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Old 07-25-2013, 08:51 AM   #1711
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A movie from todays asphalt testing, unprepped low traction asphalt, slightly boosted 8.5 motor

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:39 PM   #1712
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Hi all, I already asked a bunch of questions regarding the spec r r1 a lot of months back. I just want to know if there is anything that I should watch out for, now that people have a little bit more time on their cars. I have been reading this thread a lot and have read that people have been having problems with parts rubbing, parts breaking, parts not fitting exactly right. I plan on getting some dcj's or whatever there called nowadays to get rid of the vibration in the front suspension. Even with this upgrade, is there still excessive vibration or will the upgrade fix it? I race on carpet with wood and plastic barriers. I don't want durability to be an issue. What attracted me to this car originally was the price tag. Will this price tag stand or should I just spend the extra money getting an xray t3 or t4. Btw I will most likely have to get parts shipped so I don't want to be having to ship parts every week or so because I broke. I guess my last two questions would be do the diffs leak and would you recommend this car? I have been having problems with spec r diffs leaking a crazy amount. Sorry for all the questions.

-Austin
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:59 PM   #1713
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Hi all, I already asked a bunch of questions regarding the spec r r1 a lot of months back. I just want to know if there is anything that I should watch out for, now that people have a little bit more time on their cars. I have been reading this thread a lot and have read that people have been having problems with parts rubbing, parts breaking, parts not fitting exactly right. I plan on getting some dcj's or whatever there called nowadays to get rid of the vibration in the front suspension. Even with this upgrade, is there still excessive vibration or will the upgrade fix it? I race on carpet with wood and plastic barriers. I don't want durability to be an issue. What attracted me to this car originally was the price tag. Will this price tag stand or should I just spend the extra money getting an xray t3 or t4. Btw I will most likely have to get parts shipped so I don't want to be having to ship parts every week or so because I broke. I guess my last two questions would be do the diffs leak and would you recommend this car? I have been having problems with spec r diffs leaking a crazy amount. Sorry for all the questions.

-Austin
No, for the most part this car is money. Sure you need the R1? The S1's chassis has more flex and may be better for carpet.

I did break one drive shaft and upgraded to the better ones up front. Also bought a gear diff for the front (no issues with it leaking). I did finally break my first C block after months and months of banging off walls.

My S1 is just as fast as all of the $500+ Xrays at my track. We've got a guy that likes to torture himself and prove that a TC4 can still cut it in VTA. Well, he made the A-main a few weeks back when I didn't. He drove my S1 in the main and won by a lap.

"Money" for very little money.

And yes, I do have to maintain a very complete supply of parts as I have to come prepared. I spent about a $100 to stock my box 'o parts.
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Old 07-25-2013, 01:28 PM   #1714
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The s1 chassi is stiffer than the r1 std chassi (compared to old r1 2.5mm chassi, even stiffer than the new 2.25mm carbon..)

i bought one as glassfiber should have more flex, but this one hasnt.
i have spent hours with the dremel milling out material out of the s1 chassi, narrowing it down, milling the same "shoulders" as the r1 chassi has but its still stiff, i threw it in the garbage bin...
also bought the s1 topdeck, have dremeld that alot too and been testing.
have also dremeld out the std chassi alot to gain traction, but will be getting the 2.25 mm option chassi now and start to test with that.
one big thing too if you buy a s1 car is the weight, its really heavy so if you want to stay close to the weight limit, you wont.
but if you want to start out testing touring or just want a kit that performs for little money, the s1 is a really good choice!

as i see it its worth the extra money for the new r1 pro chassi as you get a complete racecar that doesnt need any upgrades out of the box, at a quite good price

here is 2 pics, first of my dremeled std chassi vs std s1 chassi, pic 2 is of the s1 chassi after some work.. (made some other holes after pic 2 was taken before i threw it..)


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Old 07-25-2013, 02:58 PM   #1715
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Right now I have a Tamiya 417 that I am hoping to get rid of mainly because it traction rolls even after many set up changes. I used to have an Xray t3r which was a scaled down fiber glass version of the t3. I loved my t3r, but it wore out pretty fast because of all the scaled down parts of the t3. Im just worried that the S1 will wear out like my t3r did because of all the scaled down parts. Is there any signs of wear on your S1? Regardless, the price of the S1 is hard to pass up.

-Austin
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Old 07-25-2013, 03:04 PM   #1716
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None that I can ascertain.
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Old 07-25-2013, 03:40 PM   #1717
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if you already have a 417 then i would recommend to try to get some pointers from the 417 thread, thats a really good car!
r/s1 has the same suspension geometry as the 417 so not sure that you would be better of with a spec r car to be honest!

but if you want to change the thing youll win on a r1 is more alu, holds up better from wear, the suspension blocks is something that should be on every car, copied from kyosho there are plastic inserts to change widht/toe in, its lighter, the new pro car has more flex built in etc..

the car is solid, very little wear after 60+ packs, some sloop in the rear hub bearings, other than that its the same as it was from the beginning.

then ofcourse it depends on what class you are running, if you intend on running in the slower 21.5-25.5 classes wear should be quite small on most cars
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:43 PM   #1718
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I run in a 10.5T class with the S1 on foams, the only thing i have broken is one rear outer hinge pin after being T-Boned by a car at full speed and one front CVD again after being t-boned by a car traveling flat out, I have had some huge crashes with this car, and had nothing break at all in the way of plastics.

I really do not know what people are doing to be braking C-hubs all the time in slow classes like VTA and Stock, it must be a function of the track they drive on and the type of impact being performed or the repetitiveness of that impact.

