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Old 07-15-2013, 05:50 PM   #1666
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Took whole steering linkage off, did the same thing. So its something else making the belt jumpy when at full throttle. My front spindle has the slightest wobble (its my second one, first one wobbled even more). Even though the belt is smooth as butter at full throttle with wheels straight, maybe the wobble gets amplified when wheels are at full turn somehow. The wheels are not touching anything at full turn, I have a few mm safety margin.

Maybe this is just overkill, since when do you have full throttle with wheels turned fully?

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I'll take a look at mine tonight while I've got the car apart. My front drive belt is pretty tight (not "loose" at all).

Will let you know the outcome.
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:42 PM   #1667
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Originally Posted by SamuraiJack View Post
Took whole steering linkage off, did the same thing. So its something else making the belt jumpy when at full throttle. My front spindle has the slightest wobble (its my second one, first one wobbled even more). Even though the belt is smooth as butter at full throttle with wheels straight, maybe the wobble gets amplified when wheels are at full turn somehow. The wheels are not touching anything at full turn, I have a few mm safety margin.

Maybe this is just overkill, since when do you have full throttle with wheels turned fully?
Looked at mine, and I have about the same clearance that you're showing in your pictures. No "wobble" in the hub carriers/spindles (make sure the screws are tight, and Loc-tite the screws into the inserts). The belt doesn't jump, either. I have "worked in" my car by running it out in a wide-open parking lot and an asphalt basketball court. I've run it at "full-throttle, lock-to-lock" turns (doin' donuts, and drifting it a bit), and have not had the problems you mention.

Without actually holding your car, it's hard to say where the problem may be.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:04 PM   #1668
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Whats a good setup for VTA?
First time onroad driver been doing offroad for bit over 2 years.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:32 PM   #1669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamuraiJack View Post
Took whole steering linkage off, did the same thing. So its something else making the belt jumpy when at full throttle. My front spindle has the slightest wobble (its my second one, first one wobbled even more). Even though the belt is smooth as butter at full throttle with wheels straight, maybe the wobble gets amplified when wheels are at full turn somehow. The wheels are not touching anything at full turn, I have a few mm safety margin.

Maybe this is just overkill, since when do you have full throttle with wheels turned fully?
I had the same problem and experience it (the bounce) in some parts of our track. I changed the front universal to DCJ and it solved it. By the way, those asking on what upgrade to put, DCJ is the only one I think and maybe softer springs.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:48 PM   #1670
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So couldn't I just lay the car flat on the chassis and basically eyeball this height with a caliper?
The thing you have to be careful of with just laying the chassis flat on a board is whether there are screws sticking out the bottom and making it sit crooked. Usually there's at least one that isn't totally flush.

Beyond that, though, some people will measure from the setup board to the center of the hinge pin or sometimes the center of the axle, using calipers. But then it can be harder to compare settings with other people.

-Mike
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:07 AM   #1671
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Whats a good setup for VTA?
First time onroad driver been doing offroad for bit over 2 years.
I've been told to get the gearing to about a 3.75. The drivetrain in the car is 1.9; so, to get the final drive ratio: spur/pinion x 1.9 will give you that 3.75 (or as close as you can get). I had to ditch the stock 48-pitch, 84-tooth gear in my S1. Basically, your pinion should be half of what your spur is, plus one tooth (or so). About the closest I can get is a 3.72 (100 spur/51 pinion x 1.9 = 3.72).

This is also my first on-road car. I'm running a Novak Edge ESC, and an SMC 5000mAh 2-cell ($30.00 from SMC). Running the Pegasus Camaro body. Haven't had a chance to race it yet :P
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:27 AM   #1672
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Whats a good setup for VTA?
First time onroad driver been doing offroad for bit over 2 years.
Seriously, the box stock setup was real close.

I put a gear diff in front with 500,000 wt. oil in it. Shocks have 30 wt in rear and 40 wt in front. Green and Silver Associated springs.

