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Old 12-08-2013, 12:27 PM   #2146
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
Heh. Swaybar quality seems meh. I built the car with perfect freeness in the arms and the rollbar sits flat on table and moves freely in its keeper. Though, lifting left side lifts right but right wont lift left. Not sure whyas everything moves freely as it should and links same length.

Wire swaybars are always fiddly lol
I've had this issue, make sure the sway bar is centered perfectly in the holder clamps.
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Old 12-08-2013, 01:34 PM   #2147
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Hmmm how different are the prospec cf bits..? Thats kinda tempting.

That might be it. I had ro modify the keeper as i couldnt get spec r retainers so used top ones instead.
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Old 12-08-2013, 05:05 PM   #2148
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None of the instructions mention droop which is a shame. I've run my S1 and R1 with droop settings of 6 in front and 4 in the rear.
Question for you SteveM, what was the effect of the droop screw setting on the car? More initial steering?
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Old 12-08-2013, 05:18 PM   #2149
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droop settings have to do with overall downtravel of the suspension. typically more will give you more traction but allows more chassis movement. in high traction you will typically want less, bigg droop number.

a good starting point for most touring cars is 5f3r. I generally start 5/5 and usually end up somewhere in the 5/4 or 6/4 range. this can also be measured by over ride height, where you lift the car at one end and see how many mm over ride height it takes to spin the wheels freely. or lift visibly off the ground. this requires the tweak at the other end of the car to be correct so i generally set my droop on a Downstop gauge first.
this will ensure your downtravel is even left to right, whatever the number is isnt important.
do this with the shocks on. shocks off downstop setting is meaningless as there is always some preload on the suspension to get your desired ride height obviously.

after that, i do my lift tests f/r to make sure my preloads are even in all corners. some people use scales to do this. that takes a lot of space and expensive i cant be bothered with. sheet of glass, new tires or setup tires and lift test is very accurate. basically both tires should lift at the same time.

THEN, i can check over ride height droop. which is somewhere in the 2-3mm front and 3-4 mm rear.
then as a final added measure ill take the wheels off and check the setting once again on a downstop gauge to make sure they are equal left/right.

you do have to do the due diligence on this car as the quality of the springs seems lacking. both my stock whites and reds are different lengths of each other lol. going to a higher quality spring like ride, xray, yokomo ect will help minimize some of this initial prep.

BUT if you race at the same track often, you shouldnt need to mess with the downstop too terribly much. check it every race week maybe just make sure the grub screws havent worn the chassis plate and changed your droop.
also in case of a bad crash that might have tweaked things.

so long convoluted msg but hope it helps.
5/3 are pretty typical measurements but they will vary from rollcenter changes and tire diameters.
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Old 12-08-2013, 05:31 PM   #2150
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Originally Posted by lawton70 View Post
Question for you SteveM, what was the effect of the droop screw setting on the car? More initial steering?
Valk has you covered in his well done response above.
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Old 12-08-2013, 05:31 PM   #2151
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Just remember, the point of droop is to set the front to rear, rear to front weight transfer balance. This is the main setting you will play with when setting your car up for any track. A lot of how you set up the droop has to do with how bumpy the track is and how much grip you have.

As an example, and in comparison to Valk, I run typically 1 to 2mm front droop and 5+ mm rear droop on my home track, low grip, high speed corners and very bumpy. So more weight on the front wheels to help eliminate under steer, and a lot of down travel on the rear to keep the rear wheels on the track through the bumps.

