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Old 06-18-2013, 04:41 PM   #1561
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Is there an optional motor mount for the S1? I can't get to the motor screws to adjust the mesh on the pinion/spur gears.
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:57 PM   #1562
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Is there an optional motor mount for the S1? I can't get to the motor screws to adjust the mesh on the pinion/spur gears.
Not needed. There is a second hole on the stock motor mount that lets you use larger pinions. See the bottom of page 18 in the manual.

Last edited by SteveM; 12-24-2015 at 07:58 AM.
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:35 PM   #1563
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Not needed. There is a second hole on the stock motor mount that lets you use larger pinions. See the bottom of page 18 in the manual.
Ah ha, thank you!
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:03 AM   #1564
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Talking Spec-R1

Spec-R1 + Savo1251 + Sanwa 461 + Xerun 2.1 + Hobbykings =
Attached Thumbnails
Spec-R R1-2013-06-09-20.26.21.jpg   Spec-R R1-2013-06-09-20.27.09.jpg   Spec-R R1-2013-06-17-20.47.48.jpg  

Last edited by Zainy; 06-19-2013 at 04:05 AM. Reason: Add photo
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:01 AM   #1565
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new chassi from spec r, made to be used with the newer topdecks

also made to be used with a newer motormount that is released in a couple of days!

http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=507
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Last edited by Bappe; 06-19-2013 at 10:40 AM.
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Old 06-19-2013, 03:17 PM   #1566
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Atm the R1 is getting faster and faster.

What i think is a not well fanricated piece is the chubs. There a bit to soft.
Anyome know if i can get an other brand in there?

Cant find any different hardnes from spec r itself. Also no different angle of casterblocks.
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:06 PM   #1567
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Originally Posted by Cale79 View Post
Atm the R1 is getting faster and faster.

What i think is a not well fanricated piece is the chubs. There a bit to soft.
Anyome know if i can get an other brand in there?

Cant find any different hardnes from spec r itself. Also no different angle of casterblocks.
C hubs are fine, i have had 2 c-hub pins break on the rear from big impacts, the hubs themselves are fine. This is in 10.5, car is very durable.
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:11 PM   #1568
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arm c-hub knuckle rear uprights= xray
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Old 06-20-2013, 01:15 PM   #1569
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Quote:
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arm c-hub knuckle rear uprights= xray
Heard people say that but it is not true.
De pinholes in de chub is half the size. Also the arm is bend back so the wheelbase will change quite alot.
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Old 06-20-2013, 03:45 PM   #1570
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I have read before about Tamiya 417 C-Hub fitting but can't say about Xray..eyeballing they look similar cant say its so bend back other than the 4 degree caster..

Cale79 can you actually confirm the Xray C-Hub won't fit properly after trying it?

I'm actually in need of a left c-hub for this weekend and have a xray dealer 2 hr away so knowing first hand it fits or not will save me a long trip to come empty handed if finally find they dont fit when I'm at the shop..

thanks
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:39 PM   #1571
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Tonight i will get both cars apart to show what is different in the specific parts.
Casterangle is de same althought the model of the arm is bended backwards from xray. This is the reason why u would get a shorter wheelbase.

As said ill make some pictures when ill come home tonight.
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Old 06-21-2013, 01:47 AM   #1572
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Default Straight Help

Hi, I'm having a hard time getting my S1 to shoot straight. It would slightly veer off course in high speeds. Im using this for drag race on the street and sometimes on race track. What do I need to adjust or change?

Kit: S1
Upgrades:
-TRF shocks (blue up front, yellow springs at the rear, 35wt oil to all)
-Tamiya aluminum hex hubs (4mm)
-Tamiya ball cups (TRF dark grey)

Motor/Electronics:
-SP Reventon, boosted
-Ballistic 10.5T high rev
-Sanwa MT4
-Standard Futaba servo
-Intellect 6800mah LiPo

Suspension/settings
-Camber>> 2deg front (I did this to lessen front grip), 1deg rear
-Ride height>> 7mm front, 8mm rear
-Toe>> toe out front 2deg, toe in rear 2.5deg

Others:
-Gear diff oil >> 5000wt
-Droop >> 3-4mm

Body:
-Tamiya Audi R8

Wheels/tyres:
-HPI TE37 3mm offset
-Sorex 36R, medium inserts


With spool front, gear diff rear, I'm satisfied with its behaviour as it's aggressive in the corners but would slightly veer off in the straight parts of the track once in a while and would affect my throttle input (I can't get it to its full speed).

On the street, same character, I have to be alert all the time. It's not "nervous" or something. Only good thing I like in this set up is I can control the car's rotation (understeer and oversteer), I can induce them when I want to. My only problem is it's not tracking straight on any surface.

On low speeds (half throttle), it runs straight. I also tried switching the spool and gear diff and resulted in a loose rear end but still won't track straight.

Do I need to tinker with bumpsteer?

Any help?
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Old 06-21-2013, 01:57 AM   #1573
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are you using a servo saver? some servo saver dont return to center when steered hard both directions (tamiya and 3racing) try the kimbrough servo saver it centers very well.
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:05 AM   #1574
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Assuming your geometry is ok, i would be looking at tires. Switch your tires left to right and report back if the car starts pulling right instead of left. If it does, then you just need to replace your tires or put new inserts in them. If you are running the car as a drag car, get foams, you will be much happier.
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:27 AM   #1575
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Thanks for your replies.

Before I was using the kit's servo horn with the same behaviour. Now Im using an HPI servo saver after I broke a servo. Ive already shimmed the steering bell crank to minimize slop.

Do you think it's the steering system and not the suspension set up?

I also tried switching the tyres left and right, still the same. I know foams will help but it will just mask or hide the actual problem.

Im a little frustrated as it becomes unstable at high speed. My previous T2 2009 was very stable in straight line speed with almost the same set up. I want to see my S1 drive past me at full boosted rpm.
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