Other than that, stock. Stock positions on all links and shocks, etc...

I usually run around a 3.7 for VTA too. 96/49 I think.

My car has won the A-main here in Indy (with someone else driving it) against big dollar competition.
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:48 AM   #1673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
The thing you have to be careful of with just laying the chassis flat on a board is whether there are screws sticking out the bottom and making it sit crooked. Usually there's at least one that isn't totally flush.

Beyond that, though, some people will measure from the setup board to the center of the hinge pin or sometimes the center of the axle, using calipers. But then it can be harder to compare settings with other people.

-Mike
I'm going to get one of those droop gauges, probably Integy. We have the same issue with offroad when we try to compare. It's common to measure the shock length for droop but there's no way to compensate for the shock locations.

I'm still waiting for the track to open. I'm very interested to see how it compares to VRC which has basically been my only onroad experience.
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:41 AM   #1674
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My VTA setup on my S1 is:
the spacers under all the arm mounts
450cst oil in all shocks
no sways
5 front 6 rear on droop blocks
stock setup for everything else
3.72 FDR Full motor timing
I adjust camber so the tires wear equal/flat
I also run DCJ's in the front, that really allows me to carry corner speed even though they add alittle weight
I also run the alum rear cvd bone option
'68 Camaro
car is wicked fast, most of the other top drivers run tc4 and it keeps up no problem and is more durable
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:04 PM   #1675
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Quote:
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450cst oil in all shocks
I also run DCJ's in the front
What is "450cst" and "DCJ's"?
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:19 PM   #1676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyMack12 View Post
What is "450cst" and "DCJ's"?
The silicone oil you put in the shocks (and in the gear differential) has a specific thickness, or viscosity, measured in cSt (centistokes). Bigger numbers translates to thicker oil.

DCJs is short for Double Cardan Joints, which refers to drive shafts with two joints on them instead of just one. Shafts with two joints can handle bigger angles, and helps prevent the sideways movement that sometimes makes front wheels (and differential) wobble at high to full steering lock.
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:34 PM   #1677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bakoo View Post
The silicone oil you put in the shocks (and in the gear differential) has a specific thickness, or viscosity, measured in cSt (centistokes). Bigger numbers translates to thicker oil.

DCJs is short for Double Cardan Joints, which refers to drive shafts with two joints on them instead of just one. Shafts with two joints can handle bigger angles, and helps prevent the sideways movement that sometimes makes front wheels (and differential) wobble at high to full steering lock.
Oh, OK. Never heard of either one.

For shock oil, I've always heard of "30wt" (30-weight), "40wt", "70wt", etc. - the higher number being thicker in viscosity.

Any pics of these "DCJ" things?
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:35 PM   #1678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyMack12 View Post
Oh, OK. Never heard of either one.

For shock oil, I've always heard of "30wt" (30-weight), "40wt", "70wt", etc. - the higher number being thicker in viscosity.

Any pics of these "DCJ" things?
Weight is another way of classifying oil viscosities, but not as accurate since the definition varies between manufacturers. Here are a few tables of comparisons between different brands: http://www.rcrcr.com/index.php?optio...=article&id=56
If you check the bottom table, you can see that the viscosity varies significantly with temperature.

Here you can see the correlation between wt and cSt in Team Associated's oils: http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/liquids/

Finally, a stolen pic of a single jointed and a double jointed drive shaft - notice that the DCJ has two pivot pins:

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Old 07-16-2013, 02:27 PM   #1679
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Quote:
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Finally, a stolen pic of a single jointed and a double jointed drive shaft - notice that the DCJ has two pivot pins:

Where can we find these things, and how much?
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:09 PM   #1680
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I always use Mugen or Xray fluids and they don't come in WT....

DCJ:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2767

Close to 450cst in WT:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2508

Also forgot to post I run 2000CST in the rear gear diff:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3392
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