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Old 12-01-2013, 10:05 PM   #2116
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Iíve had a problem with the tops of my S1 shocks loosening off. First time I caught it in time, but yesterday it ended a heat for me. Iím happy to upgrade to the metal shock bodies. Are they a direct swap with the plastic S1 bodies?
Yes they are and they are also one of the few things you should upgrade on the S1 as they do pop off at times.
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Old 12-01-2013, 10:15 PM   #2117
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Yes they are and they are also one of the few things you should upgrade on the S1 as they do pop off at times.
Cheers. Will get some alloy clamp wheel hexes at the same time, as I've found that with the plastic kit hexes it binds the axle up if you over tighten the wheel nut.
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Old 12-02-2013, 04:29 AM   #2118
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My S1 kit has arrived and I'm hoping to start building it tonight. I feel like a kid at Christmas! It's been 15 years since I last built a kit.

Any tips?

I've read this which looks like a good starting point. Anything else I need to take particular care of?
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:03 AM   #2119
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Originally Posted by daveaustin5 View Post
My S1 kit has arrived and I'm hoping to start building it tonight. I feel like a kid at Christmas! It's been 15 years since I last built a kit.

Any tips?

I've read this which looks like a good starting point. Anything else I need to take particular care of?
Should be pretty easy. The S1 has pretty hard plastic so go slow and don't force any screws. You'll most likely want to get a few upgrades, such as aluminum shocks, sway bars, floating servo holder, etc. But first run it as is to get a feel for it, and good luck
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:20 AM   #2120
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with the S1 I pre-threaded all screw holes before I put the selected piece on. I used one of the M3 countersunk screws for threading. For some reason they worked better than the cap head screws.
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:20 AM   #2121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveaustin5 View Post
My S1 kit has arrived and I'm hoping to start building it tonight. I feel like a kid at Christmas! It's been 15 years since I last built a kit.

Any tips?

I've read this which looks like a good starting point. Anything else I need to take particular care of?
The instructions in the link you included are good for starters. They mention shimming parts as needed but they don't include shims in the kit and you'll need to buy a package. 3Racing sell a nice set.

Make sure the suspension arms do not bind. They should move completely free and not have any binding anywhere. Also pay careful attention to the shock mounting locations that are identified with letters. Make sure to use the same mounting hole left to right.

None of the instructions mention droop which is a shame. I've run my S1 and R1 with droop settings of 6 in front and 4 in the rear. I use an aluminum droop gauge similar to the Yeah Racing version, but Associated also sell a nice composite version for cheap.

I lube the CVD joints with Super Lube synthetic multi-purpose grease rather than the Tamiya Anti Wear grease or black grease that comes with some kits. The Super Lube is clear and is less messy and doesn't seem to attract dirt or carpet fuzz as much. Makes maintenance easier when there is less mess.

I found that the Spec-R plastic has a bit more moulding flash than other kits and you will need to carefully remove it. I use medium or fine hones, but a fine nail file might also work.
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:17 AM   #2122
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Thanks guys
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:30 AM   #2123
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Ill also note the shims included in te kit make things like wheelbase too tight. I got the 3 racing 0.5-2mm shim set and a few tamiya 53585 0.1-0.3mm shim sets. Its anal but you want to shim the arms as close to zero play you can without bind. Ive found the plastic suspension carriers to be a little lopsided though. One of my rear pins has 0.2 more shimming than the other lol. Sometime soon ill get alum mounts as i have in the front.
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Old 12-02-2013, 02:44 PM   #2124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveaustin5 View Post
My S1 kit has arrived and I'm hoping to start building it tonight. I feel like a kid at Christmas! It's been 15 years since I last built a kit.

Any tips?

I've read this which looks like a good starting point. Anything else I need to take particular care of?
Hi - there's plenty of advice on this thread. Firstly I'd bin the plastic kit shims and put metal ones in. You'll need to buy a lot of shims but they'll come in handy. The steering will need shimming and I've written a bit about this on my blog. With regular running, the car loosens up quite a bit so items such as steering will need re-shimming.

Good luck with the car, I'm sure you'll enjoy it, especially when you compare how little you paid for it against the high end ones.
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Old 12-03-2013, 10:35 PM   #2125
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Quick question guys and girls. What does everyone use to clean their chassis?
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Old 12-03-2013, 10:41 PM   #2126
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I use wd40....for my chassis's
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:48 AM   #2127
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Thanks. Just wanted to make sure that I wasn't doing any damage to the chassis or other components.
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Old 12-04-2013, 09:09 AM   #2128
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I use Isopropyl Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol) to clean parts in general. There are 2 kinds of alcohol termed 'Rubbing Alcohol'. Isopropyl and Ethyl. I find Isopropyl easier on plastics and rubber. I use it to clean old rubber off the lexan bodies and it works perfect. If I clean tires I use the Ethyl as I found it works as a mild traction compound better than Isopropyl.
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Old 12-04-2013, 09:16 AM   #2129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poeee View Post
Cheers. Will get some alloy clamp wheel hexes at the same time, as I've found that with the plastic kit hexes it binds the axle up if you over tighten the wheel nut.
I have had the same problem with the aluminum hexes if you over tighten the wheel nuts. This is not just a problem with the plastic hexes. FYI
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Old 12-04-2013, 09:25 AM   #2130
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Last week I used a 4600 mah 70c shorty pack in my Spec R on a carpet track. It felt real quick and nimble compared to the stick pack I was using but I had to add about 7 grams of wgt to the rear. Is anyone else using a shorty lipo? Do you feel a difference? What set-up changes did you have to make?
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