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Old 07-29-2013, 03:20 PM   #1741
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go for the xcar 120a instead, still a very good price! they are hw copies, but has alot lower burst current than hobbywing, the 120a has about the same burst current as xerun 90a

better to be on the safe side
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:01 PM   #1742
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I was thinking about another parameter which could limit the phenomen. Maybe you can try to minimize the rear droop to limit the mass transfers in the braking phase. What do you think?
I don't have much experience with braking. I almost never do it in 25.5 or 17.5 on our carpet track, and if I do, it's just a really light brush. I'll be running mod this winter, so maybe that'll change.

-Mike
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:16 PM   #1743
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I don't have much experience with braking. I almost never do it in 25.5 or 17.5 on our carpet track, and if I do, it's just a really light brush. I'll be running mod this winter, so maybe that'll change.

-Mike
If you have never driven mod, maybe start with a 10.5 in blinky, then go boost, then move to a 8.5 then 6.5 again blinky first then boost, kind of work your way into it, going from 17.5 blinky to 6.5 boosted is like going from a slight jog to a rocket launch and you will find it way to much and all over the top.

Trackstar motors are cheap, also look about for 2nd hand motors also, you might score some bargains couple of weeks on each motor and you should be comfortable enough to move on up to the next one.
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:34 PM   #1744
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If you have never driven mod, maybe start with a 10.5 in blinky, then go boost, then move to a 8.5 then 6.5 again blinky first then boost, kind of work your way into it, going from 17.5 blinky to 6.5 boosted is like going from a slight jog to a rocket launch and you will find it way to much and all over the top.

Trackstar motors are cheap, also look about for 2nd hand motors also, you might score some bargains couple of weeks on each motor and you should be comfortable enough to move on up to the next one.
I've driven a 10.5 boosted in mod maybe 8 or so races in the last 6 months or so. After working my way to the sharp end of a very fast 17.5 field last season, I can handle it just fine, but the brakes are too weak on my current setup, and the rip is still little enough that I'm still using a more stock-ish driving style. So my setup hasn't changed much.

I've had my eye on an LRP Flow Works Team + Reedy 5.5 for the rug this winter. It'll be for a couple events I'm sure, while I get things dialed in. But then it'll be soon enough.

-Mike
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:02 PM   #1745
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Oh you should be more than fine then go hard and win.
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:17 AM   #1746
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found the new optionchassi in stock at egr racing so have ordered one now! as i think the 2.5mm chassi is too stiff, and i had some spare time today i decided to take it down to 2mm instead! some glass, 2mm steel at all sides of the chassi and 2hours later its now 2mm thick (and 13g lighter..)

looking forward to try it out and then try the new 2.25mm chassi

pics:




next step will be to shave std topdeck down to 1.5mm
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:22 AM   #1747
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Bappe - how did you shave the chassis down to 2mm?
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:26 AM   #1748
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40grit sandpaper (not really sure thats the right spelling in english!?) on a large piece of glass, with chassi sitting with 2mm steel pieces on all sides, finnishing the surface with 1200 sandpaper.
have measured it and its even to 99%, on one part in the front its a 0.05mm difference from left to right
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:07 PM   #1749
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go for the xcar 120a instead, still a very good price! they are hw copies, but has alot lower burst current than hobbywing, the 120a has about the same burst current as xerun 90a

better to be on the safe side
Would i be able to use a 6.5t or 5.5t motor with the xcar 120a esc?
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:14 PM   #1750
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yes you would, but looking at the burst current im not sure that it would like things like boost or turbo when using low turn motors as 6.5 or 5.5t. but if you happen to smoke it its not really alot of money lost
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:13 PM   #1751
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Excuse me as I'm sure this has been covered before. I am putting together my S1. This is my first touring car build, as I have been running Mini exclusively. The spur gear assembly has some side to side movement. A fair bit. Is this right, or should I shim it?
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:10 PM   #1752
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I am putting together my S1. The spur gear assembly has some side to side movement. A fair bit. Is this right, or should I shim it?
There's a fair bit of play on my R1 spur assembly, but after a couple of thousand rounds I haven't had any problems. I just make sure the spur and pinion always overlap completely.

Last edited by bakoo; 07-30-2013 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:35 PM   #1753
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There's a fair bit of play on my R1 spur assembly, but after a couple of thousand rounds I haven't had any problems. I just make sure the spur and pinion always overlap completely.
Ok good. Maybe it was designed to be 'floating'.
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:45 PM   #1754
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Originally Posted by poeee View Post
Excuse me as I'm sure this has been covered before. I am putting together my S1. This is my first touring car build, as I have been running Mini exclusively. The spur gear assembly has some side to side movement. A fair bit. Is this right, or should I shim it?
You can shim it, just make sure there's still a tiny bit of movement or it'll really bind the drivetrain up.
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:29 PM   #1755
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Excuse me as I'm sure this has been covered before. I am putting together my S1. This is my first touring car build, as I have been running Mini exclusively. The spur gear assembly has some side to side movement. A fair bit. Is this right, or should I shim it?
A lot of people buy and use these:

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=5050

instead of the ones that came with the kit.

I used a white one on one side and a black on the other. Shimmed it just enough to take out the slop without binding.
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