But like i said, droop is all about how the car transfers weight, and a lot has to do with the track grip, its bumpiness and how you like to drive the car. Everyone is different in this regard. If you do not understand the effect of droop on the car, set it up as box default, run 5 laps, come in and add +2mm front droop, run 5 laps, then come in and run -2mm off box setting and run 5 laps. Do the same on the rear and you will understand enough about droop to know the numbers are kind of meaningless, but the effect on the car is totally profound, to the point where this will be your main tuning option throughout the day.
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:19 PM   #2152
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this is true. most of the other settings you will likely leave alone. i usually just adjust toe/camber and droop for the most part. almost never mess with rollcenter, wheel base, track or any of the shock positions. you will kind of develope your own baseline setup where you are comfortable with how the car reacts to your driving style.
this is the important part though. cause you will have a much harder time adjusting to someone elses driving style and setup ect.

this is a great sport for diversity though. I slow right down and let the car autorotate through the corners where others will power in with a wide line.
even my stock car is setup to overrotate quite a lot and you have to catch it with the power lol.
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Old 12-09-2013, 09:36 PM   #2153
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I just keep an eye on the loose nut behind the wheel
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Old 12-11-2013, 11:33 PM   #2154
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Was looking forward to the last weekend of racing for the year, Just pulled my diff apart as it was making noise and have found that the gears are cactus. Are there replacement metal gears available or are we stuck with the plastic ones?
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:03 AM   #2155
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Was looking forward to the last weekend of racing for the year, Just pulled my diff apart as it was making noise and have found that the gears are cactus. Are there replacement metal gears available or are we stuck with the plastic ones?
There are carbon reinforced ones. I think i have one set spare if you need them, as i am not racing TC this weekend, only 12th scale.
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Old 12-12-2013, 03:50 AM   #2156
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There are carbon reinforced ones. I think i have one set spare if you need them, as i am not racing TC this weekend, only 12th scale.
Might have to take you up on that. I am ordering a couple of sets so I can replace it for you when they arrive. Mind if I come pick it up tomorrow. Can I use that battery that I used last time as well?

How late are we expecting to be this weekend? Kelly would like to know
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Old 12-12-2013, 05:56 AM   #2157
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Just ordered a fresh new S1 to go under the tree for xmas. Hope it gets here paid the extra for express shipping from RC Mart.
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Old 12-12-2013, 08:55 AM   #2158
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Racing update,
Raced the S1 for the 2nd time in a 17.5 blinky club race.
The first time I used the car it had a controllable push where there was no way to get the rear to break loose.
My only change I made was to keep the #1.4 swaybar in the front and replace the #1.2 swaybar in the rear for a #1.3. The rest of the car is the setup from the S1 manual.
The handling now is the rear will come slightly loose both on and off power.
The net result of the change was a 3 lap increase during qualifying and a tq and 1st in the final. 8 cars in the class.
My next planned change is to take some of the droop from the front to get more high speed steering. I noticed on the high speed corners there was a push going into them and the rear is planted at this point.

also, my 12 year old son raced his S1 for the first time at the same club race in the 17.5 blinky class. The car follows the S1 manual exactly and has the r1 swaybars installed. 1.4 front, 1.2 rear. 1st qualifier he broke a c-block and steering block, 2nd qualifier he broke off both front body mounts. 3rd qualifier was clean. Finished 3rd in the A-main. This is a car he had never run before in a race and beat out several xrays with more experienced drivers. The S1 is a very easy car to drive with the S1 manual setup.

Last edited by lawton70; 12-12-2013 at 09:00 AM. Reason: more info.
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:45 AM   #2159
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Congrats! My 12 yo son keeps breaking suspension parts also.
I am thinking about selling his R1.
He needs an invincible-mobile.
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Old 12-12-2013, 02:29 PM   #2160
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I had in interesting incident with my newly acquired (used) second R1 yesterday. I got hit, not too hard at all, from the side, and that sheered off both front body mounts basically in the same spot. About mid-way between the bumper and the top of the mounts, like someone ran a laser across them. My other R1 has been hit MANY times and much harder, never an issue. So, I'm not sure if Spec-R has different batches of plastic or if I just had the prefect hit, but I found that very weird.

Of course now I have to find a TC setup for this second R1. It's a whole different ball game from VTA.
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