R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-12-2013, 06:04 PM   #1636
Tech Regular
 
SamuraiJack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Chicago
Posts: 459
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Oh I see what you mean. No, the rubbing happens well within the range of arms.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bakoo View Post
If you slowly turn the steering wheel until the wheels can't turn any more, and notice that the steering wheel (and more important, servo arm) can still move even more, you need to tell your transmitter to restrict the servo arm from traveling beyond that point (endpoint).

Squirrel made a video that shows how this works: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqJ5ws7sv04
SamuraiJack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2013, 07:04 PM   #1637
Tech Master
 
VenturaDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ventura, SoCal
Posts: 1,131
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Sounds like the belt must be a little too loose
__________________
Dustin Colt45 Aguirre
Kyosho RB6--Futaba--HW--Shuurspeed 17.5
Kyosho SCR--Hitec--Lrp--Yeah 13.5
Durango Dex210--Futaba--Trakpower--Tacon 8.5
VenturaDC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2013, 07:31 AM   #1638
Tech Addict
 
Bernard_Jr's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 744
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to Bernard_Jr
Default Onroad Newbie

We have a new indoor carpet track opening here in Jacksonville soon so I picked up a S1 to join the fun when I'm not racing offroad.

I've added front and rear swaybars since those just seem appropriate. I'll go ahead and start reading from page 1 but are there any changes I should make or suggestions on what spare parts to have in the box?

Thanks for the help.
(sorry if this is repetitive and yes I'll shorten the body mounts )
Attached Thumbnails
Spec-R R1-1015833_355953607841141_759506652_o.jpg  
__________________
John Bernard Jr.
Tekno RC / Hobbywing NA / JConcepts / NitroPro / Sylveris RC
River Rat Raceway / RC Addiction Products / RIP
http://www.youtube.com/user/Bigman4415?feature=mhum
http://johnbernardjr.wordpress.com
Bernard_Jr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2013, 08:06 AM   #1639
Tech Addict
 
shadowracer24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: lakeland fla.
Posts: 741
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

This car is pretty durable so you won't need much. The basics are spare front and rear arms. castor and steering blocks, the one thing that seems to be the weakest link is the outer hinge pins. They break easily if you get a good impact on them, will save an arm but a pain in the butt if you don"t have the replacment part. Xray pins will fit and they are a little stronger. Thats about it.
__________________
Richard Carpenter
SPEEDZONE Batteries Team Driver
BMI Team Driver
2014 F.E.D.S. Mod Sprint and Sportsman Late Model Champion
2013 FSERA World GT State Champion
shadowracer24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2013, 09:18 AM   #1640
Tech Apprentice
 
bakoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 66
Default

My friend's S1 apparently had 4 identical suspension mounts, and since they were on a parts tree, the mold itself must have been wrong. Since the identical mounts weren't 0 degrees, and they can't be turned around, both the front and rear inner toe was completely off and couldn't be fixed. Can only wonder how many others are running S1's with the same problem.

He switched to the R1 suspension mounts with inserts to get around the problem.

bakoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2013, 11:02 AM   #1641
Tech Master
 
EricW's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Meriden, Ct
Posts: 1,847
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bernard_Jr View Post
We have a new indoor carpet track opening here in Jacksonville soon so I picked up a S1 to join the fun when I'm not racing offroad.

I've added front and rear swaybars since those just seem appropriate. I'll go ahead and start reading from page 1 but are there any changes I should make or suggestions on what spare parts to have in the box?

Thanks for the help.
(sorry if this is repetitive and yes I'll shorten the body mounts )
Get a servo saver and maybe upgrade the steering rack.
__________________
Stickas are for straight up suckas......

**** "Luxury" ****
EricW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2013, 01:51 PM   #1642
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Indianapolis give or take...
Posts: 659
Default

I've had a ton of issues with screws backing out of the aluminum steering rack. Both the ball studs in the front and the top screws. I've used blue locktite but I don't want it getting in the bearings.
.crispy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2013, 10:08 PM   #1643
Suspended
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1,696
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bakoo View Post
My friend's S1 apparently had 4 identical suspension mounts, and since they were on a parts tree, the mold itself must have been wrong. Since the identical mounts weren't 0 degrees, and they can't be turned around, both the front and rear inner toe was completely off and couldn't be fixed. Can only wonder how many others are running S1's with the same problem.

He switched to the R1 suspension mounts with inserts to get around the problem.

