Spec-R R1
11-26-2013, 03:49 AM
#2086
I just bought a spec-r S1 and thought I would share my experience too.
My goal was to put together the best low cost racing package I could while being able to challenge the higher end xray's and tamiya's.
I am an experienced racer in other scales of indoor and outdoor racing, but this is my first venture into 1/10 TC.
I ran a S1 with the setup right from the manual.
I was very picky putting it together to make sure all pieces were put together properly.
I added the following upgrades:
- Aluminum center servo holder
- aluminum steering rack
- sway bar kit from the R1 using the 1.4 front, 1.2 rear (as per the R1 manual)
- 3Racing ssk (double cvd) drives for the front.
- Geared 64 pitch - kimborough 96 tooth spur, 43 tooth pinion for a FDR of 4.24
Others:
- Sweep spec Green rubber tires
- Mazda 6 'protoform' style body from rcMart
- Turnigy nano-tec 6.6mah lipo
- turnigy 17.5 brushless
- hobbyking 120A brushless ESC (hobbywing clone)
- bluebird servo from hobbyking
- orange RX spektrum dsm2
(lots of spare parts like arms and c-blocks from tqrcracing.com as well)
Complete cost under $450
Race Review:
I raced it for the first time in a club 17.5 blinky race.
I had only run the car enough before this race night to make sure the steering trim was straight and then 5 minutes of running.
Having never raced this car before, I put full compound(niftec) rear and the inside 1/2 compound front.
The car is very neutral, so with a 1/2 compound front it had a managable on power push. Enough push that it was noticed by some other racers watching.
Throughout my heat races I added more and more compound on the front until I was running full compound front and rear. The car still has a very mild on power push(understeer) but is very drivable. The rear of the car never once felt loose or tried to come around the whole race night.
I had a collision with another car on the straight, where the other car had come to a dead stop after hitting the boards. I ran into the car at about 25-30mph. Nothing broke on my car BUT I think the ball cup moved down the tie rod. It now has a few degrees of toe out which seems to give the car a bit more steering so I left this new found 'adjustment'.
Results:
TQ and 1st in my 'spec stock' 17.5 class.
Looking at the board the lap count would have been good enough for 2nd place in the next level 'pro-stock' 17.5 class. It would not have been fast enough to challenge the winner of that class as it was a couple laps off the pace.
Conclusion:
For me this car worked perfectly its first race. The setup from the manual is very drivable and will tend to understeer which is easy to drive for beginners to 1/10 touring car. The best part, the other racers could not believe an $85 dollar car on its first outing with a box stock setup could work so well. I'm very impressed with the drivability of this car.
My goal was to put together the best low cost racing package I could while being able to challenge the higher end xray's and tamiya's.
I am an experienced racer in other scales of indoor and outdoor racing, but this is my first venture into 1/10 TC.
I ran a S1 with the setup right from the manual.
I was very picky putting it together to make sure all pieces were put together properly.
I added the following upgrades:
- Aluminum center servo holder
- aluminum steering rack
- sway bar kit from the R1 using the 1.4 front, 1.2 rear (as per the R1 manual)
- 3Racing ssk (double cvd) drives for the front.
- Geared 64 pitch - kimborough 96 tooth spur, 43 tooth pinion for a FDR of 4.24
Others:
- Sweep spec Green rubber tires
- Mazda 6 'protoform' style body from rcMart
- Turnigy nano-tec 6.6mah lipo
- turnigy 17.5 brushless
- hobbyking 120A brushless ESC (hobbywing clone)
- bluebird servo from hobbyking
- orange RX spektrum dsm2
(lots of spare parts like arms and c-blocks from tqrcracing.com as well)
Complete cost under $450
Race Review:
I raced it for the first time in a club 17.5 blinky race.
I had only run the car enough before this race night to make sure the steering trim was straight and then 5 minutes of running.
Having never raced this car before, I put full compound(niftec) rear and the inside 1/2 compound front.
The car is very neutral, so with a 1/2 compound front it had a managable on power push. Enough push that it was noticed by some other racers watching.
Throughout my heat races I added more and more compound on the front until I was running full compound front and rear. The car still has a very mild on power push(understeer) but is very drivable. The rear of the car never once felt loose or tried to come around the whole race night.
I had a collision with another car on the straight, where the other car had come to a dead stop after hitting the boards. I ran into the car at about 25-30mph. Nothing broke on my car BUT I think the ball cup moved down the tie rod. It now has a few degrees of toe out which seems to give the car a bit more steering so I left this new found 'adjustment'.
Results:
TQ and 1st in my 'spec stock' 17.5 class.
Looking at the board the lap count would have been good enough for 2nd place in the next level 'pro-stock' 17.5 class. It would not have been fast enough to challenge the winner of that class as it was a couple laps off the pace.
Conclusion:
For me this car worked perfectly its first race. The setup from the manual is very drivable and will tend to understeer which is easy to drive for beginners to 1/10 touring car. The best part, the other racers could not believe an $85 dollar car on its first outing with a box stock setup could work so well. I'm very impressed with the drivability of this car.
I've ordered an S1 from HK and am looking forward to getting it setup. So far I've spent about £220 ($350) inc postage
Car kit: £75
Speed passion Reventon R & v3.0 13.5 motor: £65
Power HD DS1206TG servo: £20
Gens Ace 5000mah 40C: £28
2 x Blitz XFR bodies: £31
I'm just waiting for the postman to deliver it all so I can get stuck in!
Regardless of inflation, it's cheaper to start racing now than it was 15 years ago.
11-26-2013, 09:23 PM
#2088
WOW Pro Spec for the price of a standard R1. What is the cost of shipping to postcode 4500 in Australia?
11-26-2013, 10:10 PM
#2090
I think because the R1 is now out of stock, the R1 Pro is being priced at the same price as the old car. I do not think we will anything new or fantastic for another 8 months or more.
11-27-2013, 01:45 AM
#2091
I agree Roger, the Pro Spec is too new. Although a shiny new kit would be very nice maybe a 2014 pro spec or something
11-27-2013, 08:33 AM
#2092
Does anyone know all of the part numbers needed to add anti-roll bars to the S1?
11-27-2013, 09:12 AM
#2094
11-27-2013, 09:56 PM
#2096
the ballcups are 4.7mm and can be replced by the Tamiya ones I believe. Failing that I think you may need to replace the studs as well
11-28-2013, 07:10 AM
#2098
