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Old 09-25-2013, 11:39 AM   #1996
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Actually that is a bit unusual, on slow post, generally you will have it in 7 days. I have had one package get lost and that took 3 weeks or there abouts to arrive, but spec-r were great, after i notified them of it being late, they got onto HK post about it and said if you have not got it in 7 days, we will repost it at their expense. It arrived one day before the time limit, date stamped the day they said it was posted, so it was just lost, not tracking number games that some places do, issue the number and send it a week later.
Just got an email from them. They said they had sent me an email because the top deck I ordered wasn't recommended with the center motor mount. I never saw any email, so never responded. After a few day delay they went ahead and shipped it.

The whole thought and intention is awesome. Sucks it wasn't executed.

So now I apparently have a mismatched pile of parts coming. I really wish they would of just had an upgrade kit. Worse case I don't run the center motor mount until I figure out which top deck is required.
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Old 09-25-2013, 04:58 PM   #1997
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Just got an email from them. They said they had sent me an email because the top deck I ordered wasn't recommended with the center motor mount. I never saw any email, so never responded. After a few day delay they went ahead and shipped it.

The whole thought and intention is awesome. Sucks it wasn't executed.

So now I apparently have a mismatched pile of parts coming. I really wish they would of just had an upgrade kit. Worse case I don't run the center motor mount until I figure out which top deck is required.
Pretty sure all you have to do is drill one hole in the top deck to make it work with the new motor mount, all it does is have a place for a screw to limit or change the amount of flex in the top deck.

The correct top decks are type A or B Narrow, and in most cases you will probably want to have no screw in there anyways for maximum flex, so dont stress it, it will work.
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:02 PM   #1998
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I have had good luck with my associated car, never broke one in two years and I have not touched the wall with my trf417. The tamiya are just fine to me, but I seem to grow white hairs and have chit hit the fan every time I tried to take that stupid plastic snap in outdrive just to clean the damn bearings. Seems like the spec-r is just drop and play. Was mainly concerned how durable the outdrive is and if I was to hit a wall ( dog bone, outdrive, axle) is the carnage since there won't be any give??
I have had nothing bend or break yet while using them on both my previous car 416 and my R1 now no pin wear or anything else. This is all with steel bones I would think that any alum bone would bend right away.
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Old 09-26-2013, 10:49 AM   #1999
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I've broken hinge-pins and bent rear hub ball studs from hitting the wall. but never broken or bent an axle or aluminum dog bone. Aluminum bones are fine as long its 17.5 or 13.5 blinky .
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Old 10-04-2013, 07:57 AM   #2000
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Hi!
I bought a S1 a while ago, and finaly found the time to build it. I will not race it, just playing around on a small carpet-track. This is the first 4wd touring "race"car I've built, but I think I did quite well.
I have only one issue so far. I've read all the 130 pages in this thread (maybe missed one or five ) but did not see it adressed.
The rear belt rubs on the spur. Feel like I hav tried everything. Something just seem to be a bit off.
Built by thebook except for some shimming to get rid of some play here and there.
Do you guys have any hints for me?

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Old 10-04-2013, 08:00 AM   #2001
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Shouldn't be possible. You don't have the gear diff flipped around the wrong way do you?

Or did you miss the black plastic spacers inboard of the bearings on the gear diff?

Take a picture and post it here.
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Old 10-04-2013, 08:37 AM   #2002
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Thanks!
On closer inspection both belts creep inward while the car is rolling.

Will take some pics later.
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Old 10-04-2013, 08:46 AM   #2003
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Thanks!
On closer inspection both belts creep inward while the car is rolling.

Will take some pics later.
Pictures would definitely help, but I'm not sure how your belts can creep inward. As was asked above, are you sure your diff and spool are flipped the correct way? My belts run perfectly parallel down the center, I really have no idea how you could even get them at an angle unless the diff/spool are flipped.

Anyway, take a picture and we'll help
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:06 AM   #2004
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Make sure the tensioners are set the same. It can be tricky on this car to get them to sit right when you tighten the upper bulkheads down.
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:12 AM   #2005
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The diffs are the right way. Otherwise it would completely lock up. Or the belt would walk outwards at the diffs.

I was pretty sure that I got the tensioners right, but I was kind of tired Will look into that...
thanks a lot so far!
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:23 AM   #2006
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Alternately, you might need to adjust the shimming on your layshaft or the difs themselves. I never worry about this to be honest. Unless the belts are binding badly on the sides of he pullies or want to jump off. Never had a tc where the belts didnt wander a little.
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:59 PM   #2007
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Looks like I'm having issues uploading pics here. Technology these days.

Maybe it's ok and that it is all the miniZ racing that makes me ekstremely vary of slop and drag.

Last edited by TheCarbabe; 10-05-2013 at 04:38 PM.
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Old 10-05-2013, 02:19 PM   #2008
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tried my updated r1 for the first time on carpet today (low traction) car handles really nice with the flexier parts, just needs to find the right flexpoint. also we have gone from 17.5boost to blinky here, as the class now are now rather slow there are more to do with cornerspeeds, the new chassi/topdeck/motormount are a BIG improvement from the old r1 carbon parts! really looking forward to the first racemeeting for the season!
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:11 AM   #2009
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Alright, I've pretty much had it with the stock plastic outdrives for the front spool. If I want metal outdrives up front, what are my options? Any metal ones fit the stock spool?

I know I can put a gear diff up front and stuff it with putty, but I'm hoping I can still work with this spool. If not, which metal-outdrive spools would fit? I've only seen the Tamiya 417 mentioned once.
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:34 AM   #2010
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Alright, I've pretty much had it with the stock plastic outdrives for the front spool. If I want metal outdrives up front, what are my options? Any metal ones fit the stock spool?

I know I can put a gear diff up front and stuff it with putty, but I'm hoping I can still work with this spool. If not, which metal-outdrive spools would fit? I've only seen the Tamiya 417 mentioned once.
Spec R makes spring steel outdrives....

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3022
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