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Old 01-20-2014, 06:26 AM   #2416
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Just in the last two pages. Not trying to be a ass here, but I stated the problems I had with the car and that in my eyes it was crap. Then I get hit up for my driving ability.

Just the last two pages....
You'd probably see similar issues in most of the dedicated car threads on this forum.

It's not fair to expect Xray quality for $80.

It isn't a Tamiya/Xray but it can hang with them for a fraction of the price. Ball cups aside, it's as robust as anything I've previously run.

People probably attacked your driving skills because your messages were confrontational.

Moving on, I ran mine on Friday with a gear diff in the front. It solved all of my under-steer problems and the car felt absolutely planted.
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Old 01-20-2014, 07:23 AM   #2417
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Originally Posted by daveaustin5 View Post
You'd probably see similar issues in most of the dedicated car threads on this forum.

It's not fair to expect Xray quality for $80.

It isn't a Tamiya/Xray but it can hang with them for a fraction of the price. Ball cups aside, it's as robust as anything I've previously run.

People probably attacked your driving skills because your messages were confrontational.

Moving on, I ran mine on Friday with a gear diff in the front. It solved all of my under-steer problems and the car felt absolutely planted.

I agree and since I no longer own the car I will refrain from commenting on it. I will say that if you need parts for it, TQ racing is a awesome online store that has loads of parts for these cars.
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:38 AM   #2418
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Originally Posted by daveaustin5 View Post
You'd probably see similar issues in most of the dedicated car threads on this forum.

It's not fair to expect Xray quality for $80.

It isn't a Tamiya/Xray but it can hang with them for a fraction of the price. Ball cups aside, it's as robust as anything I've previously run.

People probably attacked your driving skills because your messages were confrontational.

Moving on, I ran mine on Friday with a gear diff in the front. It solved all of my under-steer problems and the car felt absolutely planted.
What weight oil did you use in the front diff?
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:46 AM   #2419
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What weight oil did you use in the front diff?
To be honest, I've just used the standard oil that comes with the kit as it's all I had.

I'll probably test different ones when I get a chance.

The track that we run is pretty tight and I was really struggling with the spool. I find the gear diff allows me to be far more aggressive.
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:56 AM   #2420
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I've got 500,000 in one front gear diff and 1,000,000 in another on a different car.

I think it gives me the best mix of spool and diff.
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Old 01-20-2014, 02:23 PM   #2421
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Originally Posted by mrjudd77 View Post
Yeah Kevin what would you know newbie. LOL
I solved this problem with the lower screw coming out of the steering block by glueing the screw in. It was a temporary fix.

This was on a part that was about 12 months old!

Moving on...

Also changed over to a front gear diff, running 300000 in it. After running a spool front I have gone back to a gear diff and have found that the turning is alot better. Now need to tighten up the loose nut behind the steering, lol
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:20 PM   #2422
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Originally Posted by daveaustin5 View Post
You'd probably see similar issues in most of the dedicated car threads on this forum.

It's not fair to expect Xray quality for $80.

It isn't a Tamiya/Xray but it can hang with them for a fraction of the price. Ball cups aside, it's as robust as anything I've previously run.

People probably attacked your driving skills because your messages were confrontational.

Moving on, I ran mine on Friday with a gear diff in the front. It solved all of my under-steer problems and the car felt absolutely planted.
are u using drag brake with a spool??

a racer told me not to let off the throttle with a spool, but to lightly blip the throttle when turning, so that the steering wld be smoother and faster... also, if using 17.5T motor, drag brake is not necessary... for mod class, would be a different story..

coming from a off road background, i'm still trying to get the hang of it...
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:26 PM   #2423
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are u using drag brake with a spool??

a racer told me not to let off the throttle with a spool, but to lightly blip the throttle when turning, so that the steering wld be smoother and faster... also, if using 17.5T motor, drag brake is not necessary... for mod class, would be a different story..

coming from a off road background, i'm still trying to get the hang of it...
I don't use drag brake.

We race 13.5 on a tight indoor track.

I can understand using a spool on a large flowing track but they're useless in my circumstances. The wheels are just fighting each other and the result is the car struggles badly on initial turn in.
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:04 PM   #2424
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I don't use drag brake.

We race 13.5 on a tight indoor track.

I can understand using a spool on a large flowing track but they're useless in my circumstances. The wheels are just fighting each other and the result is the car struggles badly on initial turn in.
oic... i've yet to tried it on an actual track yet, cept in the parking lots with some cans as imaginary lines... and i am getting quite abit of understeer.. thought it was just me...

would run it at a local track first and see how it goes from there..
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:03 PM   #2425
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I'm running 2 cars, a new Pro Spec myself & a R1 for 'guest' drivers, grand total of damage running both cars on Saturday during a race meeting.

1 lost wheel nut
1 burnt out 10.5t motor
1 lost pinion gear
1 broken transponder mount (embarrassing moment, run head on into a 2 inch thick wooden barrier that hadn't been removed from the track cut out, I just turned in without even looking. lol).


That's it.

One car ran 5th & 6th in the B main, the other 2nd & 3rd in the C main.


Yep, they are obviously easily broken.




Obviously you didn't read my post before deciding to 'quote' it or English is a second language to you.


All the parts listed, none are factory parts, transponder is MyLaps, wheel nuts were aftermarket aluminium ones, motor was Turnigy, pinion gear was generic one I got.


Not sure how you worked out that any of those was the fault of any car manufacturer.


Oh, I destroyed a body, damn SpecR's
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Old 01-20-2014, 11:07 PM   #2426
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Obviously you didn't read my post before deciding to 'quote' it or English is a second language to you.


All the parts listed, none are factory parts, transponder is MyLaps, wheel nuts were aftermarket aluminium ones, motor was Turnigy, pinion gear was generic one I got.


Not sure how you worked out that any of those was the fault of any car manufacturer.


Oh, I destroyed a body, damn SpecR's
I think i was 3rd in the B main Spec-R the R stands for ROCKS MAN.
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:31 AM   #2427
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I think i was 3rd in the B main Spec-R the R stands for ROCKS MAN.
I think that MRJ was somewhere around there as well, so all 4 SpecR's finished the meeting in one piece, no DNF's due to any factory parts, all qualified for the finals.

Yep they are definitely a piece of shite (if you're driving a more expensive brand), they are no better or worse than any other brand out there, just don't cost as much to purchase or repair.


If brand means more than bucks, then you'll never be happy here, if a brand name means FA to you & you're more interested in value for money, then the SpecR's are a good option.
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:04 PM   #2428
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Yeah I was running around 5th I think. But had to call it a day when I mentally hit the wall at around 6pm. I had been up and running since early am and had already been working before the meet. Damn this work thing getting in the way of my hobby. I will be better rested next Friday for the regular meet. Will be giving it a thorough thrashing then.
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Old 01-21-2014, 03:29 PM   #2429
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With running these Touring cars (and not sure if it's just this one, or most all TC's), do you *always* have to take off the top deck just to change a pinion? or, is it safe to cut a notch just above the pinion to get to the set screw?
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Old 01-21-2014, 03:40 PM   #2430
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With running these Touring cars (and not sure if it's just this one, or most all TC's), do you *always* have to take off the top deck just to change a pinion? or, is it safe to cut a notch just above the pinion to get to the set screw?
I used a Dremel and a small sanding drum to make a notch so I can easily remove pinions. When using a large pinion, I find it easier to loosen the pinion first and then remove the motor to slide the pinion off the shaft. Reverse the order to re-install.
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