jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Also try lighter Tube lube in the rear

avs

iTrader: (2)

if your inline layout moved the cg forward compared to the transverse layout, then it might make sense to remove droop front and rear to reduce the forward weight transfer in off power corners?

you didn't mention what you did with the side and front spring stiffness. It seems inline layouts tend to have softer side springs and possibly stiffer front springs. (but I have yet to be faster with a inline layout compared to transverse, so I may be full of _it.)

tim fry

iTrader: (1)

Front end is basically the same as I have always run it.

Ive got the rear fairly soft with blue sides and 7k damper fluid.

InspGadgt

Try less rear droop

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Can you post your entire setup


Thanks

tim fry

iTrader: (1)

Front
.50 springs
5 deg blocks
1 spacer in front 2 behind top arm
1 deg camber
Thick roll centre spacer
Top brace

Centre
White spring
30wt oil

Rear
7k fluid
Blue side springs just touching

Magenta front
Pink rear

It seemed as if it was fine until I let off power at the end of the sweeper and then it became lose. It was ok everywhere else.

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

That's a really soft setup for Pink rears. If you have yellow or "Greylows" Try that.

Do you get any build up of black gunk anywhere on the bottom of the chassis. If so you might be too soft in the springs and tubes to get the most out the tire traction.

Also ride height? For a Low traction track go up higher than normal helps with the weight transfer.

Also to smooth out the steering try double Pink fronts. With Magenta's I find they bite too hard sometimes which can make a simple corner hard to navigate

tim fry

iTrader: (1)

No noticeable marks on the chassis. We all tend to run that combo of compounds as we are running 10.5t. I might try double pink though as it might help.

Slapmaster6000

iTrader: (16)

Tim, blue sides on the inline should be the correct springs, whites for transverse. 7k in the tubes for inline strike me as a bit light, but it's certainly not going to cause "loose" at the end. 10.5 is pretty zippy and not to be underestimated. Two things might be happening: the magenta fronts maybe picking up grip as the run progresses and the pink rears could be getting some fuzz wrapped on them towards the end. Add both of these up equals a mess to drive. I have really fallen in love with the greene crc rears for mod with a magenta front. Start to finish, all the way down to the wheel, best combo I've been on to date. Don't forget to really round those side walls over!

You may find that transverse for 10.5 a bit more accommodating.

Brian

tobamiester

iTrader: (360)

Anyone have the part# for the longer front carbon top plate for the Xti ? Is it 3276 ?ordered the shorter one by mistake. And is it worth running ? Does it affect handling?
Thanks in advance

avink007

3276 is correct for running the short arms, 3278 is for long arms. It strengthens and helps alighn the front end. It will reduce steering a little bit though because it reduces flex in the front end. Its a good tuning part to have.

tobamiester

iTrader: (360)

Thanks, yeah I was a little concerned with loss of flex but I'll give it a try and see how it feels on my local track/layout.

ongbenghui

iTrader: (5)

hi,

does anyone got the manual for altered ego for download?

just wanna take a look before purchase.

thanks thanks

tobamiester

iTrader: (360)

Nope there isn't one. I just built my kit this week. You get a stock Xti manual and then the transverse instructions, and then have to sort of pull the two together. Its fairly straight forward

I took a ton of pictures during my build and was gonna do a quick blog post to help others. PM me if you have any questions.

ongbenghui

iTrader: (5)

Hi,

I am curious how does the servo mount works. Does the servo need to be in front and horn behind? Ie, servo weight is forward, vs the traditional servo behind, horn in front like every other 1/12? Any pics on that?