mrjudd77

Yeah Kevin what would you know newbie. LOL
I solved this problem with the lower screw coming out of the steering block by glueing the screw in. It was a temporary fix.

valk

iTrader: (13)

First one I deserved to break. Full throttle into chicane lol. Second one though I literally drove against a parallel peice of track and brushed it lol.

Not too bad though. Was in the top ten before breaking it. This morning I have one more try to secure an amain berth. Lots of money in the amain lol

Jorge T

iTrader: (14)

#3 from what I understand the current arms and hubs have carbon in them, they feel almost as stiff as my BD7 arms.

I think the problem with the caster blocks is they are not thick enough(too thin) and too stiff, similar to the outer hinge pins failures from impact.
One of our racers is a metallurgist and looked at the fractures of the outer hinge pins and his conclusion was they are too thin and too hard.

My 9 month R1 pro is a now VTA and I have no part breakage. Before the only breakage I had was 2 outer front hinge pins.

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

here is a picture from facebook.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater

There is more carbon in these parts than any part I have ever seen from Spec-R....its more like Tamiya or Yokomo graphite parts now.

viktozzz

iTrader: (7)

thanks. took me a while to get it up, due to some hiccups. and oso the fact that i do not know the brand, however, having built up a total of around 7 S1 & 2 R1 for my friends, i am quite impressed with it. thus, had a S1 for myself, with some so-called upgrades which i deemed as necessary for a smoother ride.

currently, car is hooked to a 17.5T and HW Xtreme stock ESC. system is set to blinky mode with a 4.0 FDR. wld be most prob racing with it, but i nd to get some track time with it first.

valk

iTrader: (13)

S1 didnt do too bad. think i finished 3/4th in the B main. I got messed up a little bit and had to come back from the very back but the car handled pretty well. I did break both my spare steering blocks though. in the sam eplace. where the screw goes in on the bottom, thus losing the bushings lol. i guess when one breaks you should just change both lol.

I put a T2 steering block in and couldnt really tell if there was a difference in the alignment of things. i did put a shim on the bottom side of the block to take some of the slop out as there was a good half mil difference there but was able to finish the weekend np.

Spec R seems stout enough for our outdoor track of flexible wood and thin plastic walls but clicktrack is just too rough for it ha.
one i kinda deserved to break though. there was a snake head leading into a chicane that i would accellerate through and just clipped the inside of the chicane. im sure most cars would blow up from that.

I think i would have done better if i had had more time to spend on setup. trying to get my 12th scales to work took up all my time and my mod serpent. so i guess the middle B finish is pretty good considering i didnt really tough the specr all weekend from the base setup i went in with, and fixing what i broke.

OldfartWal

iTrader: (2)

I was hoping to 'debut' the new ProSpec this weekend, but due to a lack of diligence, someone thought they ordered a motor & speedie for it mid December, checked my account statement today to discover that I had neglected to pay, made a hurried order from an Aussie dealer, but not sure if the parts will arrive before the weekend. So I'll be running the R1 (unless all the other parts arrive in time), 3rd meeting back, hopefully they'll have a 'C' Main & I qualify for that or the field is down on numbers & I make the 'B' main.

The focus is still on having fun, once the Pro Spec is up & running, the R1 becomes the 'guest' car, a few nitro TC mates & MRJ (if he wants a run in an R1) will be given the driving duties, keeping the 2 cars totally independent with separate radio's for each, my new 12th scale & the Pro Spec will be on the MT4 & the R1 will be on the 3PL, meaning both SpecR's can compete in the same heat/final.

Jorge T

iTrader: (14)

Looks like new material for hubs.

They already advertise "graphite suspension parts" in the kit features.

here is a picture of mine.

daveaustin5

iTrader: (1)

I've ran mine twice now and I like it.

The ball cups are pretty much useless though! After one heavier collision I had the turnbuckle completely pull out of the ball cup. I've got some Tamiya ones on the way so hopefully that will solve it.

I also managed to break part of the steering assembly but that was probably my fault for not running a servo saver.

We race rubber on a tight indoor track and I'm not feeling the spool. I've decided to stick a gear diff in the front which should be interesting.

Jorge T

iTrader: (14)

I replaced the ball cups with Tamiya. I did not like the spool until I installed double joint cardans. Makes a big difference.

nrtv20

iTrader: (9)

Is the point of the Tamiya ball cups to eliminate slop or help with rod threading? I want to help tighten up the links on my car.

Jorge T

iTrader: (14)

Pretty much both. I also changed the rear outer ball studs with Tamiya steel ones after I noticed that both rear aluminum ball studs were bent.

nrtv20

iTrader: (9)

Thanks, I didn't know if it helped fit the ball ends better; Spec-R's are a little loose.

Metalsoft

iTrader: (76)

First thing I did with mine as we also run a tight tech track. Never understood the spool. Alot of guys I race with use one, and they ask me how I am turning faster laps, and i say it's that damn contraption you have in the front. Your front wheels are fighting each other.

mrjudd77

I will definitely be there this Friday Wal, unless my partner decides that Friday is the day to have the baby. Looking forward to getting the new car on track and having a go with the R1. 3 days to go, YAY!