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Old 06-13-2013, 08:39 AM   #1546
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One of the downsides of the Spec-R is that I have to carry with me just about every spare part I might need. Good thing is, I haven't once had to dig into my spares.

But I would do that with any car, and none of them would cost $129...
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:32 PM   #1547
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same here, i am considering buying a s1 car for spares since its so cheap, always good to have in the box.
i really like the quality, the car has gone 60packs now and it still feels like new, no sloop in the suspension, more than a little more in the ballcups. pulleys and belts are in nice condition too (have only driven 17.5 boost so not really any hot stuff)
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Old 06-13-2013, 01:12 PM   #1548
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Any tricks to stopping the ballcups from popping off the ball studs when trying to adjust the links? I've tried screwing the links in and out of the ballcups a few times but they still seem to pop off when I'm trying to adjust the links.

Better to just replace the cups? If so what ones are recommended?

Thanks.
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Old 06-13-2013, 01:16 PM   #1549
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Any tricks to stopping the ballcups from popping off the ball studs when trying to adjust the links? I've tried screwing the links in and out of the ballcups a few times but they still seem to pop off when I'm trying to adjust the links.

Better to just replace the cups? If so what ones are recommended?

Thanks.
The popular choice is Tamiya ballcups, I've been using them and they definitely don't pop off.
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Old 06-13-2013, 01:21 PM   #1550
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I wonder if silicone lube will help.
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Old 06-13-2013, 02:45 PM   #1551
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I tried eveything and finally just gave up and got the tamiya ballcups. No more problems since.
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Old 06-13-2013, 02:47 PM   #1552
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The front and rear diffs are the same. Buy another and put it up front.

You'll need blades for the driveshafts. Spool doesn't use them.

You tune the diff with the weight of the oil in it. I have 500,000 in there now. Prob need 1,000,000. Some use putty.
OK, thanks. So, unlike an offroad buggy/truck, or a pan-car solid axle, there's no "nut" or "screw" to adjust the diff for different track conditions?

Again, being new to these cars...would you have to swap in a different diff with different weight oil<s> in it? Seems like a pain...
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:16 PM   #1553
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OK, thanks. So, unlike an offroad buggy/truck, or a pan-car solid axle, there's no "nut" or "screw" to adjust the diff for different track conditions?

Again, being new to these cars...would you have to swap in a different diff with different weight oil<s> in it? Seems like a pain...

It is not really, a days testing with a new car and you will have it dialed in to just how you like it. Diff oils are a tuning option and nothing more and then people make to big of a deal about it, because all it really amounts to is a balance of drive out of the corner verses the amount of rotation on entry to the corner.

Keep the spool in the front, this will give you maximum drive out of the corners, then tune the rear diff to give the amount of rotation required for the track. Thicker oil means more rotation, start at 1K and work your way up until you find the spot that suits how you drive. For me, 6K was the sweet spot with the spool. You can pick up diff oils for $3 a bottle, so grab a selection and get testing.

If you have never driven with a front spool. it will take some laps to get used to, because what it is doing is pulling the car through the corner. Once you are used to it, you can then enhance this effect by overdriveing the front tires. If you run on foams, you can cut them down 2mm compared to the rear, use old rubber on the front that has less of a diameter compared to the rear or change the front pully to be 1 tooth smaller. What this does is make the front pull the car through the corner, rather than the rear pushing it through the corner, meaning you can hold much more power on through the corner.
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:59 PM   #1554
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Any tricks to stopping the ballcups from popping off the ball studs when trying to adjust the links? I've tried screwing the links in and out of the ballcups a few times but they still seem to pop off when I'm trying to adjust the links.

Better to just replace the cups? If so what ones are recommended?

Thanks.
I'd recommend just changing over to Tamiya ballcups and be done with it.
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:02 PM   #1555
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First time running the S1 and first time ever running a touring car. Took 2nd in the B main which got me a bump to the A main. Took second in the A main, great car for $120.

Though I'd recommend swapping out the steering rack for the R1 rack, and running a kimbrough servo saver. I trashed the rack and blew out two servo horns before making the switch.

Car still has more to give I just need to get the gearing right.
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:06 PM   #1556
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First time running the S1 and first time ever running a touring car. Took 2nd in the B main which got me a bump to the A main. Took second in the A main, great car for $120.

Though I'd recommend swapping out the steering rack for the R1 rack, and running a kimbrough servo saver. I trashed the rack and blew out two servo horns before making the switch.

Car still has more to give I just need to get the gearing right.
Good job! My son didn't do too well with his R1 today. But he broke the front bumper base and one of the front body posts. Pretty sturdy car. It took several hard crashes to cause the damages. Luckily the c hubs and knuckles were OK.
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:13 PM   #1557
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Good job! My son didn't do too well with his R1 today. But he broke the front bumper base and one of the front body posts. Pretty sturdy car. It took several hard crashes to cause the damages. Luckily the c hubs and knuckles were OK.
Used to run a bit of 1/12 about 7 years ago and I've been running a lot of 2wd buggy lately so I'm sure thats helped me with TC. I was pretty surprised with my showing today, had some fun and that's what counts.
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Old 06-15-2013, 10:12 PM   #1558
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alright, hi all heres my first post to let people know how well my R1 is going here in NZ running in a completely different class, for the racing last Sunday which was the 9th of June i had an amazing and pretty successful day, there were 2 groups of 20 cars in each group, my heats went well in my group with qualifying 3rd for the amain, amain went fairly well i do not know where i came in it as positions weren't recorded, last race of the day was the all in with about 30 cars on track going round a small oval, me i done extremely well by winning the race and 10 laps ahead of the second place car , best to say damage i got though day was a snapped right rear shock shaft, 2 cracked rims and body was pretty ruff and falling apart haha
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Old 06-15-2013, 10:16 PM   #1559
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alright, hi all heres my first post to let people know how well my R1 is going here in NZ running in a completely different class, for the racing last Sunday which was the 9th of June i had an amazing and pretty successful day, there were 2 groups of 20 cars in each group, my heats went well in my group with qualifying 3rd for the amain, amain went fairly well i do not know where i came in it as positions weren't recorded, last race of the day was the all in with about 30 cars on track going round a small oval, me i done extremely well by winning the race and 10 laps ahead of the second place car , best to say damage i got though day was a snapped right rear shock shaft, 2 cracked rims and body was pretty ruff and falling apart haha
Well, that's certainly a setup you don't see every day, especially for the R1! Very cool
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Old 06-16-2013, 01:09 AM   #1560
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thanks, the r1 performs really nicely when most other cars use TT01's haha
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