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Old 12-27-2013, 03:04 PM   #2251
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I forgot about the hexes i got those too. But buying all he stuff on that list makes and r1 pretty appealing no? $150 was he max i was willing to sink into an s1 even when i got it for $89. Spares were part of that $150.
More than that, might as well buy an r1.
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Old 12-27-2013, 03:04 PM   #2252
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I forgot about the hexes i got those too. But buying all he stuff on that list makes and r1 pretty appealing no? $150 was he max i was willing to sink into an s1 even when i got it for $89. Spares were part of that $150.
More than that, might as well buy an r1.
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Old 12-27-2013, 03:08 PM   #2253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bappe View Post
must have items should be swaybars and better ballcups (tamiya for example)

good to have:
alu hexes
servo mount

i would get these items first and upgrade later, if you crash alot it will become clear quite quickly what youll need
alu hexes, which width would you recommend?
5, 6 or 7mm?
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Old 12-27-2013, 03:10 PM   #2254
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Honestly all you NEED is aluminum hexes. Swaybars help but not always used.
Tamiya ballcups nice to have and needed for steering. Not so much for camber links.
The steerig isnt too bad you just need to shim it and maybe use some orings. Before i got tamiya ballcups all i had to do was put orings on the balls to take up the slack in it all.
Tamiya is much better but i still have one or teo orings in there to keep the rack from flatig around at neutral.

$150 was my limit for the s1. That included all my spares and the upgrades. More than that and an r1 is a much better place to start. I like my s1 but id use it for parts of an r1 if i was buying all that stuff.
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Old 12-27-2013, 03:10 PM   #2255
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Honestly all you NEED is aluminum hexes. Swaybars help but not always used.
Tamiya ballcups nice to have and needed for steering. Not so much for camber links.
The steerig isnt too bad you just need to shim it and maybe use some orings. Before i got tamiya ballcups all i had to do was put orings on the balls to take up the slack in it all.
Tamiya is much better but i still have one or teo orings in there to keep the rack from flatig around at neutral.

$150 was my limit for the s1. That included all my spares and the upgrades. More than that and an r1 is a much better place to start. I like my s1 but id use it for parts of an r1 if i was buying all that stuff.
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Old 12-27-2013, 03:15 PM   #2256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Italboy View Post
What's the part number of the Tamiya ball cups for the S1?

So the following items for the S1 are musts:
- alu steering
- alu floating servo mount
- alu hexes
- sway bars
And front drive shafts
Right?
This is the exact list of upgrades I put on my S1.
the driveshafts I used were 3Racing from Rcmart
rcmart.com/3racing-t301-driveshaft-p-36126.html?cPath=595_1077_442
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Old 12-27-2013, 03:55 PM   #2257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Italboy View Post
What's the part number of the Tamiya ball cups for the S1?

So the following items for the S1 are musts:
- alu steering
- alu floating servo mount
- alu hexes
- sway bars
And front drive shafts
Right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bappe View Post
must have items should be swaybars and better ballcups (tamiya for example)

good to have:
alu hexes
servo mount

i would get these items first and upgrade later, if you crash alot it will become clear quite quickly what youll need
I like how this was phrased... 'Good to have'

None are 'must haves'
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Old 12-27-2013, 03:58 PM   #2258
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Holy crap. Sorry about that lol. Iphone fail.
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Old 12-27-2013, 06:55 PM   #2259
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The DJC's are only needed if you run a spool. Chatter is a non issue with a gear diff in the front.
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Old 12-27-2013, 07:11 PM   #2260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Italboy View Post
alu hexes, which width would you recommend?
5, 6 or 7mm?
Stock hexes are 4mm. If you race VTA I've heard you need to run the 6mm hexes on the front to clear the linkages.
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Old 12-27-2013, 10:22 PM   #2261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lawton70 View Post
Stock hexes are 4mm. If you race VTA I've heard you need to run the 6mm hexes on the front to clear the linkages.
Yeah, 6mm are still VERY close to where the links attach, I think 4mm would rub for sure.
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Old 12-27-2013, 11:52 PM   #2262
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Last question from my side.
Shall I rather take the S1 than the XI Sport?
Parts availability is no problem for both cars.
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Old 12-28-2013, 12:12 AM   #2263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Italboy View Post
Last question from my side.
Shall I rather take the S1 than the XI Sport?
Parts availability is no problem for both cars.
S1!
I run a 6mm hex with a 1mm spacer to clear the Contact foam tyres that I run here. They rub on the lower control arms. I also run 6+1mm on the rear to keep the track width level
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Old 12-28-2013, 12:21 AM   #2264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjudd77 View Post
S1!
I run a 6mm hex with a 1mm spacer to clear the Contact foam tyres that I run here. They rub on the lower control arms. I also run 6+1mm on the rear to keep the track width level
Funny, I run the same tyres on my R1, no spacers in the front hubs, if I run the rear shocks on the outside most mount, then I need 2 spacers on each side, none if I run the shocks upright on the inner mount location, but I've left the spacers in as it gives me a rear track that's right on the limit.

The must be a slight difference between the R1 & S1 in the front end.



@Italboy, just buy the R1, if you want to run with the more expensive cars then you should be able for a fraction of the cost, (sorry S1 drivers), the R1 is near enough a exact identical car to the X-Ray.
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Old 12-28-2013, 01:33 AM   #2265
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Some good info here. I have one more question. I'm going to upgrade to R1 alu suspension mounts but have noticed that the part number for the pivot balls to mount the pivot pin into the lower arm is different for the R1 and S1 is different but they look the same on the manual. Does anyone know if the there is a difference ?
Thanks
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