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Old 09-06-2013, 08:07 PM   #1921
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Any idea which springs are harder/softer in the S1 kit? Manual doesn't really say, and I haven't been able to find out...
Count the number of coils and measure the wire diameter, more coils thinner wire == softer.
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Old 09-06-2013, 08:23 PM   #1922
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I think i read somewhere in this thread that the red is 2.9-3.0 and the whites were 2.7ish.
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Old 09-06-2013, 08:46 PM   #1923
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I think i read somewhere in this thread that the red is 2.9-3.0 and the whites were 2.7ish.
2.9-3.0 what?

I'm used to pan-car shocks and springs (8-lb, 12-lb, 7-lb, etc.)...LOL...

Is 2.9 softer than a 2.7, or vice-versa, or...?
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:38 PM   #1924
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Originally Posted by JimmyMack12 View Post
2.9-3.0 what?

I'm used to pan-car shocks and springs (8-lb, 12-lb, 7-lb, etc.)...LOL...

Is 2.9 softer than a 2.7, or vice-versa, or...?
Lower number is softer.

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Old 09-06-2013, 10:41 PM   #1925
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Here is a very useful chart from our friends at Reflex Racing

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Old 09-07-2013, 01:37 AM   #1926
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Low friction belts for the T4, looks like they should be an exact fit for the R1/S1. http://www.redrc.net/2013/09/xray-t4...-kevlar-belts/
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I have run the new xray belts and spec r vesion, I found not a lot of difference between them.
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Old 09-08-2013, 03:53 PM   #1927
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Default Check your C-Hubs!

Screw fell out of the bottom of my RF Steering Block. Turns out the screw fell out because the back side of the bottom of the steering block was missing.

Put it back together and something felt wonky. Took the C-Block/Hub out and inspected it carefully and found a hairline crack. It was still holding everything together and the crack was almost invisible.

So then I take my LF suspension apart and sure enough, that C-Block was cracked. Lord knows how long I've been driving on it this way.

Long story even longer..., so then I take my second (VTA) S1 apart, and you guessed it, another cracked C-Block!

Point being, apparently they crack easily and they don't necessarily fail catastrophically.

I'm going to blame these for all of my bad driving of late...
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:00 PM   #1928
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Originally Posted by .crispy View Post
Screw fell out of the bottom of my RF Steering Block. Turns out the screw fell out because the back side of the bottom of the steering block was missing.

Put it back together and something felt wonky. Took the C-Block/Hub out and inspected it carefully and found a hairline crack. It was still holding everything together and the crack was almost invisible.

So then I take my LF suspension apart and sure enough, that C-Block was cracked. Lord knows how long I've been driving on it this way.

Long story even longer..., so then I take my second (VTA) S1 apart, and you guessed it, another cracked C-Block!

Point being, apparently they crack easily and they don't necessarily fail catastrophically.

I'm going to blame these for all of my bad driving of late...
Can you take a picture of where yours are cracking?
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:20 PM   #1929
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I'm going to blame these for all of my bad driving of late...
Perhaps the bad driving is to blame for the cracks After my next club meet, i am going to replace the front C hubs and steering knuckles, just to be sure, they have started to get a little too sloppy for my liking. They have taken 6 months of C main ping pong and dodgem car racing, so i think it is time to change them over before they fail.
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:21 PM   #1930
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Both of these are cracked at the 6 o'clock position and then going to the outside.



Both are cracked all the way through, but still hold everything together well enough to not be readily apparent. Keep in mind, I had to clean grease and carpet fuzz off of these.

Last edited by .crispy; 09-08-2013 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:50 PM   #1931
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Hmm need to check mine out. Lately my car has been handling weird also. Couldn't find any issues. Maybe that's it!!
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:20 AM   #1932
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If you are using the aluminum ball studs check those to. They are pretty soft and I found all of mine bent that was throwing my car off. Havn't seen any cracks anywhere.
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Old 09-09-2013, 11:25 AM   #1933
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have you shimmed away the sloop in the c hubs? i did a tc6 mod to mine, schim to stop back/forth play + ca glue on the hingepin because of the hole being a tad to large, that might help a little by stoping it from moving so much.. mine had ALOT of sloop out of the box.

strange way to break a c hub, will look at mine a little closer during the winter for sure
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:49 PM   #1934
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Hello all,
I am waiting for TQ to get the 2.25mm chassis back in stock. I see a 2.00mm and 2.00mm type A top deck available. Which version top deck will bring my R1 to "Pro Spec?"
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Old 09-09-2013, 02:02 PM   #1935
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i think A topdeck is the one that comes with the prospec car. i opted for the B type as it should be a little softer.

you will get a totally different feeling in the cars flex with the new chassi and topdeck, cant wait to try my car
you might want to get the new center motormount too
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