I never had this problem, must have been unlucky, i have 2 S1 and both came out of the box perfect.
RogerDaShrubber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2013, 10:13 PM   #1644
Tech Master
 
big al's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Olympia,Wa
Posts: 1,024
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bakoo View Post
My friend's S1 apparently had 4 identical suspension mounts, and since they were on a parts tree, the mold itself must have been wrong. Since the identical mounts weren't 0 degrees, and they can't be turned around, both the front and rear inner toe was completely off and couldn't be fixed. Can only wonder how many others are running S1's with the same problem.

He switched to the R1 suspension mounts with inserts to get around the problem.

Aren't they supposed to be offset??
big al is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2013, 11:13 PM   #1645
Tech Master
 
VenturaDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ventura, SoCal
Posts: 1,131
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

That's exactly how mine looked and went together just fine, it clearly shows in the manual how to orient the offset mounts.....
__________________
Dustin Colt45 Aguirre
Kyosho RB6--Futaba--HW--Shuurspeed 17.5
Kyosho SCR--Hitec--Lrp--Yeah 13.5
Durango Dex210--Futaba--Trakpower--Tacon 8.5
VenturaDC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2013, 01:24 AM   #1646
Tech Apprentice
 
bakoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 66
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by VenturaDC View Post
That's exactly how mine looked and went together just fine, it clearly shows in the manual how to orient the offset mounts.....
In the manual, you can tell that the offset on the left and right is mirrored 180 degrees so the distance from the center to the inner pins remains identical on both sides.

On my friend's car, however, all the red lines on all four mounts are identical, i.e. not mirrored from left to right. All the blue lines are also identical, though not of the the same length as the red ones, making the distance from the center to the inner pins different on left and right.

bakoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2013, 06:13 AM   #1647
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Indianapolis give or take...
Posts: 659
Default

Sorry, he's installing them wrong.
.crispy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2013, 08:24 AM   #1648
Tech Apprentice
 
bakoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 66
Default You're missing the point, his kit had a production problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by .crispy View Post
Sorry, he's installing them wrong.
As I said before all four mounts that came with his kit were completely identical, with the skewed-to-left hole and everything - how on earth could they be installed in any other way?
If the parts were supposed to be identical, the hole would have to be in the middle to make the left and right toe symmetrical, and the manual wouldn't ask you to take note of the direction as it obviously doesn't matter how you mix and match 4 completely identical parts.

Anyway, if your out of the box inner toe seems completely off between left and right, you probably got a kit from a batch made with the same faulty mold as my friend. His solution was to get the R1 aluminium mounts with inserts, and lived happily with correct toe ever after
bakoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2013, 08:38 AM   #1649
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Indianapolis give or take...
Posts: 659
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bakoo View Post
As I said before all four mounts that came with his kit were completely identical, with the skewed-to-left hole and everything - how on earth could they be installed in any other way?
If the parts were supposed to be identical, the hole would have to be in the middle to make the left and right toe symmetrical, and the manual wouldn't ask you to take note of the direction as it obviously doesn't matter how you mix and match 4 completely identical parts.

Anyway, if your out of the box inner toe seems completely off between left and right, you probably got a kit from a batch made with the same faulty mold as my friend. His solution was to get the R1 aluminium mounts with inserts, and lived happily with correct toe ever after
Let's see a picture of four identical mounts?

I'm sorry, I don't believe that Spec-R has a faulty mold and produced exactly one kit with it.
.crispy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2013, 09:28 AM   #1650
Tech Adept
 
BajaSkidmark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 121
Default

I agree this chassis (R1) is very durable. I have never broken a pin yet though. I have put this car through some very heavy impacts with little to no damage at all. A few ball cups popping off here and there (I use Tamiya ball cups). Yesterday in practice I had my first major on track breakage. When I picked the car up, I was wondering where the front wheel had gone.



I found it residing in the rear of the car...







Amazingly enough I did not find any broken parts. The pivot balls and spacers were missing (somewhere on the track), and I found the shock laying on the track. I found one of the offset spacers out of the car and a bit deformed. But other than that, no broken parts. As someone who is new to this hobby and going through my learning curve, I am truly amazed at how well this car holds up to the abuse!
__________________
Spec-R R1 (VTA, SpecGT10)
F104
BajaSkidmark is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Team Losi JRXS Type-R Andrew Gray Electric On-Road 13440 03-26-2017 08:58 PM
2012 R.O.A.R Carpet Nationals andrewdoherty Electric On-Road 774 04-04-2012 03:26 PM
JR R1 Pro w/ case for sale... Sorcerer001 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 7 12-10-2004 11:44 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:08 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net