 over the basic cost of the original chassis they can be made tougher than SuperMan. Replace Turnbuckles and Ballcups/studs, Front gear diff and Bulkheads. Job done.
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Old 01-23-2014, 02:43 AM   #2437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32819toon View Post
Interesting discussion on the reliability of the car. My 11 year old son and myself have ran the S1 for a year now. Last week we visited a new club which has quite firm and rigid track barriers. He had a big crash and broke a C hub and stripped the front screws on the front plastic bulkheads. That is all we've broken through crashes in a year of racing. That's quite impressive for any car. We did go through a few driveshafts when we ran the spool, but that problem has gone now we're running gear diffs up front. A club mate recommended putting alloy bulkheads on the bottom only, and after the crash I might consider it.
We need to remember that it is a $80 - $100 car, but even with some upgrades is still a very cheap car. I bought one for spares as it is such a cheap option and am considering two more for possible outdoor racing in the summer. I believe that it is a competitive car and I am achieving better times than ever. It's an easy car to drive and set up and with my driving ability I don't think I'll achieve better times with a top end car.
Was your lad racing at Crewe? Blue body? I think he was in my race!

Unfortunately nobody else at Crewe runs the car other than myself.

It was an amazing track on Friday, it's just a shame we race on it every week!
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:03 AM   #2438
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I'm setting up my car in preparation of our next race day and I am considering trying some anti-squat in the rear. My goal is to get some more on throttle steering and make the car a little looser on corner entry.
Has anyone tried the anti-squat spacers on the S1? Does this make a dramatic change or is it subtle?
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Old 01-23-2014, 12:05 PM   #2439
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Can anyone who had the old 2.5mm chassis and use now the 2.2mm one tell me what the difference on the handling you feel? Thanks
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Old 01-23-2014, 01:49 PM   #2440
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Can anyone who had the old 2.5mm chassis and use now the 2.2mm one tell me what the difference on the handling you feel? Thanks
Well, I have the S1 and its chassis and I have the new R1 Pro Spec and I race on low grip carpet.

I can't get the R1 to handle. Don't know if it is the additional flex or what. I've copied the setup from the S1 and gone on from there. Hooks really bad on exit.

FWIW, when I go to other high grip carpet tracks I put on "sticker" tires and the R1 is money.
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Old 01-24-2014, 11:02 AM   #2441
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Originally Posted by daveaustin5 View Post
Was your lad racing at Crewe? Blue body? I think he was in my race!

Unfortunately nobody else at Crewe runs the car other than myself.

It was an amazing track on Friday, it's just a shame we race on it every week!
yes that was him, I was in the same heat, multi-coloured striped body. I missed the start of the first heat, and after his crash, my lad ran my car in round 3. I was a lap off the pace in round 2. At our club we race on a low grip carpet using wet tyres, and I found it difficult on the high grip one using Sorex 28's. No one at our club uses the Spec R either.

Crewe was great & we might visit again.
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Old 01-24-2014, 03:04 PM   #2442
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Originally Posted by 32819toon View Post
yes that was him, I was in the same heat, multi-coloured striped body. I missed the start of the first heat, and after his crash, my lad ran my car in round 3. I was a lap off the pace in round 2. At our club we race on a low grip carpet using wet tyres, and I found it difficult on the high grip one using Sorex 28's. No one at our club uses the Spec R either.

Crewe was great & we might visit again.
Three spec r's in one race, must be a UK record!

Crewe is a great club. Decent track, good pitting and well run. There's some really decent people there.
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Old 01-25-2014, 04:24 PM   #2443
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Ran the 2 cars last night at the England Park I/C meet, the R1 was driven by a regular gas tourer driver, I drove the ProSpec, both cars made the main, the R1 ran 2nd & 3rd, I ran 5th & 6th in the PS.

We run 2 five (5) minute finals in SSF, super stock foam, which is 1/10th electric with 10.5t std motors on foam tyres outdoors, usually at night so track can get quite damp at times & the surface temperature can change.

No breakages on the night again, I did step the PS out onto the damp grass & gave one of the metal barriers a fairly good side swipe, it popped the rear body clip undone but otherwise it appears to have suffered no damage.

Now to 'tune' some of the handling characteristics of the PS, up until now I haven't had the speedie set up properly, so I was giving away about 5 car lengths down each straight, catching maybe a 1/2 a car length through each series of esses, one of our committee took a few minutes out of his very busy schedule to show me how to set it up.

I have no excuses now, except for my lack of driving skills, which I'll be addressing, just need more track time, but that will come.
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Old 01-26-2014, 02:38 PM   #2444
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Good to hear that you are running consistently Wal. I will be playing around with gear ratios for the next meet as I also give about 5-6 lengths on the straight. Also need to fine tune the esc. Got to remember to keep it in 'blinky' though. And some new tyres as well. Might have to do some testing this week before race day.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:36 PM   #2445
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Good to hear that you are running consistently Wal. I will be playing around with gear ratios for the next meet as I also give about 5-6 lengths on the straight. Also need to fine tune the esc. Got to remember to keep it in 'blinky' though. And some new tyres as well. Might have to do some testing this week before race day.

I've now got an app loaded on my smart phone which gives gearing, etc, got the SpecR loaded, so if you need to, just come grab the phone, change it back afterwards if you want to keep your settings private, it's there if you need it.

I have to thank Steve H (shanwright) for spending 5 minutes of his valuable time (he was running the meet, driving, doing the food & helping others out) helping me set the limits on the speedie, the car was so slow because I was only getting half throttle & had no brakes, think it's pretty close to the mark now.

Many thanks to everybody else who had a few minutes 'pause' at the end of the meal break whilst Tez set it all up for me, nobody complained, it was a late night so doing those settings slowed everybody up for a little bit.

Once I'm used to the std SP 10.5t motor, I'll be fitting the SP MMM 10.5t motor which should give me a few more GG's, hopefully both the Team FTR SpecR's can deliver some good results by about halfway through the season.


I'm ordering a whole bunch of 'go fast' parts this week, ti screw sets, double cardan joints, al centre pulley, spring sets & a set of Yeah racing shocks. Found a supplier of aluminium front arm assemblies for a different brand to look very close, will maybe order them to see if they'll fit , they won't save weight but they will make setting the car precisely a little easier & may make the front end a little more durable. Also have plans to upgrade the R1 to current ProSpec chassis sizes, not sure why I want to make the R1 any faster as to date it's proved a quicker car than the ProSpec that I'm driving. I just want to get both cars up the front, proving that it isn't the size of the dog in the fight, but the size of the fight in the dog.

Last edited by OldfartWal; 01-26-2014 at 10:46 PM. Reason: spelling errors
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