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Old 09-15-2013, 07:23 AM   #1966
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Are there any hard front bumpers that fit this car?
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Old 09-15-2013, 07:57 AM   #1967
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xray bumper
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:00 AM   #1968
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The one from the T3 or T4?
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:33 AM   #1969
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The one from the T3 or T4?
Yep
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:07 PM   #1970
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I have a xray t3 hard bumper on mine. Fits perfect.
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Old 09-15-2013, 03:33 PM   #1971
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I'm helping a friend build his R1 Pro and I've run into a couple issues I need some help with.

We got the center shaft installed using the aluminum shaft and Teflon bushings and there is a bit of side to side play. Are you guys shimming the play out or leaving it? It's about .1-.3 mm of play.

Also, the steering rack is binding with the carbon stiffener installed. Does it need additional shimming? If so, how much is everyone adding?

Thanks for the help.
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Old 09-15-2013, 07:59 PM   #1972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Csaari77 View Post
I'm helping a friend build his R1 Pro and I've run into a couple issues I need some help with.

We got the center shaft installed using the aluminum shaft and Teflon bushings and there is a bit of side to side play. Are you guys shimming the play out or leaving it? It's about .1-.3 mm of play.

Also, the steering rack is binding with the carbon stiffener installed. Does it need additional shimming? If so, how much is everyone adding?

Thanks for the help.
If you're using the kit bushings for the center shaft, most of us just used flanged bearings with Kimbrough spur gears. Search the thread for those and you'll get some dimensions and part numbers. Alternatively, I believe you can use the "alternative" white bushings that Spec-R released some time ago, they're a bit longer than the black bushings and take up the slack (from what I remember reading).

As for the steering rack binding... where exactly is it binding? Do you mean the top deck makes it bind?
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:00 PM   #1973
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Second day out with the S1 today and couldnt have had more varied conditions from round to round..
the track was setup and sprayed with sugar water the previous day which made for a very dirty, wet and slippery surface this morning. our tires were coming off with a new layer of rubber/sugar crap and made for an interesting first round.

though, the S1, which i basically guessed a setup on my bench weeks before, with the addition of swaybars kicked serious ass in this first round. i set an early TQ, that would stand until the end of the third round.

second round was a total wash as some rain started to fall just before the start of the race. not a lot, but enough to wash out the traction that had been built up the previous round. the car instantly turned into a drift machine and i just couldnt manage it. some other guys got quite a lead on me just managing the drift. at 3 minutes the traction can back and i was able to get the car on line somewhat better but just too much lost time heh. fast 28 laps set in the first round went down to 20-22 laps in the second round.. which is still pretty fast with the drift session.

third round started off really awesome. i started on pole and had a clean start, but got a little loose and feel back. came back to lead but the smallest of taps was enough to pull my servo horn ballstud out and finish my race.. the car was driving SUPER nice though. no changes from the first round but a fresh set of sweep qts32s and it was on rails.

the rain came around and cancelled the main events.

qualified third overall a few seconds from 29 laps so pretty happy overall.

ill compose a setup later on but really all i did was go through the car and shim it properly, mess with shock position, remove top deck screws ect. stiff car still but handled really great.

also very happy with my $64 speed passion power. but ill try my orca TX motor with the reventon stock next race day.

when we move indoors ill do a LOT more testing of this car as ill be able to go every week.
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:25 PM   #1974
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
If you're using the kit bushings for the center shaft, most of us just used flanged bearings with Kimbrough spur gears. Search the thread for those and you'll get some dimensions and part numbers. Alternatively, I believe you can use the "alternative" white bushings that Spec-R released some time ago, they're a bit longer than the black bushings and take up the slack (from what I remember reading).

As for the steering rack binding... where exactly is it binding? Do you mean the top deck makes it bind?
The steering rack was solved by using a .1mm shim between the carbon brace and the bearing. Without the shim the brace was binding the bearing.

The shaft play is there using the white bushings. The play is between the flange of the bushing and the outside of the motor mount.
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:12 PM   #1975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Csaari77 View Post
The steering rack was solved by using a .1mm shim between the carbon brace and the bearing. Without the shim the brace was binding the bearing.

The shaft play is there using the white bushings. The play is between the flange of the bushing and the outside of the motor mount.
If I'm understanding which play you're talking about, I actually used a shim washer on the outside, right under the screw washer. It's larger diameter to go around the shaft, allowing the screw washer (the cone red one) to properly hold the shaft bushing in place.
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:04 PM   #1976
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If I'm understanding which play you're talking about, I actually used a shim washer on the outside, right under the screw washer. It's larger diameter to go around the shaft, allowing the screw washer (the cone red one) to properly hold the shaft bushing in place.
Installed 2 7mm x.1mm shims on each side over white bushing between flange and motor mount. Play is now gone and spins free.
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:20 AM   #1977
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Just got the pro version partially assembled and ran into this issue.

The motor/shaft mount pieces and the bulkhead are different heights....why??? But here is the issue, it says to put 1mm spacer on top of the motor/shaft mount to equalize the height. That doesn't do it. Still tweaks the chassis bad when you do this. Anyone else run into this and have a solution?
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:36 AM   #1978
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the gap is there to let the topdeck flex more free when not using the 4 screws to get more traction, its the same with the new center motormount
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:11 PM   #1979
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How does leaving these screws out work on med/high bite carpet? Without getting some super thin shims or fabricating something the gap that is there is not precise enough to tighten down per the manual.
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Old 09-21-2013, 05:50 PM   #1980
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I just race on low-med traction carpet so i dont know. First run getting close! Very curious on how the new parts work
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Last edited by Bappe; 09-22-2013 at 07:31 AM.
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