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Old 11-10-2013, 10:01 PM   #2056
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Mornin Guys...

I purchased R1 about a year ago.. i think it was the second batch... and i have been using it for TITC as well as for my local race with 13,5 motor...

To be honest I was very happy with their design, etc...but the quality of the part is poor...

my question is....with the new R1 Pro Spec....is the quality of the part much more better or still the same as the R1?

Appreciate all the comment on my question...

Cheers
The Pro Spec is still just an R1, the only upgrades are the ones you see listed. The thinner chassis and top deck give it more flex, as does the floating servo mount. Otherwise the parts are exactly the same. What are you breaking?
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Old 11-11-2013, 11:29 AM   #2057
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Anyone know what the max width wheel hex that will fit the car? +6? +7?
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:53 PM   #2058
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Anyone know what the max width wheel hex that will fit the car? +6? +7?
I believe I'm running the +6 hexes without a problem. I can double-check for you when I get home tonight.
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:32 PM   #2059
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I am running a +6mm hex plus a 1.5mm spacer to run 26mm 0 offset VTA wheel on mine to keep it from rubbing on the steering arm. The nut is flush with axle. Using Qteq wheel nuts.
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:51 PM   #2060
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define poor parts quality? I found all the plastics on my S1 to go together as well as any xray or serpent i've owned. some of the parts like ballcups and servo horns weren't as good but cant win everything. Havent broke a single part on the car, just popped ballcups.

The aluminum parts i picked up as upgrades were quite nice. aluminum or graphite swaybar holder would be nice. and harder ballcups.. the screws were also kinda meh but thats easy to change out.

For $289 expectations need to be realistic. its not going to be a tamiya for that price ha.
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:51 PM   #2061
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Thanks for the help I appreciate it, I was looking at 24mm Ride USGT tires to see how wide I can make the car.
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Old 11-12-2013, 03:01 PM   #2062
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I also run a 6mm hex with a 1mm spacer to fit the foamies. This is so it clears the top turn buckle on the c-hub
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Old 11-17-2013, 12:07 AM   #2063
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Ran my car on a new track today. Thanks to the guys at Landsborough. The car ran well all day (found the culprit or the stripped steering hub, replaced the turnbuckle, fixed) I ran consistently all heats with 3rd,3rd,3rd,and a 4th. Finals 3rd. I think I need the djc's to remove chatter which is washing off speed. Will be more competitive this Friday night with less breakages and more experience. Also posted a best standard deviation of 0.7
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Old 11-17-2013, 01:17 AM   #2064
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Not sure what you have done to the S1 in your sig, but id say swaybars will give you a much more notable performance increase than DJC's.
you shouldn't really need enough full lock steering for the chatter to slow you down.

well two weeks passed working on my mazda, next week i can finally get to rc again after a long long downtime within my club. I ran my S1 a few weeks ago with modified trim and it would definitely need some adjustment from the stock setup lol. the car was glued to the track for 17.5 but mod was very difficult to manage. in fairness, the stock car had the advantage of new, heated tires, but still. a few laps usually brings them up to temp.
ill commit to running this car at WCICS in stock division and keep my serpent for mod, unless i get some cash to upgrade my S1 to an R1pro before then.
just dropped $1500 into the mazda though doing tranny work so rather doubt it. wanted to run 4 classes at that event but ill probably skip the 1/12 stock class.

Ill have to fill in my setup sheet but on the sweep tires this car was excellent on carpet and ashphalt. Only thing added to it was swaybars.

also should note just how easy it was to kill a rod end... mod pressed the turnbuckle right into the rod end destroying the threads. if i can swing it, ill try to update at least the steering rodend's to something a little beefier.
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Old 11-17-2013, 03:12 PM   #2065
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The car in my sig is my retired HPI Sprint 2 Flux with a full alloy upgrade, it looks great but is really heavy and slow. Still a great basher. The chatter I am getting is coming on from about half lock and I think the corner speed could also be improved by changing out the front spool for another gear diff. I have thought about doing the sway bar upgrade but I think that I will run it like this for a couple of months and then just get myself the pro kit.
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:15 PM   #2066
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The dcj's and sway bars make a HUGE improvement on the S1. The sway bars make the car feel sooo much more planted and are well worth the inexpensive cost.
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:34 PM   #2067
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The dcj's and sway bars make a HUGE improvement on the S1. The sway bars make the car feel sooo much more planted and are well worth the inexpensive cost.
Are you using dcj's in the front & rear ?
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:39 PM   #2068
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Are you using dcj's in the front & rear ?
There is no point in using them in the back, the back doesn't turn :-)
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:51 PM   #2069
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The dcj's and sway bars make a HUGE improvement on the S1. The sway bars make the car feel sooo much more planted and are well worth the inexpensive cost.
I ran 2 S1's one with and one without sway bars on the same tracks as MrJudd and on the low grip asphalt tracks i preferred without, and now with 2 pro specs, setup one with and one without sway bars, i honestly cannot tell the difference.

The one with is 10.5 Spec on Foams, and the one without is a 7.5 boosted in mod on rubber and TBH they both feel the same to me. But that might just be the tires making all the difference.

As for the Dcj's, I have not seen any need for them on either car, as there is no chatter even with 35 Deg of steering throw either way. And what MrJudd is seeing as chatter is outer wheel hop from using a spool and not keeping the power up in corners.
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:27 PM   #2070
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I ran 2 S1's one with and one without sway bars on the same tracks as MrJudd and on the low grip asphalt tracks i preferred without, and now with 2 pro specs, setup one with and one without sway bars, i honestly cannot tell the difference.

The one with is 10.5 Spec on Foams, and the one without is a 7.5 boosted in mod on rubber and TBH they both feel the same to me. But that might just be the tires making all the difference.

As for the Dcj's, I have not seen any need for them on either car, as there is no chatter even with 35 Deg of steering throw either way. And what MrJudd is seeing as chatter is outer wheel hop from using a spool and not keeping the power up in corners.
I've actually seen the non-DCJ chatter first hand. It's very obvious when you look at it. As soon as my friend turned his wheels, the whole front end would shake like crazy (wheels spinning, obviously). I still highly recommend DCJs up front.
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