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Old 01-17-2014, 05:42 AM   #2401
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Originally Posted by viktozzz View Post
depends on motor...

i help built my friend S1 with a 13.5T. using 48dp spur and pinion. 80t spur and 25t pinion, and is quite a blast to drive in the parking lots. he don't even have the chance to full throttle it. note that ESC is set to blinky mode.

u can play ard from there. my own 17.5T setup is using 72T spur, 33T pinion, same 48 pitch.

reason for me to use 48pitch is because of the rougher outdoor track ,and past experience had me changing spurs and pinion more often than i can spend time to run the car.
mrjudd77 and viktozzz thanks for answering. I think I'm going to start with the standard 84 spur and a 25 t pinion. I'm a beginner, so top speed isn't important, first I have to learn to drive between the lines

Can I take a 48dp 25t pinion gear for the original spur ? Does this fit ?

Thanks again.
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Old 01-18-2014, 04:02 AM   #2402
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mrjudd77 and viktozzz thanks for answering. I think I'm going to start with the standard 84 spur and a 25 t pinion. I'm a beginner, so top speed isn't important, first I have to learn to drive between the lines

Can I take a 48dp 25t pinion gear for the original spur ? Does this fit ?

Thanks again.

Yup. 48dp pinion would fit stock spur
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:26 AM   #2403
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Quick question while Im at work ...... What size are the R1 shocks? 10mm or 11mm ???

Want to do some internal valve playing and was curious.

Appreciate the help.

Last edited by Robbob; 01-18-2014 at 08:16 AM.
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:23 PM   #2404
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Well I sold mine after 2 race weekends. Car is crap. Went back to my trusty TA04. Faster more durable car. Good luck running this car to the rest of you guys.
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:28 PM   #2405
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Well I sold mine after 2 race weekends. Car is crap. Went back to my trusty TA04. Faster more durable car. Good luck running this car to the rest of you guys.
Have you considered learning to set up a modern touring car and/or learning to drive?
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:54 PM   #2406
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Well I sold mine after 2 race weekends. Car is crap. Went back to my trusty TA04. Faster more durable car. Good luck running this car to the rest of you guys.
Which car did you have? What didn't you like about it?

I have an S1 and other than the ball cups I've found it to be quite durable. It cost me 6 to replace them.

I've chucked a gear diff in the front and added some roll bars and the car is as fast as any of the top cars. It just needs a better driver!

I'm quite tempted to upgrade to the Pro Spec but I'd be doing so just for the bling factor. I don't think it'd actually improve my lap times.
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Old 01-19-2014, 03:19 PM   #2407
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Well I sold mine after 2 race weekends. Car is crap. Went back to my trusty TA04. Faster more durable car. Good luck running this car to the rest of you guys.
Are you sure you posted on the right part of the forum? SpecR are awesome, durable and quite good value. Good luck running your TA04 and the price tag that goes along with it.

Finally got to run mine on Saturday just past. Car is fast. New car managed to take almost 2 sec off of my fastest lap times. Now just need to sort out a new body and get the gearing right and I should be running closer to the top of the field.

On a side note I did forget to add a second spacer to my rear wheels and managed to rub through the lower suspension mounts during my second race. Spacers have now been added and the problem has been solved. Might have to find some wheels with a better offset as the contacts that I am using do rub in a few places when new, both front and rear. Anyone have suggestions for better offset wheels in foam?
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Old 01-19-2014, 03:29 PM   #2408
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Have you considered learning to set up a modern touring car and/or learning to drive?
LOL man if you only knew. I can very well setup a modern touring car. The Spec R is to fragile. WAY to fragile in the front.

No reason front steering blocks and c-hubs bust all the time. It is well documented in this thread.

I like the TA04 and the balance of the car. I ran quicker laps with the spec r, but my medium time belongs to the Tamiya.

You get what you pay for.
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Old 01-19-2014, 03:31 PM   #2409
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Originally Posted by mrjudd77 View Post
Are you sure you posted on the right part of the forum? SpecR are awesome, durable and quite good value. Good luck running your TA04 and the price tag that goes along with it.

Finally got to run mine on Saturday just past. Car is fast. New car managed to take almost 2 sec off of my fastest lap times. Now just need to sort out a new body and get the gearing right and I should be running closer to the top of the field.

On a side note I did forget to add a second spacer to my rear wheels and managed to rub through the lower suspension mounts during my second race. Spacers have now been added and the problem has been solved. Might have to find some wheels with a better offset as the contacts that I am using do rub in a few places when new, both front and rear. Anyone have suggestions for better offset wheels in foam?

There is not a high price of running the TA04. I have ran the car for years without issues.

EDIT: I not knocking the car as far as not trying it. I was displeased with the durability, and setup feel. I never could really get it to really transition left to right fast enough for me. Tried numerous setups and it will not hold a setup through out a race night. If you race this car, then you will know what that means. It's a cheap alternative. For that it is a good car.
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Old 01-19-2014, 04:11 PM   #2410
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Well I sold mine after 2 race weekends. Car is crap. Went back to my trusty TA04. Faster more durable car. Good luck running this car to the rest of you guys.
Defiantly an end user error here.

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The Spec R is to fragile. WAY to fragile in the front.
Me thinks you should learn not to hit anything. I have 2 spec-r's that i race in mod and 10.5 stock and I have pretty much broken nothing in 12 months of racing the cars. Sure things wear out, belts, diffs etc, but nothing seems to break. 1 C hub , 2 front hinge pins, and a couple of cvd's thats it.
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Old 01-19-2014, 04:43 PM   #2411
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Defiantly an end user error here.



