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Old 10-28-2013, 05:16 PM   #2026
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thats the spirit roger! I did the same with my S1 but with my full orca 4.5 system which figured might grenade the car as i throw a ton of boost in my mod cars. its actually very civil. not at all what i expected.
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Old 10-30-2013, 10:28 AM   #2027
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I'm seriously considering to buy the R1 Pro Spec kit instead of a TRF418.
Although my personal favourite is and has always been tamiya but as i'm unemployed and being back a student i have to look what suits my budget.
And this car fit's it very well
It does look great with all the red anodized alu parts and i know some guys who run the Spec-R S1&R1 cars and they have nothing but good comments.
I would like to use some tamiya TRF417 spurs (if that's possible) because of the tamiya pinions i have.
Are there any extra recomended parts needed besides the kit?
For sure the delrin gear shaft pom bushings.
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Old 10-30-2013, 03:15 PM   #2028
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great looking car, i really like the red parts, consicering making my new mi5 red too..

you can fit all std spurs to the car.
i dont know how the prospec chassi is, but with the option 2.25 chassi, centerpost motormount and new topdeck i couldnt get a grip on the car, have tried alot of things but couldnt get it fast! i was faster with the std r1 car with the stiffer carbon fibre for sure!
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Old 10-30-2013, 03:20 PM   #2029
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I'm running my S1/R1 car in my club's VTA class and it works extremely well for me. My chassis is mostly R1 with the exception of all the bulkheads which are the S1 plastic parts. Rock solid and fast.
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Old 10-30-2013, 03:46 PM   #2030
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My prospec runs great. If I remember correctly the chassis was 2.3mm when I measured so I'm assuming it is the same as the option chassis that is out now. Its working outstanding for USVTA. Its extremely quick and handles amazing. My only issue was with ball cups coming off after even a minimal touch. I ended up replacing all the balls and cups with xray though and fixed the issue.
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:50 AM   #2031
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The Pro-Spec kit has the 2.25mm chassis, the floating servo mount, slightly different top deck and (supposedly) different material shock towers. All in all basically an R1 that's a tad more flexible. However, I believe you can make the R1 just as flexible if you leave out the top deck screws that screw into the motor mount.

I actually upgraded my R1 to the 2.25mm chassis just as an experiment (I get bored ), and so far I see no negative impact. I don't see much positive either, but the car handles fine.
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Old 10-31-2013, 01:12 PM   #2032
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Id also recommend team magic e4 ballcups. Those fit nice and tight and just do not pop off.
Of course need studs to match.
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Old 10-31-2013, 01:31 PM   #2033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valk View Post
Id also recommend team magic e4 ballcups. Those fit nice and tight and just do not pop off.
Of course need studs to match.
+1 @ ball cups

I've also replaced the aluminum spec R turnbuckles with titanium ones after this happened..

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Old 10-31-2013, 04:07 PM   #2034
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LOL wow! I would think after a certain angle it would break and not bend that much!
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Old 10-31-2013, 05:22 PM   #2035
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aluminum can be tempered like other metals, i guess those ones are NOT lol. I usually stick to steel turnbuckles.. the weight savings from turnbuckles are so fractionally small im just not a consistant enough driver to ever notice.. same with screws.. stainless screws that wont strip the hexes out.
what would be interesting to see is a coated steel turnbuckle that starts from hex stock and drilled out hollow. weight savings and tempered strength

oh, pleased to report that the S1 handled carpet FRICKEN AWESOME. i left the setup the same from the last two weeks of outdoor and just put it down right after setup. track had been in storage all spring/summer so there was no traction really built up.
Car was very planted and composed. ill have to test it out with a few different settings before our big wcics race but i was easily able to match laptimes of the 13.5 1/12th cars which is pretty awesome for 17.5 rubber tire.
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Old 11-01-2013, 05:14 AM   #2036
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Hi all,
Got one of these Spec-r S-1's second hand from RogerdaShurubber. Haven't had much chance to run it. Went to the track last Friday night, but as luck would have it, my receiver decided that it was its turn to give up the ghost. Running the same 10.5T Foam class as Roger and have just upgraded from a HPI Sprint 2 Flux. Can't wait to see how much better it is once I get my new TX/RX combo set up. Changed from the RTR HPI gear to a FS GT3-C. (Yeah racing on a really tight budget)

Might have to get a few bits here and there. Going to take the titanium turnbuckles off of the HPI and get some new ball cups, also looking at the floating servo mount. Is there anything else that you guys would recommend? Also looking at replacing the screws with Ti, after all I know how many high speed crashes this thing has been through.
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Old 11-01-2013, 05:48 AM   #2037
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I've been reading that this car has the same suspension geometry as a tamiya, but is it possible to use the tamiya suspension arms?
Then i don't need to spend some money on extra spare parts and am i able to spend the saved money on better parts like the center pulleys, gear diff (front), alu belt stabilizer mount and those C.V. universal swing shafts.
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Old 11-01-2013, 06:36 AM   #2038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
I've been reading that this car has the same suspension geometry as a tamiya, but is it possible to use the tamiya suspension arms?
Then i don't need to spend some money on extra spare parts and am i able to spend the saved money on better parts like the center pulleys, gear diff (front), alu belt stabilizer mount and those C.V. universal swing shafts.
I am pretty sure the T3 xray arms will work, don't know about the Tamaya. Alloy centre pulleys i think are a must, I prefer a front gear diff over spool, the swing shafts i would not worry so much.

For the rest of it, i am with Valk, steel turnbuckles, steel screws and ball ends for durability over weight savings. Titanium is a waste of money unless you are Ronald Volkier or Mark Reihnhard, have a Sd-Dev of 0.100 or are totally pro

@Valk good news on the carpet front then. We might be getting a local carpet track and it will be great to know the car will hook up just nicely on it. And as of next year, we go to 13.5T for stock, so it will be rock on all round
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Old 11-01-2013, 09:19 AM   #2039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
I've been reading that this car has the same suspension geometry as a tamiya, but is it possible to use the tamiya suspension arms?
Then i don't need to spend some money on extra spare parts and am i able to spend the saved money on better parts like the center pulleys, gear diff (front), alu belt stabilizer mount and those C.V. universal swing shafts.
The Tamiya arms should work. I've measured them side by side and are almost exact except for the molded sway bar ball ends.
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:32 AM   #2040
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Quote:
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The Tamiya arms should work. I've measured them side by side and are almost exact except for the molded sway bar ball ends.
Thx for this info
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