I have hit curbs and launched the car into concrete barriers at full speed, traction rolled out of corners and had the car rolling end over end into fences, spun out and been t-boned by cars going flay out into a hair pin, and other than those couple of things that have broken it keeps coming back for more. I have broken more bodies than i have parts on this car
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Old 07-25-2013, 06:39 PM   #1719
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Right now I have a Tamiya 417 that I am hoping to get rid of mainly because it traction rolls even after many set up changes.
I battled traction roll for years with my Schumacher Mi4s.

Bottom line for me (but I suspect it could also work on your 417):

- Lightweight body, and don't over-paint it. This really makes quite a difference.

- Minimize ride height - this should go without saying.

- Use less steering dual rate. Turn your dual rate down until you can't turn the car hard enough to get it to traction roll. If your car is pushy, and you just use more steering throw, you'll just make it flip. This is very, very important, and it's not something you'll find on a setup sheet. Get the steering back with the rest of the setup.

- Less droop. 1.5 to 2mm up-travel in front, and about the same in the back (this has a big effect on balance so you'll have to see what the car likes). My understanding, which could be wrong, but it makes sense is: when the inside wheels hit the downstops, the roll center moves to the inside wheels, and more roll will compress the outside springs, sucking the car down to the track and lowering the CG, thus resisting traction roll. Too much rear droop compared to the front seems to give a push that just won't go away, and too little can make the car really nervous to drive, so you'll have to play with it.

- Move weight forward. Probably quite a bit. Like the Mi4, I think the Tamiya, and definitely the Spec-R, are quite rear-biased. Xray's are much closer to 50/50. I think that's why XRays are always so good on carpet, and Tamiya and Schumacher are good on asphalt. My theory here is that with the front end being so light and having high grip, the front can lift up more and dig in harder, flipping the car. After I moved my battery forward about 4-5mm, my traction roll problems were greatly reduced. Things you can do are a bigger spur/pinion to move the motor forward, get creative with the battery to move the battery forward. Move front and rear arms back (watch out for ackerman changes when moving the front arms back). You could even put the ESC in front of your receiver. Maybe shim the servo forward? When you move a lot of weight forward, you'll probably find that the car picks up a corner entry push, and gains a lot of corner exit / on power rotation. So you might have to tweak other parts of your setup to compensate, or just not move the weight forward quite so much.

- Heavier shock oil can help, because it keeps the car from developing so much roll momentum. This is more minor, though.

- Longer camber links that are higher on the inside can help too, by reducing camber gain and lowering the roll center (I think a lower roll center also helps to suck the car down to the track, but I'm not totally clear on that).

- Wider track width should help in theory.

- Yokomo Pink front / Blue rear springs were kind of magical for me. In terms of driving feel, they're pretty similar to HPI Pink / Silver, just a tick more sluggish. But the softening of the car's responses seems to help fight traction roll.

- Add weight. If all else fails, you can try just adding weights low down in the middle of the car. This can also be a way to move the weight bias forward. My car was much less prone to traction roll at 1420g than it ever was at 1380. And since traction roll was my limiting factor, it ended up being much faster.

The bottom line is that the 417 is a great car. Sure, it's known to traction roll on carpet, but while you may feel like you've tried everything, it really should be possible to at least get it under control. I suspect if you switched to an R1, you might be disappointed both in terms of build quality, as well as traction roll.

-Mike
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Old 07-25-2013, 09:54 PM   #1720
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The s1 chassi is stiffer than the r1 std chassi (compared to old r1 2.5mm chassi, even stiffer than the new 2.25mm carbon..)
Why do you say that the "old R1" comes with a 2.5mm chassis? Has that been changed, or are you talking about the new Pro Spec? My R1 has the 2.5mm, I'm still toying with swapping that out for something a little more flexible. Mostly looking for an excuse to wrench on it
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:41 PM   #1721
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I will have my R1 soon- anyone have a good starting setup for VTA on medium grip asphalt?
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:46 AM   #1722
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Why do you say that the "old R1" comes with a 2.5mm chassis? Has that been changed, or are you talking about the new Pro Spec? My R1 has the 2.5mm, I'm still toying with swapping that out for something a little more flexible. Mostly looking for an excuse to wrench on it
as there are an pro spec version out now i see the first r1 car with the 2.5mm chassi as the "old" car

funny, was going to order the new 2.25 option chassi, but its out of stock in most places (in hongkong, shipping from us is too expensive compared to hongkong to sweden)

i can only find the new 2.25mm option chassi, the 2.2mm chassi that is included in the new pro car isnt listed anywhere anymore?
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Old 07-26-2013, 01:08 PM   #1723
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as there are an pro spec version out now i see the first r1 car with the 2.5mm chassi as the "old" car

funny, was going to order the new 2.25 option chassi, but its out of stock in most places (in hongkong, shipping from us is too expensive compared to hongkong to sweden)

i can only find the new 2.25mm option chassi, the 2.2mm chassi that is included in the new pro car isnt listed anywhere anymore?
The 2.25 is out of stock in all the US places I looked too. As for the 2.2 chassis, I think that must be a typo, the Pro Spec comes with the 2.25mm: http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=515
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Old 07-26-2013, 02:52 PM   #1724
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Wrong thread, sorry.

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Old 07-27-2013, 12:22 AM   #1725
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Hey guys, im going to get myself a spec-r s1 and i have no onroad motor or esc for it so i as thinking of putting my castle creations sidewinder sct motor combo on it. Would it fit correctly? Would it burn the motor or esc? Im not going to race it, im just going to run it on the street infront of my house. Also am i able of putting the servo and remote that the hpi blitz brought on the touring car? Thanks for the help guys, really appreciate it.
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