Me thinks you should learn not to hit anything. I have 2 spec-r's that i race in mod and 10.5 stock and I have pretty much broken nothing in 12 months of racing the cars. Sure things wear out, belts, diffs etc, but nothing seems to break. 1 C hub , 2 front hinge pins, and a couple of cvd's thats it.
I think I gave a honest opinion about a cheap car. That it is cheap.

Funny thing is, all that stuff you listed shouldn't have broke since you don't hit anything. amiright?

It's a beginner car, that is about it. I simply won't be spending my hard earned money on something so fragile.

The other is not end user error. It's a cheap car with cheap plastics. Sure you can upgrade it with Xray parts, but that defeats the purpose.

The TA04 is one of the most well balanced cars EVER made. It is a joy to drive, you should try one.

Now since we got that out of the way, go break you another CVD. Thanks.
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Old 01-19-2014, 05:32 PM   #2412
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Originally Posted by Metalsoft View Post
The TA04 is one of the most well balanced cars EVER made. It is a joy to drive, you should try one.
Slow cars usually are easy and a joy to drive. Judging by your sig you are a tamiya fan, why didn't you just get at 417 or 418? Those are proven platforms that are most likely stronger than the spec r.
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:10 PM   #2413
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Slow cars usually are easy and a joy to drive. Judging by your sig you are a tamiya fan, why didn't you just get at 417 or 418? Those are proven platforms that are most likely stronger than the spec r.

Whatever dude.
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:23 AM   #2414
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I'm running 2 cars, a new Pro Spec myself & a R1 for 'guest' drivers, grand total of damage running both cars on Saturday during a race meeting.

1 lost wheel nut
1 burnt out 10.5t motor
1 lost pinion gear
1 broken transponder mount (embarrassing moment, run head on into a 2 inch thick wooden barrier that hadn't been removed from the track cut out, I just turned in without even looking. lol).


That's it.

One car ran 5th & 6th in the B main, the other 2nd & 3rd in the C main.


Yep, they are obviously easily broken.

Last edited by OldfartWal; 01-20-2014 at 12:24 AM. Reason: spelling error
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:03 AM   #2415
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Car did great. Was impressed. Leading the a-main I tagged the wall slightly and broke the bottom screw hole on the steering block. Will the xray T3 hard steering blocks work? these actually....http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2652

They look the same but seem stronger.
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That's where my break too. I haven't considered an Xray replacement, I'd be curious as well to know if they work.
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Broke two steering blocks this weenend so far... not happy. Third round car was looking great but grazing the clicktrack was enough to shatter the hub.

Got an xray on now to finish the weekend.
Fourth round tomorrow morning and hope I can salvage a terrible qualifying day.
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Im sure it was cracked from a crash before at some point and that glancing blow was just the death blow that finished it off.

Like I said before that Xray hard bumper will help stop 95% of these issues....but hey what do I know.
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Yeah Kevin what would you know newbie. LOL
I solved this problem with the lower screw coming out of the steering block by glueing the screw in. It was a temporary fix.
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First one I deserved to break. Full throttle into chicane lol. Second one though I literally drove against a parallel peice of track and brushed it lol.

Not too bad though. Was in the top ten before breaking it. This morning I have one more try to secure an amain berth. Lots of money in the amain lol
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#3 from what I understand the current arms and hubs have carbon in them, they feel almost as stiff as my BD7 arms.

I think the problem with the caster blocks is they are not thick enough(too thin) and too stiff, similar to the outer hinge pins failures from impact.
One of our racers is a metallurgist and looked at the fractures of the outer hinge pins and his conclusion was they are too thin and too hard.

My 9 month R1 pro is a now VTA and I have no part breakage. Before the only breakage I had was 2 outer front hinge pins.
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Originally Posted by daveaustin5 View Post
I've ran mine twice now and I like it.

The ball cups are pretty much useless though! After one heavier collision I had the turnbuckle completely pull out of the ball cup. I've got some Tamiya ones on the way so hopefully that will solve it.

I also managed to break part of the steering assembly but that was probably my fault for not running a servo saver.

We race rubber on a tight indoor track and I'm not feeling the spool. I've decided to stick a gear diff in the front which should be interesting.
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Originally Posted by mrjudd77 View Post
Vicktozz, I had the same problem with the turnbuckles, and one of the oil caps being broken. Didn't get pics of the bits so they could be replaced. Tried RCMart (they wanted pics) might try SpecR directly.
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Originally Posted by OldfartWal View Post
I'm running 2 cars, a new Pro Spec myself & a R1 for 'guest' drivers, grand total of damage running both cars on Saturday during a race meeting.

1 lost wheel nut
1 burnt out 10.5t motor
1 lost pinion gear
1 broken transponder mount (embarrassing moment, run head on into a 2 inch thick wooden barrier that hadn't been removed from the track cut out, I just turned in without even looking. lol).


That's it.

One car ran 5th & 6th in the B main, the other 2nd & 3rd in the C main.


Yep, they are obviously easily broken.
Just in the last two pages. Not trying to be a ass here, but I stated the problems I had with the car and that in my eyes it was crap. Then I get hit up for my driving ability.

Just the last two pages....
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